varooom

To verify that it is correct, as you did mention engine was replaced.

I could be wrong, as it's not clear which radio this is for on the car... But the Radio in this wiring diagram has to talk to J412 a mobile telephone control unit, and then there appears to be a bluetooth aerial that is also fitted. As I say, unsure that you need these, but it could be your missing puzzle piece. J412 = 5J0 035 729 B A how to guide, not Skoda... but to give you the overall picture of what might be involved. https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=44094.0

Try these images, see if they make any sense to you, this one seems to head to the rear vents

Yeah this is not the "full" process, 1st image for overview, 2nd a little closer to subject. But missing some pages for the entire process. So now at least you have a choice 3 (DIY) to add to your list, and you will have to let us know which one you go with. Have to speak up if you need some additional details if you decide to tackle it. Choice 4 is a garage visit and open wallet surgery.

It will only have a fuse if that equipment is fitted, that's for electric tailgate Edit: Fuse 50 as assigned in the owner manual equates to SC50 as it is written in wiring diagrams, and yes a 30Amp fuse would be fitted if applicable for clarity.

Here is the official way, could be a few hours work if you don't wish to drill things or have the car smelling of fairy.

SC50 is a nice little red herring

Earth points to check over You can also check your V5 document to let us know your Engine Code, that can assist in locating things to look at. I think you mentioned your fuel pump was screeching or something?

At a basic guess you might be able to check all the earthing points, starting with the most basic. A break in a fuse that "closes" when cooler, so worth checking those out in the engine bay where it's toasty. Not a mechanic, but these are some of the nice free/cheap things you can check.

I have heard of this fault before, and like usual no fault code is stored. And yes you are right, seatbelt/take your phone etc are all of the same ilk, information messages that are not deemed a fault.

I think the issue with this not being logged is that it's not seen as a fault, more a "remind you to do XYZ" information message. - Think of a seatbelt warning, message on screen, bong but no fault code flagged for such an event. So on your screen you see Error: workshop! Only leave vehicle in Position P and the car is none the wiser as for it being a fault. I guess for some they may get a fault flagged, if the parameters it checks come into play. What the parameters are not clear to us. I have also heard of rough running engines with no fault codes, get an ECU software update and then loads of fault codes appear as if by magic. YMMV

Simple is to remove shoes and give him a soft toy if he hasn't already got something. Socks won't damage door card/back of seats. Not always the most convenient of course, but adds a little bit to getting in and out process. If you do need some protection, I am sure there's a product out there if not.

Not surprised in the least by the last 2 post's at all. Stick to your guns, and hopefully the match you lit under their a7se will do the trick.

They may have updated the OCU unit, this is store for user profile and esim. It's not clear what they did, but they didn't apply SW1896 that's clear.

Multimedia Interface. I guess they didn't actually apply current software after all for it.

True @Breezy_Pete but for certain it's something they need to fix. Hopefully all goes well with the phone call.

Ah so still a work in progress towards 1896 then. At least the panel version was right. Kinda weird they did a software update, was it for the MMI? I can only assume it was for ECU or another module.

Yes they should fix this for sure, my car and others can show on the display the boot being open, so definitely looking like we have our candidate. Give them a bell now explaining your findings and tests, like opening doors and seeing it reflected on dash, but boot is no dice.

Well does seem to point towards the little micro switch inside the boot locking mechanism if memory serves correct. The poor car cannot determine boot open/closed and apply voltage to the light's. Hopefully someone else can come along and confirm that could be the logical case shortly.

Sadly more of an armchair mechanic, that reads a fair few tech documents and pays attention "in class" I know there is a certain resistance value range that they should be within, a tolerance, outside of this spec and you have troubles. Odds are the auto electrician has it spot on about the fault. Coding wouldn't cause a fault, as I said earlier I believe, it's about the characteristics of each individual injector's calibration that should be written on each. It allows the ECU to modify injection quantity to make it run smoothly.

You may wish to check in the menu's for version information, 2088 is not a version I know of.

Getting closer, fingers crossed for you

We await your findings, popcorn is ready to eat almost here 😄

Ok, will await your testing later on when you see if the dash lights up to know if boot opens/other doors.

Well that's a result then for you, now we can eliminate fault with headlight washer. Just to begin looking at other motor.