softscoop

Not daft but the car has been washed many times. I took a quick look by prising up the trim and it revealed a very crusty looking rubber strip. Couldn't get it all the way off without taking the door mirror off. I gave it a good clean since I could now get to all of it, not just the top bit that you can see when you drop the window, but didn't make a difference. I've now got some gummi pfledge to try to bring the rubber back.

Yes that should fit no problem.

I took this quick video to show what it's doing. Having taken a quick look at the chrome trim, it looks like it just clips in and out?

Since I bought my Superb earlier this year I've noticed a slightly annoying problem, and I'm not sure if it's normal to the Superb or not. When there is condensation or rain on the outside of the windows, dropping the front drivers and passenger window down and back up doesn't clear them. Only a tiny portion of the window near the mirror is cleared, the rest is still covered in condensation, and I can't see out. The passenger side is a bit better than the drivers side, but not by much. It's as if it's missing a rubber strip or something, as nothing feels like it's touching the glass on the outside. Looking down into the top of the door, it feels there is a felt type strip that's on the outside edge of the glass, but this seems to be pretty hard and crusty. I can't imagine that it's missing a bit of trim on both sides of the car?

Couldn't agree more. Going from 18 to 16" wheels is a massive upgrade in how the car feels on the road. At the end of the day the superb is a big barge for comfort, not a sports car. Why they thought 18 was ever a good idea I don't really know

Could be the speaker that has gone faulty. It's all disabled if the speaker doesn't work either. A diagnostic scan would confirm what the car thinks is at fault

You have two options really. A set of wheel trims to cover the entire wheel. A set of centre caps from a VW Caddy Given that you've only got 15" wheels you'll find a set of wheel trims much cheaper and easier to source.

To be fair the entire door might not be too expensive from your Skoda dealer, as they were an accessory part. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3t98688861bs-storage-compartment-cover-32293.html Part no 3T9 868 886 1BS

If you have an L&K then they will be factory parking sensors. Usually one of them has failed, and when one stops the entire system is disabled. First port of call is to check around each for a clicking sound as you've said.

That looks like you either have the bulb installed incorrectly, or have fitted the wrong bulb. I assume you got an H7 kit? Although there is a sharp cut off, the pattern of light is wrong, and will not provide much useable light on the road. When you look at a projector headlight output, either halogen or xenon, there should be a bright hotspot right at the top of the beam pattern, i.e. where it will shine furthest down the road. The projector is designed to focus the light when it's coming from the filament on the H7 bulb. An H7 HID should have the light source in the same place as the filament. When you fit an H7 kit, the cut off and light pattern should be exactly the same as with a filament bulb, only more light. If the bulb is installed wrong, the light source is in the wrong place for the optics, and it will be "out of focus" so to speak. You will still get a sharp cut-off line regardless as there is a metal barrier in place in the projector physically blocking the light.

What is your budget? The Yeti was available with the 2.0 TDI CR 170 engine. I have the same engine in my Superb and it doesn't hang about.

Nice find, I hadn't seen that one before. Shame it hasn't got the reg on the pictures. Amazing how they keep cropping up every now and then.

Hello from a fellow yellowbelly. Where in Lincs are you from? I'll keep an eye out

It's not normal behaviour at all, especially after such a short amount of time. Do you know what brand of clutch was fitted? Did you have any sort of warranty or guarantee of the work? It could be a number of things that could cause it: - Parts fitted were from a reputable brand but are simply faulty -A cheap ebay (Techniclutch) "remanufactured" clutch plate - Something has contaminated the friction surface of the clutch plate. Either way, I would be back to them to investigate this further.

I found the same when it came to this part. Mention a DSG thermostat to Skoda and they generally have no idea what you're on about. The official description of the part is "coolant regulator" - part no "1K0 121 113 A" https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2015-768/1/121-121055/ Part 15 on the below diagram

There are tools to connect the unit via serial and get the code straight off the unit. https://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/showthread.php/577285-RNS510-code-finder-app?highlight=CODE+FINDER

Found this one on autotrader. They're not the highest quality pics, but maybe the dealer would send you more. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202107305656035

I had exactly the same. It required a new catch. Once I had the old one off, I could see it was broken inside. The pin that runs through and holds one of the springs in place had sheared off. No amount of lubricant would ever solve that New catch fitted and all was well.

Nice swap. I also recently went from a 2005 Elegance 1.9 Octavia to a 90k mk2 superb Elegance 170. The only thing I miss from the Octavia is the bottle holder at the bottom of the doors.

The battery for the remote in the key will have gone flat. Easy enough to change the battery: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375246/Skoda-Octavia-05-2009.html?page=43#manual On cars with remote locking, when you open the door with the key in the door, if you don't turn on the ignition within 15 seconds it will sound the alarm. Page 46 on the owners manual https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375246/Skoda-Octavia-05-2009.html?page=47

There are few Lincolnshire folk on here. I'm in Gainsborough but often in Lincoln. I'll give you a wave if I spot you.

How often do you tow? Unless it's all the time I'd spend the extra money on the removable one. Your shins will thank you as with a fixed one you'll be forever bashing them on the towball when you use the boot.

All of the remaining lights, including the steering light are because of an abs fault, and won't go until the fault is fixed. The steering light will have gone on when the battery was disconnected. Turning the wheel left and right won't reset it as it also relies on the abs sensor data to do the calibration, which it can't do at the minute. If changing the sensor doesn't fix it, then have a good look at the wiring loom from the abs module to the sensor in the hub. It's not unknown for it to get broken and cause the same fault code.

Check your wheels are not getting hot after a run. A sticking brake calliper will cause poor MPG, but not show in any fault scan.

1K0927903J is for cars with xenon headlights, as it has the additional connector for the level sensor