Rory

I don't follow that - why would you lift off if you didn't need to slow? Sure, you're sub-conciously constantly adjusting how much you're pressing the gas pedal, but not coming right off it unless you want to slow down. Is that with normal cruise on? There's a long steep dual carriageway hill near our house and our Karoq does not attempt to control itself unless cruise (also don't have ACC) is on. Have to be careful because the dual carriageway ends at the botton of the hill so the speed limit changes to 60 and it's a favouite spot for a camera van to hang out! Even with cruise on it's not that good at holding the speed on the hill - our old diesel Tiguan was spot-on.

You're right, it does use fuel in coasting to keep the engine running but tickover uses miniscule amounts of fuel so I presume on balance someone has decided that coasting does saves fuel. I have to say I don't really like it - it does feel at times like the car is running away with itself. We used to have a diesel Tiguan and it was selectable on that but I never used it. I had a loan ID.3 for a few days and I loved the one-pedal driving - rarely had to touch the brakes. Against that, if you don't use the brakes they just go rusty! We used to have ex-police defensive driver trainers at work and they were very much (in manual cars) "gears to go, brakes to slow" drivers - they would pull you up if you used engine braking to slow the car. Wonder how smart alternators cope with this - they charge more when lifting off. Tiguan had that system and I assume Karoq does (most "modern" cars do). Maybe that's why the engine stays at idle rather than shutting off?

Our car was in for service today and I'd asked them to take another look at the knocking / chattering noise on low speed corners. It seems to do it all the time when we drive it so it seems completely obvious to me, but once again the dealer said they couldn't find it. A young service advisor came out with us and heard the noise (but it wasn't as obvious or repeatable as it usually is) and he did seem genuinely dismayed that they hadn't picked it up. He took their "most senior technician" out with him, then put the car on a lift but couldn't determine the fault. I said I thought top mount bearings were a common issue but they dismissed that. They seem to be focussed on lower arms / drop links (at first they said CV joints). I don't know, but it strikes me as unlikely that they would knock on a car with 4K miles (it's done 8K but they're same as when we picked the car up) and that whatever was making them knock wouldn't be apparent upon examination. They offered to have the car back but it's always a faff to get it off my wife for a day or two. I need to try harder to find the circumstances where you can reliably hear it - turning the tight right off the main road into our road it always does it with mutiple knocks, and turning into our drive. But I couldn't easily replicate it with the dealer. I mentioned earlier in the thread that in multi-storey car parks it basically does it the whole time while cornering for the ramps. I'm wondering now if it's doing it all the time but once above 20MPH or so then road noise drowns it out?

Picked the car up and there wasn't really much discussion - they were adamant a variable service had been done before so they just did an oil service this time. They did change the brake fluid FOC, and they also rotated the wheels which I'd mentioned as I expected the service to like a "wheels off" major service (although I don't believe the dealers do normally remove the wheels, I've used that on other VW Group cars to get the wheels rotated). They didn't charge for doing that either. Weirdly they did try and charge for the courtesy car insurance even though they'd taken a copy of my insurance cert. I suppose most "normal" owners don't know / care, but there's nothing other than the dealers own record that shows what was done on the first service and it now looks like it's had the wrong level of service this time. I bet if I'd been a paying customer they'd have absolutely insisted the car need the extended scope 2nd service. There was also a continuing palava over a chatter / knock from the front suspension but I'll continue that in a thread that already running. Todays investigation resulted in us driving off with the young lads phone in the car, which startled us when it rang!

I know I should learn my lesson, as we have SEAT, VW and now (two) Skoda's in the family, but why is VW Group servicing always such a battle? Took the Karoq in today. It's just over 2yrs old. Done 8500 miles (total). It's not asking for a service as it's set on variable, but the dealer we bought if from last summer said it would need servicing around now as they serviced it last June just before we bought it. It needs doing annually according to the used car service and warranty package. I called to book it and they denied it needed service, but booked it in anyway. I then got several emails from the dealer reminding me to book it in! Today they said it would just be an oil service. I said, hang on, it's the car's second service, shouldn't it have an extended inspection and pollen filter change? No they said, it had all that last time. Really, on its first service at 3K miles you changed the pollen filter? I've got some kind of print out of the service and it says "oil change service". At that a young lad who seemed to have some authority got involved and printed out their internal record and that says the car had a first variable service, which did include inspecton and pollen filter. Seems odd that the dealer did that, but it makes sense, however it's different to service record I was given. It also means the work at the annual services going forward and going to be out of sync with the schedule. I was also asked about having the brake fluid changed. Annoys the heck out of that it's a service item but not included in the service packages. When did the first change become required at 2yrs. "It's always been at 2yrs, sir". I know it hasn't, it only changed recently to bring it into line with EV servicing. I declined it, and the a/c service (the compressor was replaced a few mths ago - but is still audible). Over £200 to have both done, more than it used to cost to have your car serviced!

There's a couple of things going on with VW Group in the US - some cars (although I think it's just ID models) are being held pending a software fix to stop the dash and rear view camera screens blanking as that makes the vehicles illegal to use. There's also cars, I think more 'premium' VW brands, stuck at Customs as they've got some electronic part linked to allegations of forced labour in Xinjiang.

I would doubt the stop/start button issue is connected to the door lock. The door locks are known to be iffy.

Yes, it's supposed to do that. If you turn the ignition on it'll stop. Does it unlock the drivers door when the console button is pressed?

