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I checked that the part number on the box matched the number on the filter. I think VAG mix and match parts on the assembly line depending upon supply, which is fine as long as you know? I'm not the one to criticize, I come from a family that used to put chip papers behind the panels in Allegros !

@Urrell want a filter?

This is useful, once you've allowed Google to translate; https://www.skoda-dily.cz/blog/jak-poznat-spravny-palivovy-filtr-pro-octavia-2-tdi-11.html And low and behold, this is the filter in my car at the moment https://www.skoda-dily.cz/nahradni-dil/1k0127177b-palivovy-filtr-tdi-de-13652.html So it would appear that I have a filter housing that's normally fitted to 1.9 or 2.0tdi engines.

@Urrell you have the same engine, have you had any similar problems with your 1.6tdi ?

@HeavyMetalRichyes, part numbers on the box match. The previous filter fits right onto the pipe on the lid and slides all the way up, the Bosch filter won't fit on at all. I've already coated the drive with diesel when putting the old filter back in with the new lid seal in place and firmly screwed down, I have no wish to add to that again.

There is a 2mm gap between the fuel filter housing and the lid, no matter what I do I can't push the lid down further. Lid? I am wondering whether I may have caused the problem when prising the lid off - but I don't think the lid is that flimsy. Could the refitted (original) lid seal be causing the problem? I have changed a dozen of these on previous VAG diesels and never had any problems, this is a puzzle

Further ... I've tried to put the old filter and seal back on the car and the top of the housing is now sitting about 2mm too high - I was VERY gentle when prising the top off, are they really soft or am I missing something?

Eurocarfarts have listed a Bosch 1 457 070 008 fuel filter for a 2012 Greenline 1.6tdi but it don't fit mister! The old filter has the green seal, the hole in the top of the Bosch filter is possibly 2mm in diameter too small, and this is pretty annoying when you're half way through a job. I can't see a part number or makers name on the old filter, can anyone recommend a part that will fit?

Not as simple as that, it depends on the spec level of your car. You'd do better calling a Skoda dealer and ordering the correct part for your registration number.

Given that some owners find the towing electrics already fitted behind the boot trim, Is it fair to say that the build code 1D0 (without towing attachment) actually means that the car doesn't have 'tow prep' fitted?

Just collected the car, the difference in the clutch pedal is night and day. No other issue reported, and an innocent "nope" when the question was asked. With my 'work head' on I couldn't understand why he's left all the seats in the back down, the boot carpet wedged up behind the parcel shelf, and 2 litres of GOMAN rearbox oil (?) on the bill. Still it now drives beautifully and that's all that matters.

My Greenline is in for a clutch today, I provided the Luk 3 piece clutch kit. My mechanic has called this morning telling me clutch kits for this car 'always' have a slave cylinder included? Is this the case?

I would say under normal circumstances this car has most of it's life ahead of it. What makes you think clutch, flywheel and gearbox are required?

I would expect a new clutch to be seen as routine maintenance, the wear and tear being linked to the type of life the car has had - mine came from London and has a dodgy clutch due to the amount of slow running, speed humps, congestion etc and dead arb links and bushes. There's no reason why a well maintained 2l TDI shouldn't manage mileage you would expect from a Starship

My 2007 Scout was very low, getting in from the pavement felt like sitting on the floor and that was with 16" wheels fitted. I'd advise anyone considering a Roomie to get a later model with the canbus 2.0, rather than the earlier canbus 1.6.

If anyone's interested https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/collections/skoda-body-parts/products/yeti-interior-door-arch-seal-left-rear

That thought occurred when I read your earlier post. On balance, I have no choice but to get a garage to fit a new clutch asap and then deal with whatever else they find.

Thank you, I shall have a look in the morning. One piece of good news is the lack of any debris on the end of the master cylinder piston when I looked today

I did not know that !

Now that is interesting as I've just been out checking the brake reservoir levels thinking the mechanism rather than the clutch itself is the issue ... I've never heard of this part can you give me an idea where this item is situated on a 1.6tdi motor please?

One of the family had questioned the clutch operation, so I went for a fairly long trip in the Greenline today to get it warmed up, set the parameters for a regen etc. After a few miles I noticed a scuffing rumbling that I first thought seemed to be at road speed, but then in town I noticed the pedal getting stiffer, and a clutch slip and a rattle from the engine bay in that last part of the pedal travel just as before its fully released. Clutch gives no sign of slipping at full throttle in 2nd, but roll on in 5th does seem a bit sluggish but I put that down to it being a 1.6tdi. My diagnosis = DMF, or clutch release. Any thoughts would be helpful (I know I'm going to need a 2nd job to pay for repairs)

Don't forget the E and S spec instrument cluster isn't maxidot and won't support this alteration. I've retrofitted maxidot and MFSW to my S spec.

Thanks, I was planning to change to factory tinted windows but I don't fancy messing with a bonded window - aftermarket tinted film is much easier to apply.

Does anyone know how the rear quarter lights are removed ? Thanks