softscoop

I found exactly the same. All parts places even after looking at my VIN said the loom only had the ABS wire. I went on the parts diagrams and found the one that was actually fitted to the car - Both ABS and brake wear connector. 1k0927903ac

On VCDS you can't simply copy the coding, you have to go through and tick all of the same options. I suspect you'll have to do the same with OBD11

What was the reg? I have a feeling I've seen it around Lincolnshire

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It's rubber with gripper pads, really stops things like shopping bags sliding around.

I fitted this one to my estate. Would definitely recommend it. It fills the entire boot area. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392089502955 My car has the rails but I never use them so took all the bits off. The rails are still there but this is flexible enough to just go over them.

What bluetooth module have you fitted?

You can now get full colour MFA clocks. https://m.facebook.com/aRdTechnik http://colormfa.ru/en/

My old Octavia had exactly the same problem, the airbox screws rusted away. I used similar to the below from Wickes. As said they required cutting a new bit of thread into the plastic but they held fine and lasted the remaining 6 years I had the car.

That issue didn't affect the Octavia engines. As far as I'm aware the Octavia engine uses a chain driven oil pump, where as the ones with the issue uses a hex bar, which rounds off, causing said issue. Only the 2.0 TDI fitted to the posher cars like the Superb and the Passat are affected. That said, I'd be surprised there are many of those with the original oil pump drive still in place after all this time. No need to worry with an Octavia

Does this help? Chrome can auto-translate it and make it just about understandable. https://www.drive2.com/l/475465387685707868/

I've had my Superb a couple of months now. TDI CR170 DSG estate Elegance. Ever since I got it, it never got up to temperature. Even after 20+ miles at 60mph, the temperature gauge never got over 70 degrees. In town it would eventually creep up towards 90, but as soon as I was doing anything more than 40, it would start dropping back down again. I took it to a local garage who had the car for a few hours to diagnose. They diagnosed a stuck main thermosat, as the pipes were the same temp either side of the thermostat, even well before the car was up to temperature. The car is under warranty, and the used car dealer that I bought it from have paid for the work without any quibbles, as the garage had diagnosed it as faulty. This work was done last week, but even after changing the main thermostat, it's still not much better. If I am just driving normally on 60 roads, with air outside at 15c, after 15 miles or so the gauge isn't much above 60. Thrashing the car, it rises up and does reach 90. As soon as you let off and drive sedately again, it starts falling back down. After looking on here, I'm guessing the culprit is the thermostat for the DSG cooler - but how do I categorically prove it is? Understandably the dealer I bought it from doesn't just want to throw parts at it. I could just buy it and fit it myself, but as it's under warranty, it's not something that I really want to be doing.

Just to update this thread, the plastic push clips that fix the two trims to the top of the grill are : N90359101

No it's not legal. Those type of bulbs will give you an awful beam pattern and will not pass an MOT. Although they will appear brighter than H7 filament bulbs, the actual amount of light thrown a distance down the road will be substantially less. The only chance of any LED bulbs giving you a decent light output is if the LED is exactly the same size and place as the filament in a regular H7 bulb. With light coming from the wrong place in the bulb, it will not be focused on the reflector, and so will just be dazzling for other road users. Philips Ultinon bulbs are designed to mimic the light pattern of a regular H7 bulb, but even they are not road legal, as they are not ECE approved.

Sorted the problem. It needed a new bonnet latch. Something had broken inside, it would unlatch without any effort. Even without the cable attached. Cable was fine. I had to bust most of the plastic push rivet/clips on the trim on top of the grill. Does anyone know the right size to replace them?

To fold the mirrors, either turn the mirror knob to the fold symbol, or hold down the lock button on the remote when locking, and it will fold in. When you start the car they'll unfold.

Yes I think they were fitted on Fabia "2" and above on the pre-facelift https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202012177182401

Which headlights have you got? The mk2 Fabia came with reflector on the lower spec models, and projector lights on the higher spec models. Projectors can suffer massively over time with dirt build up and the projector bowl coating breaking down. If that's happened, no matter what bulbs you fit you will get poor light output.

I have seen this before on an Octavia, with the front lights being stuck on. Faulty BCM (body control module) was the cause.

If it's just the sensor, and you can get the wheel off and jack the car up safely, you can easily change them yourself. It's only one bolt that holds them in, but they tend to be very stuck in place. Plusgas or similar releasing agent is very handy for that sort of thing.

The sensor is not hard wired, it is a separate part. The wiring loom for each abs sensor can be replaced, and can be bought as a spare part from Skoda

I had exactly the same issue on my Octavia - electrical fault in circuit, and one of the wires to the ABS sensors had become damaged and broken the wire. Have a good look around the wheel arches at the wiring before thinking about replacing ABS sensors.

Driving my new to me 2011 Superb, only about 40mph, the bonnet popped up. Luckily it didn't fly open as the second catch caught it. Pulled over and could not get it to latch down. It would just pop back up every time. Couldn't see anything obvious with the latch. Didn't look like it was gunked up, but was hard to see at the side of the road and was getting dark. I had to drive gingerly home with it flapping on the second latch. Searching on here only seems to find where people can't get the bonnet open, not the opposite. I'll have a look in the morning, but in the meantime any ideas?