varooom

Yeah we was responding at the same time @TheClient 🤝 If you look towards the end https://youtu.be/hAou90S_R-Y?t=215 3m 35s that shows the Developer menu you need VCDS for

Welcome to the forum, that should be Amundsen, and you can update the firmware to 0369. But the features you are asking to activate, are already inside your firmware. There are two ways to activate the features, at a dealer they can apply codes to activate these items, at your expense. Or you can use a free tool to hack your system yourself, at your own risk. The tool is normally fine to use, and has been used by many to activate. To do the free option, you must have VCDS or similar tool to enable developer menu in the radio, otherwise you cannot do the free method.

Sounds like a cracking car, enjoying every minute of it hopefully 🤝

Hello Rob, I think a lot of people land here for firmware updates... see you soon 😄

Welcome Steve, glad the forum was able to help you DIY your car 🤝

Hello again Igor, you chose a nice car to drive with the Superb

Don't buy this headlight, but use it to look at images of what you are looking for on the back, you can see the ballast pack clear as day 🤝 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204192086753

@kornatsen I have sent you a firmware to check, please try to open your engineering menu to view your Software Train, to do this, press and hold down your Menu/Setup button for about 10 seconds to enter the menu. When in here please look for your Software Train (it will look like image above) MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P03xxT just make sure it is in this format. I also sent you link to ROW3 maps and link to our forum post via PM. @mofo999 I have also sent you a firmware for you to load on, 0480 as you indeed know. Good luck to you both

Hello again Carl, As mentioned by @tootthey should really be able to sort this themselves, but I agree with @MATT0693that it seems they are firing parts at the car. I will give them the glow plugs, but the DPF sensor shouldn't have been replaced, unless it was given off clearly duff readings (max is 45g, and we had someone recently reading 650g) My own car is a newer 1.6TDI engine, at roughly 145,000 miles and no fault codes. It does however want to regen all the time, it's driven once a week, and the DPF regen won't stop until it drops to about 5.5g measured. Yours reading 9g, albeit a momentary reading at that time, means it will want to complete the cycle. The one thing this garage could do is live data logging of soot levels whilst driving.

Bug fixes, these generally don't add new features.

Welcome to the forum, you can have update to version 0480 via PM

I use a multimeter to show the SOC before I touch car/ignition, it seems to agree with the car reported voltages roughly (need to verify) I have left the car a week, it never seems to go below 60% SOC. The Terminal 30 Voltage at least in VCDS = Battery Voltage reported, so I just log Battery Voltage for the graph. I go for an hour roughly each week with son for driving lesson, and checked the other week how many Watts were reported, so know that 400-500W is the baseline. It is amazing how many control modules munch power, there are some rough values here and there in some SSP's, it's an eye opener. After a long drive it was around 500W, so when it read 400W, I knew it was probably happy with the battery SOC. If you take the say 900W, take off 400W if we assume that is baseline, then that leaves 500W being used to charge, at 14.7V, so a rough 35Amp charge, again math's could be wrong. How much of the 400W "baseline" is being used to trickle charge the battery, or indeed maybe no charging was taking place... hard to say I think (at least for me!) Anyhow, I find it fascinating, and happy to go experiment and grab data. IIRC at almost idle, the Alternator can output some serious power, I put on heated screens both front and rear to reach 2000W from it, and I can make it run at 2800W with heated seats on also. Idle barely increases, maybe another 50rpm? Edit: Forgot to add a quick picture of the raw values, sorry that VCDS has 3x time columns, was 12.3V on multimeter, and drops to 12.0V when you turn ignition to position II

Agree 1 Million percent, if they recalled the car's to get a wave of updates done, it would help so many. SOS errors Infotainment Digital dash need bring up to a decent standard Insert your flying pig image here @toot

Best of luck 🤞

That's the latest for the system.

Blimey, they are hard work these dealers sometimes. Let's hope you can get it sorted. I do actually have the update if you give up with them, and all else fails for 1896.

Try to input your VIN here and download if possible the "offline" database, this will need putting on a USB stick IIRC, and leaving for a day/two to load in background. https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

Sounds like you need a dash software update when it goes back?

No, that's latest as far as I can see.

I did an expermint today, it was inspired by @J.R. doing some rough calculations on putting back the charge into the battery. Car had been left for a few days, measured Voltage on meter was 12.3V at the terminals (60% State of Charge.) So got in the car and fired up VCDS logging, and set about an experiment. Alternator = 180Amp, temperature was 8°C, no additional load was added (lights/heated seat/rear or front window) just the climate control and infotainment was running (no volume) In the logs, with ignition on, it dropped down to 12.0V to be expected as the climate control will be on, and a fair few control modules/fuel pump etc are being prepared. Cranked engine, and it drops to 10.0V momentarily, before settling higher. You can see smart charging doing it's thing here in the steps, and this is all done at idle rpm. It took less than 3 minutes to replace the power it used initially, and raise the SOC. Had I been driving the car, this time would probably been shorter, but not that long at all.

There's quite a size difference from 278mm to 353mm, probably too big for the tray itself I'd say. Not sure why you would need such a beast for smaller engine's.

The part was dropped for a replacement, doesn't mean that the old part number won't work. As you have replaced it, odds are it could be a wiring fault, hence @Breezy_Pete advice about a multimeter.

Yes I can send you an update in a few minutes.

Not sure if you checked out the above 1896 link above, on page 6 onwards you will see plenty of people with 1803 that you have, they all needed to go in for update to 1896, then OTA updates should finally work. They need to look up TPI2065556 as it relates to your specific firmware and a metric ton of fault's.

Welcome to the forum 🤝