sepulchrave

If your turbo is going to fail then remapping it will simply accelerate that failure. The clutch and flywheel are a far more significant concern at that mileage, a remap is likely to get the old clutch slipping so you should definitely get a torque limited remap unless you plan on replacing the clutch and flywheel anyway.

I give up, I'm not saying it's the pump because that might be expensive and I'm tired of the constant arguments. But it's the pump* *mike drop

In most cases where the pump is faulty it is the PAS ECU itself which has failed and it is the failure to respond to the instrument ECU request for status via the CAN bus which sets the flag for the warning lamp on the dash. So the chances are that it will not be possible to communicate with the PAS system which is an incredibly simple piece of equipment, basically just a brushless DC motor speed controller regulated by the output from a hall effect sensor, the fuse probably cracked due to heat damage caused by a malfunctioning pump unit.

Except I have direct experience of this problem and ended up replacing the pump with a secondhand unit which resolved the issue permanently. If the OP is saying that the steering fault is fixed but the lamp remains lit then there must be an additional underlying fault, caused either by the sensor or the pump unit since there are no other components in the PAS system.

If you read a little further up, the OP disco'd the battery which would normally reset the ECU, also the fault remains intermittent AFTER replacing the fuse which suggests that the pump unit has failed. Perhaps you can suggest another solution?

The most likely cure will be replacement of the entire pump assembly, it's a sealed unit and cannot be repaired, a faulty angle sensor would not put the warning lamp on until the steering is moved, it also would not produce intermittent symptoms and in any event the pump would run continuously in reduced assistance mode. You can try a secondhand pump but these are getting pretty old now and it may not last long.

Make sure you're sitting down when they tell you the price though.

Fitting harder pad material will mitigate fade and changing your brake fluid also helps, pretty discs are basically RICE mods.

I really wouldn't bother, it's a lot of aggro for no reason, you'll end up with a worse handbrake and the discs will rot out through lack of use.

You don't need shorter droplinks unless you really slam it. It sounds like one of your springs is not correctly seated.

You could increase the fuel pressure slightly by changing the FPR for an adjustable unit.

A few millilitres of old fluid will remain undisturbed in the ABS block, in the big scheme of things it's a tiny and meaningless amount, only OCD types would worry about it since you're replacing 99% of that old fluid in the system.

You don't need to bleed the ABS block unless it gulped air, just push the fresh juice through the system, once it runs clear from each caliper then it's job done.

You need to change it, it sounds like an internal seal has failed, probably due to wear and tear and age.

That's because we ignored your crying so you kept trying.

Get under the car and give each driveshaft a good shake, it should be obvious which joint is loose.

Definitely the CV joint, since it's hidden under a rubber boot looking at it tells you nothing at all. If its clicking then it needs replacing.

Check the non return valve on the servo vacuum line, I'm guessing it's sticking.

It doesn't matter.

Yes, you fitted it too tight, you need to remove the pads and wind the piston all the way back in then refit it and allow the mechanism to adjust itself during use.

Yes, yes and yes. Did you actually read my post?

You'll have to take it off and check that the piston is fully wound back before trying again, if it still doesn't move then send it back.

It won't cause an issue but it does sound like it won't last long as a fix, it's temporary at best.

Colour matching your existing seats is basically impossible so you're being quoted for replacing the whole lot, to do this they have to use an entire cowhide irrespective of where it comes from. They can't just grab a random offcut to make you some doorcards. You need to be realistic, either buy a complete secondhand leather interior or get your existing interior reconditioned if you can't afford the whole job.

If your car has factory leather what's wrong with your door cards?