sepulchrave

I would expect the turbo and valve stem seals to both be leaking slightly at the age and mileage of your engine, replacing these would undoubtedly reduce oil consumption without having to rebuild the engine, you should also ensure the PCV system is clean and working perfectly as higher crankcase pressures increase oil consumption dramatically. Your oil consumption is therefore likely to be a manifestation of many minor faults rather than one major fault.

The reason the revs drop when you press the clutch is that there is a switch on the clutch pedal and the ECU drops the revs to unload the gearbox so you can select a gear easier, most modern vehicles do it.

Replace the oil pressure sensor, failure is common and a new one is cheap, you can get rid of the coolant level lamp by shorting the tank sensor plug contacts together.

I have a 2.0 and it already has the 288mm brakes as standard, mine is polybushed and running a full Bilstein B12 suspension kit with a Whiteline RARB so it stops and handles, the gearbox ratios are not ideal but the biggest problem is the tiny clutch, it can barely hold the torque and there's no room in the low profile bellhousing for a beefier item. Other than that it's a proper hot hatch for no money.

It's the sensor, don't bother tearing the car apart to top up fluid that isn't leaking, a low fluid level doesn't put the warning lamp on and you have a definitive fault code, the sensor is much cheaper than the pump, take it to a different garage.

I'm not saying it can't happen, but in ten years on this forum I don't recall seeing a single thread where it had happened. Any head gasket will blow if an engine is allowed to overheat badly enough by a mindless driver ignoring the temperature gauge and continuing to use the car.

1.4 TDI doesn't blow head gaskets so it's probably leak stopper as mentioned, just keep an eye on the level, it may not look very nice but it's not doing any harm so I'd leave it alone until you know the car better.

Any fault that is reported as a manifold absolute pressure issue by the ECU is almost ALWAYS an air leak and almost NEVER the MAP sensor.

That's because a damaged reluctor can damage a new sensor if they touch due to a collapsed wheel bearing.

Mark 2 is mechanically the same, just a different body shell and interior, it's still a Polo 9N under the skin.

Yes, the code needs clearing.

Try the wanted ad section.

True, YW.

Pretty much, unless the cooling system is not airtight because of a leak, it's perfectly possible to have an over pressurised system when the engine is running, that then causes a leak in a weak spot by cracking the tank or bursting the radiator or a hose.

In a word, no. BMW PCD 5 x 120 Skoda PCD 5 x 100 They weren't cheap if they're useless 😎

Even easier, just use the double sided sticky foam tape, then you can block the holes to keep the water out. Modern adhesives means there's no need for 1970's technology.

There will be no long term implications since the valves did not hit the pistons.

Nah, just clear all the codes to reset the dynamic map and forget about it.

Yes you should do it, it isn't generally necessary on petrol engines but the service advice is based on a 10 year/100k lifespan so...

You should use whoever is riding shotgun as your cupholder!

It sounds like they've wound the boost up slightly too much and the ECU is flagging it as overboosting.

It could be a while, he's in pretty deep denial about the HGF, he has to waste a lot of time and money trying everything else first.

Before you decide to pursue this fault please check that your ABS system is actually working normally, if it is working then you should just leave it alone and ignore VCDS.

Oh dear, you need a new CHRA cartridge fitted, that turbo is toast.

A set of combination spanners size 8 - 19mm will cover most of the bases, much more useful than a socket set for occasional use, even better if they're the ratcheting type. You'll also need Torx bits and regular screwdriver bits which you can buy in a set. A brake caliper windback tool if you're going to replace brake pads yourself and a pair of axle stands to rest the car on once you've jacked it up using the standard jack. Additional tools as required.