varooom

There are a few different threads on here for this fault. Option one was fuse removal or battery off car for a bit, and it started working. Other someone ripped the unit apart, naturally it looked like a grenade had gone off inside. Link and top was capturing the CD's between 2 old credit cards and "pulling" them out as a sandwich. Pick one that suits you, and report back for more options if needed.

Welcome 🤗

It would be in the best interests of the OP to return to the thread with Engine Code and all other questions answered. @Warrior193 just a single vacuum line down will stop turbo from working, and the turbo actuator (external) that controls the vanes also could be stuck in one position, making it run like a bag of spanners. I've had a vacuum line left off by mechanic in the past, and and turbo actuator fail (diaphragm splits)

I would expect OBD11 to be able to adjust, though never used tool to know for sure. If no luck soon (yourself or replies) then best contact OBD11 support and let them know what you did and what's happened since, maybe the can assist?

Not sure about the tool you are using, some of the non-dealer tools can do some bad thing's. VCDS does have a reboot module option after coding iirc, that tool you are using maybe not. You would expect the coding to "stick" right away. Incidentally, did you have to use a login code to allow you to change parameters, didn't see that in your steps.

@timster What does it do when you set it back to 0ms delay?

One begins with an A, other a B And numerically 32. Jokes aside, I am sure if we tag @pab567 he can answer you other question about coding in the parts.

Better than getting your fingers pinched in the end? Like a crab's claw! Car looking good 👍

I have 0253 on mine and it's fine. I can move sound to any of the 4 speaker's in isolation, and each has equal loudness. Bass and treble are all correct.

The system only updates in every 100km* VCDS will tell you which you are on currently if you interrogate instrument cluster. *Not sure if the adjust to every 100 miles for UK measurements (I know it should increment in 100's)

I will check in a bit on ETKA to see if original part has been "dropped" that usually tells you what you need to know. One switch was replaced twice, other possible fitted seems more reliable. Unsure which you have.

On the fence with my old unlimited VCDS myself, I can scan my car ok, but daughter has 18 plate Audi Q2, so comms are an issue of course.

Still might not be a control module, but best to start reaching out to some VCDS members and see if you can get plugged in and full scan. You will probably need Hex-net v2 as your car is newer, so pay attention to the kit people have.

I think you missed my question. What car: Skoda? Model: Yeti? Year: 2017? Need this to locate information to find diagram(s)

I guess the manual switch in the roof liner doesn't do anything at all, no matter the position.

Check your V5 registration document

Yes, VAG talk in km, here is the top part of the picture... I still cannot believe that you could get 50,000 km from the oil in a diesel, not sure I would want that myself

I will PM you MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T in next few minutes

This example chart says all we should need to know Red line, short jouneys are bad, like really bad for oil life

The instructions are fairly similar for removing, but there's minor differences for basic vs camera/rain sensor types. There's no mention of the USB connector here, so I can only assume this is correct location. Removal is fairly simple, clips basically (take it slow!)

25nm is correct for CAXA

Lots of potential causes, wiring issue or a control module is possibly loosing the plot. Does your dash normally show which door is open when you open it? If yes, test each door (and boot) one at a time to see if it shows on dash. If you can get someone with VCDS or VCP to scan for any short to earth fault and the like. The forum has the list of users with tools in map or list format.

@Baltazar This sounds more like a hardware issue, internal amplifier dying or a crossover in rear speakers (if that is what the frequency splitter is called)

Take this as you will, from maintenance manual. Hopefully someone with facelift Octavia III and LED can confirm.

Welcome 🤗