stratosg

Hi, try to remove the three torx screws at the bottom of the door. Then try to carefully remove the door card using some extra force as the screws are screwed over some plastic clips. Just be careful not to break the door card. In my 2003 Octavia I, worked without breaking the door card. But before that, try to remove the square plastic cover from the door handle from the outside of the door and see if you can grab with long pliers the wire that is attached to the handle. Sometimes this is the easy way to open a deadlocked door. If not, then try to remove the door card from the inside the car.

Hi there. Happy new year. No rear bumpers the same.

If it was me, I would go for a new aftermarket one. Unfortunately used catalytic converters comes in an unknown state and with no warranty if it is dead.

Indeed. I meant that these are the three easiest and most common.

If the red seat belt symbol is on while driving and wearing the seatbelt then the buckle needs to be fixed or replaced. It has a switch / contact in it that makes that issue, or the cable that goes underneath the seat to the buckle has a split. If the yellow airbag light is on then there are three possible causes. 1. The fuse is blown 2. The wire or the switch underneath the seat is broken, or even a split cable within driver's door bellow. 3. The steering column clockspring is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Hi there. No, no need for reprogramming. It's a straight fit in the new part job. Just keep in mind that you need a switch with the wide connector.

Check for blown fuse and then check for split cable within the seatbelt buckle. I had the same issue on our 2000 Renault Megane Coach. (Coupé).

I bet on broken wires within driver's door bellow on A pillar.

When I owned a Roomster 1.2 CBZB, a couple thousands of kilometres after had spark plugs changed at a dealership, happened the same to me. The car was on its original leads. Then I bought a set of BERU leads and a new set of NGK spark plugs and never had such an issue again until I sold the car about 100.000km later. Of course I did change the sparkplugs again after 60.000km. I am still thinking that the issue came up due to loose spark plug, not correctly tightened by the mechanic.

Rubber seals around body frame that supposed to seal the door and the frame of the car. They get hard due to the age and water manages to pass through. If they are ok, see under the car if the rubber bungs are missing.

Keep the two pieces joined using some duct or painter's tape at the front side. Then get some black tie wraps and try to melt them using a soldering iron or a lighter over the line formed where the pieces meet each other, at the back side. The one that you will not see when you place the item back to place. You may also try to use litlle metal bar pieces from a piece of scrapped wire. Grab one and hold it with a nose pliers and heat it red hot with a lighter. Then lay it in such way to touch both banks of the joint line and press it to get shoved into the plastic. Like stapling it. Repeat leaving a small gap between stitches until you cover the length of the damage. ------------ A trick for instant glue jobs. When using instant glue pour some baking soda on top of glue. This makes the glue rock solid.

When masking, fold the masking tape so not to create harsh lines between old and new paint that is PITA to remove. Also you may use a blending agent to spray over the edges, where new and old paint meets so to have a better blending result. Wear face mask, you do not want to inhale that stuff. Spraying from a distance of 10 to 15 cm from the panel. First coat is really light, second is a bit heavier and third even heavier. Watch out not to heavy to avoid runs. Base coat may need four coats as metallic paint does not cover very heavily. I am not a professional painter nor mechanic. I am an IT teacher who just loves cars and especially Skoda cars.

