travs

If it was your tuner then they should be taking responsibility for that advice; if it’s someone else, then I would run it past Revo and see what they say. There’s a fair amount on t’internet that classically divides opinion - best get it from the tuner themselves.

No steering wheel implies the rear rather than front wheels. Have you had any work done?

I think this is one of those systems that relies on the voltage/resistance as a benchmark as to whether the bulb has blown. LEDs draw so little current that the car thinks the bulb has blown. They do LED bulbs with resistor packs on to fool the car in thinking the bulb is a filament bulb. Which version did you put in?

Fair point. They worked as indicators all fine, just looked a bit odd.

Copper grease is old school wise (my mechanic father always used to do the same) but the torque settings I think are meant to be a dry bolt so on the face/spigot is good but on the threads isn’t the thing to do any more buddy.

Ha - it’s a good reminder though; I’ll need to get my winters out very soon. I have some Carpro CQuartz leftover so probably worth me doing that before they go on the car.

Standard Bosch or NGK are fine tbh

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535987-ota-update-stopped-working-any-ideas-how-to-fix-it/#comment-5978836 Here you go - my links and post at the end should hopefully explain it all but do come back if you’re not sure!

You just need to go to 308 between. Will post a link to another thread with everything in…

Saw a Mk7 Golf with rear indicators that flashed differently; inner half, outer half. Like a section dynamic style. Not sure whether I liked it or not tbh

I think that’s only been mentioned on earlier versions like v156. I’ve got paid-for services and never had any interruption when I updated. The Dealer had updated from v270 to v306. I’ve done 308, 330, 332 myself with these files and nothing missing or errors.

Here you go chaps @chrisgreen @SteveMcK This is my ftp site where I got 308, 330 and 332 (saved them in case mibsolution went down again). Linkety-link Download each one, and unzip onto a USB-C memory stick (USB-A if you have the alternative plug in the armrest storage). It only needs to be 8Gb. In case you're not sure: Plug into USB port, then hold Menu button until it asks to update software - it'll reboot into Engineering Mode (black screen with small red font) and its pretty logical from there. All touchscreen still and some things you may need to tap twice. Doesn't take very long. Ideally plug a battery charger in but if the battery's good and its had a decent run to be nicely charged then that'll be all you need.

Here you go - this is my ftp site where I got 308, 330 and 332. If your boss is adamant about 330 then go for it, but 332 is the latest we're aware of. Linkety-link Download each one, and unzip onto a USB-C memory stick (USB-A if you have the alternative plug in the armrest storage). It only needs to be 8Gb. Plug into USB port, then hold Menu button until it asks to update software - its'll reboot into Engineering Mode (black screen with small red font) and its pretty logical from there. All touchscreen still and some things you may need to tap twice. Doesn't take very long. Ideally plug a battery charger in but if the battery's good and its had a decent run to be nicely charged then that'll be all you need.

@LinoTheFox TSB = Technical service bulletin TPI = Technical product information Both basically types of memos that go to dealers warning of recognised issues and methods to resolve. There will be a difference between the two but essentially that's what they do. In other words, Langers2k and Cairus are both confirming that VAG know all about your specific issue with your specific environment. And whilst there's no harm in trying to grease, it probably isn't the solution. 👍

Most up to date software is v332. No discernible difference to 330 but works fine. I have a copy of it on my ftp site if either of you wanted. @chrisgreen you could update straight but @SteveMcK you’d need to go to 308 and then could go to 332 from there.

https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1B6Ez8v2pb/?mibextid=wwXIfr Valid until 7th Jan seemingly.

It came up in a The Phirm Facebook post but I googled and it’s direct from KW. Get them sent out and then fitted as customer supplied.

Same reports on Golf and Audi forums. Only difference is VW and Audi were made like KYB which seem less prone to leaking like the Monroe ones on Seat and Skoda. KW gave 30% off so if you wanted to get some replacements it’s a good time for them

Hate to force your hand on this one but KW have 30% off at the mo. They were on my list to get their DDC (their aftermarket version of DCC) but they were out of my price range. Whereas this would have brought them right into the mix.

Time to tell you I switched away from them? 🤐 Not for any reason by the way - I had just had enough of the grooved discs and they were ok/cheap and cheerful. Changed the discs (see project thread) and thought I'd change the pads too while I was there. Only done a few hundred miles bedding in and can definitely tell a difference already though. Back to cleaning wheels!

Always seems to be the backs that go first; def read it on several threads over the years and mine were first to be advised on. Ironic but it is what it is.

I thought the OCU updates needed to be done at a dealer as they can take hours. But I really ask not certain so wait for someone else to shoot me down. OCU is all to do with the eSIM though so intermittent SOS errors definitely points to it.

Sounds like a sensible approach. KW are very well rated, going back to your previous point btw.

Not relevant to this thread but just pick up on this - no B8 DCC for us. Only application I found it for was a Porsche model. DCC for VAG is B4, B6 shocks and B16 coilovers. Non-DCC is B4/B6/B8 shocks, then coilovers B12, B14(height adjustable), B16 (height and stiffness adjustable).

Maybe related to the wet spark plugs we found? Leaking cam cover sealant…?