travs

Don’t know about anyone else but I find mine weird. When you first turn it on you get a lovely surge of cold air and then it just seems to not be obvious to the point it feels like it’s not working. It’s only when I turn it off I realise that the seats aren’t getting hotter. I just wish I could have that initial surge all the time.

Good to see it’s not a complete dead end - fingers crossed you get some sort of result from HQ. Don’t be attracted by economy. