travs

Not relevant to this thread but just pick up on this - no B8 DCC for us. Only application I found it for was a Porsche model. DCC for VAG is B4, B6 shocks and B16 coilovers. Non-DCC is B4/B6/B8 shocks, then coilovers B12, B14(height adjustable), B16 (height and stiffness adjustable).

Maybe related to the wet spark plugs we found? Leaking cam cover sealant…?

Missed this and had to check - it doesn’t run the gearbox oil through the radiator; it has a heat exchanger and the coolant runs through that and the radiator.

Oh cool. I was told it was 🤷🏻‍♂️ Either way Haldex is maintenance so that’s doable at a specialist either way.

There’s possibly elements of later design/facelift design but either way - glad you’re enjoying and best of luck with it!

Wow - that’s nuts. MIB3 is pretty chaotic in the grand scheme of things. At this stage I’d resort to a complete reset and see if you can rescue it there. I know Lane Assist has an additional option that makes it more active - have you got everything ticked in the assist settings menu?

Brakes replaced. The Mtec/ATE stuff was ok but I definitely felt like I was pressing harder on the pedal when having to haul the speed off when loaded up. Still just finishing bedding in so haven’t used these in anger yet but they look decent and I’m enjoying the lack of groove/noise. Getting old. Front - Golf CS reps made by SHW performance. Rear - VBT CS lookalikes to match. Pads are Ferodo DS2500 all round

Awesome stuff pal; glad it was as you hoped. That’s a decent boost of power too - very unexpected to the casual onlooker I bet

Although I have Gen6. 5WA rather than 0CQ Guessing it’s not fundamentally different mind you. Good to know it’s not just my heavy foot. Found out when I bought a Road Rage Performance Haldex tuning kit and it didn’t work on 5WA part number.

I reckon it’s material coming off the haldex when it engages and disengages. So the sort that causes the front wheels to slip enough for the haldex to want to bring the rear wheels into the mix

It’s not that they’re rubbish - the repair manual doesn’t instruct it and seeing as they get to charge for the work, most will just follow the manual. The good thing is to maintain your warranty you need to have your servicing done at a main dealer, you don’t need your maintenance done there. This is considered maintenance and as long as you go to a decent Indy VAG specialist that can update the online service history and confirms they’ll clean the gauze and take before and after pics then you’re fine. One thing on the timeline though - I’ve just checked my emails, my local dealer emailed me at 2 years old out of the blue. A few timelines were changed over the years and this might be one of them. Mine had done about 12k miles and was pretty gunked up. Had it done at 4 years and another 12k miles and was the same so do look into it for sure.

Agree with that - get someone to look at it. Slower speed steering will feel heavier naturally so that stacks up.

Yep the buttons are locked, not enabled. If the lights are illuminated, then the windows won't work and the child lock should be on for the door opening. Hit both buttons and they should all work.

Pics after or it didn’t happen. Fingers crossed it all works out 👍🏼

Genuine Volkswagen Scirocco Interlagos Turbine 18″ inch Alloy Wheels with Silver Finish 3C8 601 025 D• Dimensions: 8J X 18 ET 41 • PCD: 5×112 Nicked this off some website. I think Superb 8x18 are ET44 so the Interlagos will sit slightly further out by a few mm. Otherwise PCD and CB are the same.

That’s ok - I know more than some, less than others. All good for the melting pot of forums. My experience is with the petrol engines but checking out a google image, the Airbox will be behind the passenger side headlight and then the main intake pipe goes from there to the turbo which is nestled between the engine block and bulkhead (the back wall of the engine bay). After the turbo, the charge will exit under the intake pipe and run round that same side of the engine block down to the intercooler (mated to the radiator) on the passenger side at the bottom. It exists the intercooler on the drivers side low down where it runs back between the intercooler and engine and up to the throttle body/inlet manifold (please correct if I’m wrong anyone!) But…of all the things that could happen, I don’t think this is likely. The example I gave had pipes that split because there were 2 turbos on the outside of the banks of a v6. Different setup/different layout. Much weaker design basically.

Yeah agree with that - splits in the intake wouldn’t give any smoke but you’d likely get a loss of performance and possibly hear a whistling sound depending on where etc.

Update on this - plugging it in is absolutely faultless so looking at the wireless carplay aspect. I can't see any way to roll back to v330 to remove v332 as a variable. Anyone got any thoughts on what might be going wrong?

My 2p - if it hasn't always been like that its not likely to be a software issue that is degrading by itself - software is usually either fine or very not. Physical electrical items tend to be sporadic. What's your driving habits like with regard to journey length and frequency? Have you tried an Italian tune-up? It probably isn't needed so much these days with DPF but it could be worth it. Turbo coming on song would point to some sort of assistance on the intake side but that will possibly be compensatory, same as Sport mode. Is there anyone near you with a similar car you could try and try yours?

Got nothing to do with it. I pointed out you talking here about downloads from servers which isn’t relevant to updating info to the car. The guy asked a question, we can just answer it rather than raise a point if order that’s he’s asked in the wrong topic

Yes but you’re talking about download speed from source whereas the question is on download to the car from the stick. @RollySefu7 updating maps and updating firmware are 2 different processes. For maps you have nothing to tell you it’s done except when you check on the screen which tells you the navigation database. The process works when the car is on so while leaving it in overnight is fine, it’s because you might as well leave it there for the next time you drive, not because anything will happen overnight.

Well you can only try but generally price reflects quality. I would also get OE top mounts and bearings. These go at the top of the shock and allow it to twist as you steer.

Hi, MIB3 in a 2021 Superb running v332 firmware. iphone 15 on wireless carplay. The phone always used to wirelessly connect on startup, then disconnect once sometime within the first couple of minutes, then reconnect and be fine for the rest fo the journey no matter how long. Recently, its starting to drop connection and reconnect (sometimes failing to) a few times in succession. I also had one incident of the GPS being way off and in a different direction. Are these recognisable symptoms of any sort of breakdown of something? OCU starting to fail? I haven't tried a wired connection but I'll give that a go and see if it makes any difference. On longer journeys I prefer that over cooking the phone on the wireless charging plate anyway but it does feel a step backwards in tech/convenience.

I looked that up and got nothing 😬 (aside from some part number for something). Can’t believe my divorce joke didn’t win any awards 😢

Weirdly - when I google those different part numbers, the ones on the back of the speaker are for various models, the ones Cairus provided only seem to refer to the Octavia. Are they actually different speakers? Or is the Canton system just the DSP and perhaps the number of speakers and Sub?