travs

Googled and this came up - its a little generic but gives a decent explanation. 113k is a massive mileage for a 2023 car - what sort of driving do you tend to do? VW Passat is the most likely comparator - talks about a pressure sensor so I'd look at getting it scanned with something like OBDII or VCDS to see what fault codes may help point to it. Have you noticed economy taking a nosedive?

Not doing anything wrong per se. Updating maps just involves leaving the stick in the car and periodically check for map version and see what version is for the update. Some can take hours some days. The file is broken up into lots of bits so the system has lots of checkpoints to restart from as you switch the car on and off.

I had the guys at my Indy have a little look when they did the service and couldn't see anything obvious. I did speak to them about rotating the spring but they said that the spring goes in the cup and the end of the coil it butted up where it should be in the cup so I didn't think there was any room for adjustment on that unless its rotating the spring away from from its final position. I didn't look at the parts up close before taking them to be fitted and struggling to get a really good in depth video on youtube...

I was reading the TTRS and RS3 have wider track and so if they are slightly longer on the outward section of the arm for the wider track, but with our topmount position it would mean the wheel is leaning in at the top...? That's how it reads to me anyway. Would be interesting to see what results you get!

Trying to read plenty up on this - has this given you more negative camber? If so, any need to change the top mounts? Did you also get an alu subframe? £95 seems great value for a unit with ball joint per side rather than £00's for Superpro things!

That makes sense. Looks like one option for both sides rather than one each side? (Guess so otherwise the option to have one rolling and one straight would look ridiculous)

Yeah mibhelper only goes up to 324. There is 332 which you can get from my meganz ftp site (you can search for it)

Yep - generally 12.6 and over is good. 12.4 and below needs looking at. When engine not running and not plugged in. It’s useful to also look at State of Charge and State of Health. SoC is how charged it is like your phone battery % SoH is the battery’s capability compared to full charge when brand new. So - change battery get it coded (the car needs to be told a new battery has been put in) and with any luck the codes clear. Even it doesn’t solve the problem, it looks like it’ll need changing anyway. See if you can get the seller to contribute seeing as it was clearly on its way when they sold (and if they ever refer to the 3million point check they do presale, then this absolutely should have been 1 of them).

Dealer would be able to do a. Full diagnostic on the car. However given the age, a decent alternative would be a specialist VAG independent with a good reputation. They’ll have all the right stuff and be cheaper on the hourly rate. As to whether you repair or return - I’d say it depends if you like the car. Sounds like the seller is willing to entertain the idea of helping out with costs; the key word there is “reasonable” as that is subjective. The two main issues with electrical gremlins have always been and will always be: Battery on its way out. ABS sensor has gone duff. So first thing to do would be to check not only the charge of the battery but also the health of the battery. Traditionally it’s 4 years old, but going on anecdotal info on here, it could be anywhere between 5 and 15 years old - so age is always trumped by getting a decent multimeter on there to check it.

Although this thread will take an unexpected turn if you just start getting trolled with DIY suggestions 🤣

Googling seems to suggest 80k too. Either way, it’s simple to get it sorted. Mine’s just ticked over 30k but it’ll be 5 years old in March so will have it done then; especially given the tuning, it’s stupid not to.

This picture is bonkers - how on earth they suggest DQ381 is the only one that can do double the miles. It just makes VAG look shady like they’re looking for replacement costs because there is no logic to it on any of the basic info. Even the DQ500 needs 40k changes and that’s meant to be for higher power right?!

Tbh my wireless CarPlay on MIB3 is flakey so I tend to plug it in under the armrest so it doesn’t keep connecting and disconnecting. That might be dependent on the last letter of the Hardware part number as I’m sure I’ve seen various within the MIB3 family

I’m more than happy to be corrected by those that know far more than me - and @Cairus definitely knows more. “Solder” makes it a hard job for me but it’s subjective. Plenty wouldn’t have a problem pulling the board out and touching up the solder on it. Depends on your skills!

VCDS get direct from Rosstech. You can get a 3 or 10 licence version. You can run as many fault codes as you want but the licenses get used when you run adaptions. https://m.gendan.co.uk/vcds-hex-v2.php?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=11491173747&gbraid=0AAAAAD_wnEnJZEuWeP4mxDjAOHr1G34Uo And also (someone please confirm) - you push back rather than wind back the piston.

I think there’s something about looking at where the loom comes from the roof to the boot, see if there is any damage to the accordion pipe that the wires run through.

Superb VRS3 insta page

The Superb VRS3 with the Audi RS3 engine swap (not the Skoda Sleeper btw) has Motec MCR2 Ultralight, which are now sitting on the periphery of my radar. They’re 8.9kg a wheel, compared to 14.9kg for Vega or 15.1kg for Trinity wheels. They’re flow-formed and seem to have a decent reputation. But a set of 4 19” 5x112 ET43 are about £1,000-£1,100 depending on exchange rate. Is it me or is that cheap for items with a pretty strong reputation?

I’m erring on the same; like it’s a little bit faddy or gimmicky. Still a bit on the fence but I do see where you’re coming from

Fingers crossed - not wishing ill but you almost want it to be the battery as that’s probably the easiest to solve. Let us know how you get on!

Fingers crossed it’s all sorted. Stuck a Kingbolen BM550 on my Christmas list; cheers for that. Looked at a 520 but I just couldn’t see me needing the features tbh.

Yeah I’ll definitely be one of the ones with a heavier right foot and having to transfer the power to the rear will bring in the clutch which will be the contaminant I think. As an aside, there are reports of dealers offering to clean but I think there’s a negotiation on price as they won’t book/charge for it as standard.

Good stuff Ryan - glad it was all sorted in the end. Feels like a lot to spend but in doing it all in one go is definitely the best way to get it sorted.

Yes there are Haldex service options as well as DSG service options. DSG (DQ381 which you’ll have) is 80k miles. It used to be 40k miles for the pre facelift DQ250 (6speed) but this has been changed for the 7speed. There doesn’t seem to be any sensible rationale discussed on here as being a good reason for change and so most people proactively stick to the 40k limit. It’s up to you however. Personally, if you’re approaching 37/38k miles I’d get it done but it’s your choice. Haldex used to be every 3 years but this was shortened to 2 years (well my Dealer always emailed me about it every other year) so that will be due at the same time. There are mileage alternatives which I’m not sure about but mine has done on average 12k miles between those and has always looked like it needed it. Now - the official service manual includes changing the oil but doesn’t include time for removing the pump and cleaning a filtering gauze which is attached to the end of it. Without cleaning, it will still flow oil slowly and contaminate the fresh oil quicker. Advice has always been to look for a local VAG specialist and check they will do that for you. Mine did and took before and after pics.

Ooh - what's the details on the lower arms. I've got a creaky right hand side which I'm sure is one of the bushes on it so was wondering about options to upgrade them.