travs

Yeah get rid of them trees! 🤭

Meaning really odd that the area behind the grille is closed off and needs cutting open

This is basically part of the R600 housing replicated to fit with the standard airbox I think? As @JR RS described, really odd why it’s done like that. Equally confusing is how it can’t be done on the car. I found it noticeable but at the same time as the intercooler and charge pipes - so more volume shifted from the front bumper all the way through to the intake. Means I couldn’t see an isolated effect. But it’s obvious how it opens up the channel to the airbox.

So the options are: Cat. You can have fast cat or decat. GPF. For countries where it’s not a legal requirement, the option won’t have threaded holes for sensors to plug in as I guess they won’t be in the loom? Where it is legal, you’ll have the locations for sensors to be plugged in, but either way there won’t be a GPF. You’ll get an error unless you map it out which usually comes with Stage 2 remaps as downpipe is a requirement. Additional Silencer option - where customers want to remove the GPF but retain a stock sound, an additional silencer box can be added. Doesn’t seem to impact flow, as that’s more about the bore of the pipe, freer-flowing cat and GPF removal, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it did have a minor effect. So for me, I’d have to go with all of that - all the go, none of the show. Keeps in line with the Q-car nature of it all.

Cheers Mario. Old man to the rescue. Debadged and I'm thinking actually of removing the SKODA on the back... Its currently Stage 1+, which is RL speak for intake and intercooler but no downpipe. They introduced it when the GPFs came in so people could...ahem...stay legal. DNF engines (EA888.4) have a bigger Continental turbo so remap-only supposedly goes to 390-400bhp; that's 70bhp for an S3 but 120bhp for the Superb (and a Passat has the same 280 version). I have the seen the Sleeper - kudos but they should have thought about offering it as a package like ABT on the Leon Cupra STR. I think they essentially did what APR are offering (but RL not yet on the EA888.4) which is a Stage 3 bigger turbo, but sacrificing top-end by keeping the standard downpipe with GPF. You can get comfortably over 500 by upgrading the turbo (Powermax 2 is the most common option) but the downpipe will end up being the weak link restricting flow despite the greater boost pressure. As for gearbox, I don't think 500NM is going to be the limit. TVS Stage 2 ECU remap states 560NM and if they don't advise doing anything about the gearbox then I think there's wiggle room. I've had the Racingline TCU though. Interesting point on the Dongle, might be worth a look - the Phirm also don't RR it but create custom maps out on the road as it is more indicative of the real-world car.

RL says 430bhp and 550NM; it could be better as we cut out the front plastic trim for better induction airflow behind the grille - or it could be worse as it’s an average quote and it’s below average. Engine-wise; R600 and inlet pipe, Wagner intercooler and charge pipes (turbo to intercooler - intercooler to throttle body), upgraded plugs and coil packs just to make sure it’s a decent spark. RL ‘Stage 1+’. Stage 2 will be downpipe and then should be 450bhp and 588NM. Then Powermax2….🤪 Can’t go for loud as family car and will get it in the neck. Hence Trackslag downpipe with no GPF but with their additional silencer to keep noises subtle. At the point of getting the turbo in and finish playing with it physically it might be worth going to Kalam

My bad - only just listened to this. Sounds right on the money. Agree 100% telling you what he's done is brilliant for those that want to know and are interested. The RL stuff is great but I've got no idea how they've achieved what they have - and I haven't RR'd it so no idea what its actually producing.

Seem to drive very little in the dark in this part of the year but will keep an eye out and report back.

As an executive summary - this is where essentially, instead of lighting up the left side of the road and keeping it low on the right (to stop the other side being dazzled), the car does the opposite and keeps the light low on the left and lights up the right-hand side of the road?

Its not just the different tuning versions within each stage; You pay for one stage and they're all free with the PDM. I bought ran Stage 1 initially, then remapped to Stage 1+ when the intercooler/charge pipes went in. Now I'm eye-ing up a downpipe, I'll be able to Remap to Stage 2 as soon as I get the car home again. If I leave the car for a while I can remap to 0 (ie no map so the car cant be started as an anti-theft measure). Its a really good setup.

Oh a certain domestic situation doesn’t allow for that! The one I’m looking at has a fast cat, GPF removal but an additional silencer box to keep sounds down. Not cheap though.

Good numbers there buddy. Looks like RRR have come up with the numbers once again!

OK - so on the list is: Superpro LCAs - standard replacements with poly bushes. @Awesam would be good to get alu items but I want to move to poly bushes and any combination of poly and alu ends up being £500 upwards and don't come with bottom ball joints so more cost Superpro Front anti-roll bar Superpro Front and rear drop links (may as well upgrade the rears while I'm looking at bits to swap out) If that doesn't kill the creak as well as tighten up the front end a little, then it must be top mounts by the that point and I'll aim for those. Now downpipes...

Fingers crossed for that then!

Some adaptors are for charging cables and only deal with power. Just need to make sure its power and data. Its not just USB-A to USB-C adaptors. I've got a micro-USB cable that only charges - plug in my Garmin bike computer to my PC and nothing. Grab another cable and all is fine. Same with iphone to USB adaptors since the change from the Lightning connector. Some are just for power and won't work with headphones etc.

Looks really good @zacko_O - really neat job too.

According to google AI, they're the same except for the TRC1071 gives you a little more caster 🤷‍♂️

Can I get some recommendations for LCAs and preferably part numbers? No-one seems to be able to confirm that they fit the Superb 3V AWD. I thought this TRC1070 was the right one, but apparently not. According to AwesomeGTI, this TRC1071 is correct, but not according to the Superpro website. The single worst aspect of ownership of these cars is trying to work out which supplier knows their arse from their elbow when it comes to supplying or selling the parts that they make.

Someone @MarioVrs mentioned…

I’m guessing something infrastructure to get around. Steering rack different or something like that? @leolito at least you know there’s a bloke in Austria that can sort you out! 🎉🎉

Whilst it doesn't answer the question specifically, you have 2 options to charge the phone: use one of the cigarette lighter chargers; they do pretty fast units these days convert one of the cigarette points to a flush USB unit permanently.

The downpipe? I don’t think there’s a difference between LHD and RHD

I've not known rain to be related but god knows. May be worth getting the battery tested - you want to use a battery tester that gives you the State of Health and State of Charge as well as I thin taking readings when the engine is running and when not. More informed people on here will know (try some searches on battery testing). Otherwise, 5 years is squarely within the very wide end-of life span for batteries - you cold shortcut the above and just get it replaced (including using something like VCDS/OBD11 to tell the car the new battery is in and what type).

When did you change the battery last? Electronical gremlins, which are both varied and inconsistent amongst owners are first put down to the battery on its way out. I think after that you can get wheel speed sensors which fail and start to do the same. I'm assuming the dealer has run fault code scans (Have they? Did they mention the battery or wheel speed sensors?) but it looks like they've very much focussed on the sensors and associate framework being the issue and not whether something unrelated causing a ghost issue.

I've got a link in a post last friday about 7 or 8 posts above which has it. Unzip to an empty USB stick in the root, plug it in, press and hold Menu button which will reboot the MIB into engineering mode (black screen with small red font) and follow the logic on there; its all touch screen and some options seem to need selecting twice. Otherwise, if I can do it without an instruction manual, you're good to go.