Oh - I was assuming you weren't in the UK!

Do you have Skoda Roadside Assistance in your country? In the UK sometimes they can help, although if a part needs to be changed they'll usually want us to go to the dealer.

That links back to my point months ago. With discount using CarWow etc, plus new car PCP contribution, I''d imagine brand new would be a similar price - but you'll be told leadtime is 6mths. So why are they registering cars that aren't even being used instead of making them available for new buyers?

Yes, had it from new. Dealer did ask if we'd had any work done on it - it hasn't, this is the first time it's been to a garage since we picked it up. Of course, dealer said they'd never seen anything like it but other daughter had a "miss-build" on her SEAT Ateca, which is built in the same factory as Karoq. Not sure which of the tubes is missing - not clear from technicians report. Hopefully it'll just be the rear one and maybe it can go in where the vent is. If it's the main one, then removing the console looks a chunky job.

Car went into the dealer today and they found that the pipe that runs from the airbox to rear vents is missing. Apparently they checked that by removing the rear vent and looking, so didn't need to remove the centre console at this point. Annoyingly the service advisor was adamant that they can't get the car in again until 5th July and that would be a waiting appt, even though this initial appt, with a courtesy car, had been made "just" 3 weeks ago. They reckon it can be done in an hour or so, which seems quick to me. As it happens, daughter doesn't works on Fridays so she can take the car in and wait - although service advisor was grumpy that she can't be there at 8.45 for a 9 o'clock appt due to taking her kids to school.

The mountings can somethimes be plastic welded back on - I shudder to think how much the headlamp unit will cost.

Yes - try and clean them up and then if you're still concerned ask the garage to put them on the MOT brake tester. It takes a lot to fail that.

Small Claims is nothing like that - pay a small fee and that's it. For this kind of dispute you could be asked to provide an independent technical report. Boundary disputes are well known for being off the scale in terms of costs. Small Claims outcomes can be pretty random but often they're won by default as the other party doesn't defend. You;d have to sue the supplying dealer though - so it's a bit of a nuclear option as it won't be feasible to ever use them again. I got very annoyed at Honda and the local dealer when a inner rear pad stuck on daughter's Jazz - particularly because she'd taken the car in due to the noise the acoustic wear indicator was making and they sent her away and said it was fine. Got absolutely no where with the dealer, dealer group or Honda. Honda where particualry hard faced, yet on a previous Jazz they'd agreed to replace the rear discs at 3yrs old due to them looking tatty as they rusted.

That might seem harsh on tyres but if you're doing low mileage the next thing that'll happen after rusty brakes is the garage will be wanting you to change the tyres due to cracking.

They could stop this by using discs that are heat treated - GM did it in the US after so many customer complaints. All you can do yourself is don't "baby" the brakes - whenever the opportunity arises and it's safe to do so, brake heavily, but ease off just before you stop. Don't do things like wash the car, hosing the life out of the wheels, then not use it for a week - I always take mine around the village to dry the brakes. The trouble is, once rust sets in it rubs away the pad and so you can never clean the disc so you can end up braking on a thin strip of shiny disc. The back of the disc is usually worse than the front.

It's odd how the screen is slightly different on ours to yours - I'd love to know the purpose of the fan speed buttons on ours. Other forums / models talk about them being "mode" buttons which limit the speed of the fan and maybe the power of the a/c. But they don't appear to do anything in practice. What happens if you move the slider on yours while the system in is in auto?

I assume that does something if you have 3 zone a/c (not sure if that’s even an option on Kamiq).

Here's the Kamiq HVAC screen: Daughter says it makes no odds which fan setting is used, it does its own thing. With the system in manual, the slider appears.

It's not a conviction - only a Court can convict you.

On our Kamiq the slider is only there in manual mode. In auto, it just has the three 'buttons' - low, medium & high. You can see on the Karoq picture that the slider isn't there - our Kamiq is the same, except I think that the three options are always on the screen (in auto) - on the Karoq you have to dab a fan icon to make the selector box appear. I'll get a picture of it next time the car is here.

Thanks for trying them - I was pretty sure I wasn't being dim, but you never know! I don't see it being flap related as there's no separate rear controls - I'm going with they've just forgotten to connect it up. There's a bung goes in the air-box if there's no rear vents so maybe that's been left in place. The fan profile thing is a new one on me - Kamiq isn't here at the moment but looked at out Karoq, and blow (excuse the pun) me, it's pretty well the same: Behind the window there's a fan symbol but it's not obvious that touching it would do anything. The Kamiq doesn't have that - just the three settings appear - and it doesn't say "A/C profile", there's just the three options.

Booked it in to local dealer. Bought it elsewhere but they were fine with that, and I wanted to get the car into their system. I booked our Karoq, which I did buy there, in for service first. I did a flap reset last night even though I didn't think it would make any difference, and it didn't. Rear floor vents are working. Must admit I didn't realise (it's daughter's car) how much of a faff it is going into the infortainment to do most things. And even then it's not immediately obvious what's happening with air flow direction. Daughter commented that the a/c indicator being orange for on is opposite of what you'd think, when everything else is white (and it's white in the separate heater panel). Compared to the picture above, the slider control for fan speed only appears in manual on our's. In auto there's a low, medium and high selection for the fan - why doesn't it just work "automatically"! There's no mention of it in the online handbook and as best I can gather it's a mode selection and it sets the max fan speed - how odd.