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My RNS510B started did this, it would eventually work out the error on longer journeys however it was the start of the end for the unit which totally failed a short time later.

I can't even get a DAB signal, let along a mobile data signal strong enough to stream music!

I have an old RNS310 that has 64gb of music in mp3 format that works well enough in an S spec car with OEM speakers! ... anyway, shouldn't most of our attention be on the road ahead ?

Not sure I'm bothered about those performance upgrades anymore, I'd rather have MFSW, armrest box and an RCD360

So, after getting down on my hands and knees with a torch the result for my 2wd 110hp 2.0tdi with 'ordinary' rather than GTI brake size is .... (drumroll) 3 bolts

A change of instruments is nothing to worry about, your local VAG retro guy will sort that in no time. Just source a set that suit, the swap and coding usually takes about 10 mins (done it on several VAG cars in the past) I'm in the process of replacing the S spec clocks on my 2010 for the higher spec version with vehicle outline and more,menus.

So is there a rule of thumb here, for example - 2wd = 3 bolts, 4wd = 4 bolts?

Funny you should say that ...

Thanks, I'll look up the build code.

2010 Yeti S with CFHA - I need to change the front wheel bearing. Searches of various parts catalogues give differing results, so can anyone tell me whether this part is fixed in place by 3 or 4 bolts? Thanks

There is a VW repair kit to fix the black 'ECU' wire that you need - there are YouTube videos out there for Golf's. It's a right fiddle, scuttle, wiper mechanism etc needs to come out, and in my opinion it's just not worth the hassle.

We had our old 1.9tdi Roomie Scout remapped and it made a huge difference. Never bothered about economy, I was having too much fun

To be honest I have had some pretty strange errors over the years with VAG diesels, and some strange cures (brake switch for a flashing glow plug!) and I'll check anything once! My 1.6tdi is now showing a flashing glow plug about 10 seconds after starting from cold, but boosts as normal ! If anyone wants to check their o2 sensor (not had time to do mine yet)

Discussed this with a mechanic friend the other day, and the subject moved to the myriad of sensors that have such an effect on performance/fuel economy etc - he then suggested I look at the o2 sensor that sits by the DPF as he had cured strange running issues by 'resetting' the sensor? This is beyond me, anyone have any thoughts?

SKODA FABIA 5J REAR BOOT LOCK CATCH MECHANISM 2007+ 5J0827501B CATCH HOOK This is a year old link and may not be active, but it gives the part number. It was £35.

Yes mine rattles like mad as it only has 2 bungs in it! (£8 each on eBay) I did think of this but the noise changes and goes when the revs rise, this is more reminiscent of the racket nasty old french diesels used to make in the mornings - but without the smoke, and it happens even when the car is warmed up.

There might be something in this, when ignition is turned off there are a series of blow off noises. Do you mean the valve that sits to the right of the ASV as you look at the engine? It has a small white/grey disc on the top.

Cambelt was changed 4 years ago according to the paperwork, I've noticed it since I have been doing more local driving - trickling through town, and when pulling out of junctions (not grand prix stuff) the revs will hunt down to tickover and even below and that's when I notice it.

The version I know absolutely nothing about

Which satnav unit do you have? There's several.

I was thinking it was a turbo vanes, or fuel pump issue but that's interesting. Thanks I'll have a look.

That nasty diesel rattle that some engines produce at low revs, low load - next door's old van does it, the D4D Yaris in the family also does it. Never had a VAG tdi make this horrible noise before.

I think it's working ok. I don't use it much.

Can someone explain why my 1.6tdi Greenline pinks just above tickover when under load? It drives normally, and boosts normally after several applications of Archoil 6400d and size 11's but this one aspect remains.

As a final write off - ECP exchanged the part and will apparently amend their online shop to show that there are several filters that may fit. The filter housing lid was a s.o.b. to refit, eventually I used 6" of soft wood and a rubber mallet and gently tapped it into place tapping alternately at 90 degrees until it sat correctly. Priming was not easy, even with a full housing the air lock stopped the car starting. I'm lucky enough to live next door to an AA patrolman who has an amazing toolkit, he removed the return feed and bled the air out but even that wasn't straightforward as the car refused to prime until the key was removed and the car locked. I heard the pump briefly activate when the drivers door was opened - I tried again with the filler cap removed and only then would the pump prime fully and the car finally started. I can't believe the drama involved in a simple fuel filter change, I've done loads before with no problems. Bloody garage can do the next change!