Do not scrap it. Fix it. Both peeling paint and rust can be fixed if you are a bit handy. For the peeling paint and top coat you will need some sand paper to sand it first. Go and get waterproof sand papers 600, 800, 1000 and start removing the peeling varnish (top coat). Rub carefully so not to reveal the bare metal. Then if you don't reveal the metal you will need 2k filling primer. Clean with degreaser the scuffed area and apply three coats of filling primer, following the drying period of 10 to 15 minutes between each coat. After drying the last coat sand it with 800 grit to remove the coarse feeling of it. After that clean the area with some rubbing alcohol in order to start painting the base colour. You will need 2k base coat (colour) and repeat painting in three coats as before. After third coat is dry clean the area with a tacking cloth. Finally apply three coats of 2k top coat (varnish) and you are ready. If you have orange feeling on your varnish, wait a week and then sand the area using a 1500 grit waterproof sand paper and then 2000 grit. Very lightly just to "brake" the orange peel. Then clean with rubbing alcohol and buff it with some buffing ointment. If you reveal the bare metal, then you have to apply three coats of 2k epoxy primer first and the follow the above steps. All these can be done using rattling cans. HB Body has really excellent and cheap products as concerning the primers and top coats. The colour can be done using the colour code of your car on a car paint seller. As for the rust and since it is not that severe to have holes needing cutting and welding the metal, you start with 80 grit dry sand paper and sand untill you clean the rust. If you cannot remove it totally, apply some rust converter (not rust remover) to convert rust to black healthy metal. Then follow the above steps. Of course you can apply putty where needed. After drying the putty sand it with 180 and 240 grit dry sand paper. There are plenty of videos in YouTube to take a look.

Good evening to all. I realize that my question might have been answered before, but I did not manage to find the info I seek using the search button. I assume I do something wrong with it. I also sometimes feel really thick, so please excuse my incompetence. (I also posted that to 'Ask a Tech' section) I have a Skoda Octavia MK1 1.8 20vt 4x4 estate with 197.000 km and I want to replace my gearbox and transfer oil, as well as rear differential oil. Can anyone please inform me about the gear oil types and the quantities that I will need? Thanks in advance, Stratos.

These are Xenon headlights, that's why

In that case you have to take it totally off both from the pipe and the engine and then put it in your mouth and blow or / suck air from her two edges. From one side you can blow and from the other you cannot. It is one way valve with a diaphragm in her. But i suggest you not to do so as it will probably brake apart as it is made from hard plastic that gets brittle by the time and then you will need a new one. They most often brake from pipe's side and keep in mind that at engine's side there is a tiny o-ring that does not come with the new pcv valve. As the pcv controls the air pressure within the engine, if your valve was erratic you would find moisture in oil's cap.

😯😯🥶🥶

May i ask what turbo brand did you use? By the way take a look around at the scrap yards to find a third brake light unit in a low price.

Well this seems to be the inner part of the light and I think that you have to follow @kentphil1's advice and follow the workshop's instructions. If there are no screws, I assume that you might have to warm the whole unit and try to open it gently and replace the faulty part. Then just clean the glue residues and apply some windshield glue or any other silicone alike glue. I just happened to replace the whole third brake light as a complete unit from a scrapped car and not partially. I am really sorry for my inconvenience. Stratos

Here are some photos I took for you.

On your boot lid at the corner there is another plastic bellows that is a wire passage. Check cables there too. Concerning the hazard lights switch. That switch affects the blinkers and hazard lights proper functioning. I think there is a slight possibility to affect your lock - unlock function. Try to remove it, clean it and put it back again.

Hi there. You need to open the boot lid and then carefully remove the top plastic panel (the one that is underneath your brake light). You just need to pry it. Then you will see that the third light is attached by clips. You need to push them in order to release the third brake light. You will also have to remove the electrical connector and the rear wiper tube from your third brake light. Fitting the new is the reverse order.

Driver's only. I had similar issues in all my Skoda cars through the years since 2002. All caused by broken wires within the rubber bellows at driver's door. A bit of soldering and problems solved.

Does your second key works as it should? If yes then your current fob somehow gave up its spirit. Does the led on the key fob blinks when you press the unlock button ? If yes then you might have some split cables are n driver's door wires within the plastic bellows. If it does not blink, then it somehow gave up its spirit. Both buttons have a microswitch underneath the cover. The easy and lucky fix is to open the fob and give it a shot with contact cleaning spray. I do not know how easy is to replace it as i think is welded on the electronic board of the key. Maybe an electronic technician can do it.

In LHD cars it is located at the left side of the engine bay and it drips on the plastic undertray cover, thus there ais never water dripping on the floor.