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Both my 2WD Yetis have done this.

Can't say I was that keen to stick my beak in the top and take a deep breath if I'm honest ... Cost in UK is usually around £25-£35 depending where you buy, I then decanted to a pump up type sprayer - I did the job in 0.5 litre at a time as I had no idea what would happen !

I just removed the blower motor from below the dash after manipulating a few wires to make room.

The cleaning fluid is meant to be used with the DPF removed, it's this stuff; https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07ZDQ2J8B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title I poured half a litre through the top sensor hole on 2 occasions, left it there for 3 hours then took the car for a blast for 20 minutes holding the engine to the red line as much as traffic would allow. Afterwards the diff pressure figures were generally lower and it seemed to me to rev slightly better, but as I've said before I sold the car at this point so can't say what happened afterwards ... but we still see the car in the area, so I didn't kill it !

@J.R. The DPF cleaning posts related to my other old Yeti with the hateful CAYC TDI, I gambled on 5 litres of off-car DPF cleaning fluid being cheaper than an off car full clean, this car has never been used for short journeys and I want to stop the problem before it gets that bad. Unfortunately for this thread I sold that car earlier this year, but I can report that after a few treatments the differential pressure figures came down noticeably.

I think J.R's suggestion of a weekly blast is the most practical for my situation. I note those with a history of MI's suggesting exercise is good, sadly I have heart failure rather than blocked arteries so I can be really short of breath sat watching tv therefore any sustained physical stuff like cycling is off the cards for me. And whilst I like the idea of a Pure Electric stand on scooter until the issue with lithium batteries catching fire, and the insurance farce, are sorted who would buy one?

I love the Citigo, but if someone parks next to me I can't get in or out Oh, then there's the small matter of prising the Citigo's keys from SWMBO's hands

Nice idea and I'll admit I discussed it with colleagues, but seriously, that wouldn't end well !

@gumdrop It's not that kind of company, and is sometimes used by others during evening and weekends.

@Prezafab I never realised it was a category car until it was too late, I wouldn't have touched it with a barge pole

I know I'm killing the car, that's point of the post ... but those are the cards that have been dealt and for the moment I've got to suck it up - I'm looking to keep the old girl alive long enough to come up with a Plan B. I can't be the only TDI owner in this situation hence the request for experiences. There's no chance of walking, I have wellies, fluorescent jacket, hard hat, laptop, paperwork to carry daily down narrow roads with no pavements, not forgetting dark wet nights and a knackered heart to boot!

Ok, as a TDI own of 25 years I know full well it's really bad to do short journeys for any length of time, so please don't tell me what I already know. However ... I live 1 mile from work, I then use the 'job' car all day, and drive 1 mile home, and here's no change in sight for this arrangement. I don't want to sell the Yeti, and I don't really want to buy a small petrol shed to commute as I'll need a bigish car and that'll just get expensive. I'm what used to be described as 'no8' shape and don't fit in small cars. I've tried a diet of super diesel for a few months but all this does is cause regens every 100 miles. What do I use as an additive? Dipethane, Archoil? ... any sensible suggestions welcomed.

I simply missed the info on the checks I'd paid for, and on page 1 of the V5 - massive own goal.

My Greenline 1.6rdi was a category car, I forget which but it was the one for non structural damage. What a nightmare, from insurance quibbles to wheel alignment issues, trim not replaced correctly, bits of windscreen found everywhere up to 3 years later, never again.

@J.R. It's 2wd. The rear suspension arms were very poor, the car has been neglected in favour of my old hateful greenline 1.6tdi for some time. I thought about doing the job myself but when I put the car on the ramps to take stock I saw the very corroded bolts and decided discretion was the better part of valour, and let the garage do it with the hoists and power tools that I don't have on my drive! At the tracking I wasn't close enough to see too many details, just the reaction of the mechanics when the first reading was taken which was huge amusement - 6 effing degrees is what they were saying to each other. Sounds bad, but then the garage that did the work just fitted the parts that I supplied, they don't have tracking equipment.

Parts fitted, new nice MOT present I forgot the new rear end would require 4 wheel alignment until I drove the car 200 yards away from the garage. OMFG, the car leapt around the road like nothing I've experienced before. The alignment jonny showed me the read out on the screen showing 6 degrees out both sides ... technically that means nothing to me, apparently it's a lot. 15 minutes later, £100 poorer and with a feeling I've just had my bottom smacked, but the car is now driving perfectly so I'm not THAT bothered.

Search VW retrofit forums, you can mess with these as much as your pockets will allow.

@Jimmenyjm I would get a beer and sit and read the threads on this forum, you can also look for someone with VCDS near you who would be willing to scan your car; https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

What error code is the car showing?

@Dublin This sounds like a case of the VW tdi warm start problem (google it). Usually .... it turned out to be a duff battery as the car won't start until (from memory) 300rpm is achieved by the starter. Under this figure the ECU doesn't put fuel in the engine, so it won't start whatever you do with it! I'd check the state of your battery in the first instance, and put a quality diagnostic on the car to see what else is going on.

Change of heart, I can't bring myself to scrap the old girl, I'd rather get an MOT and sell it to someone who can get a few more years out of it. Parts for the MOT came to £300 with labour likely to be £500+, a sale in the current climate should cover my costs and help towards something else.

@TruckbusUK It's not been papered, and washed certainly since I've had it yearly at best. The car has spent it's entire life in the rural community, I've had it the last 5 years and it's in and out of farmyards across the area daily.

@Ootohere Seeing as there are hundreds of Briskoda members that view these pages I was hoping that one or more may have scrapped a car recently and can say whether which of the many apps are reputable and those to avoid.

@TruckbusUK MOT fail; Rear caliper seized Both rear suspension arms seriously corroded and weakened Front suspension arms both sides, bushes and ball joints And bubbling under; Clutch and flywheel Very rusty exhaust Both front passenger doors rusty and in holes in the corners All four wheel arches have tin worm Regens every 100 miles @Ootohere Probably not, who would want it??

So the time has come to scrap my 2010 Yeti S 2.0tdi, the MOT fail has confirmed our worst thoughts that the old girl's beyond economical repair. This is a new experience for me, does anyone have any advice or any pitfalls to avoid?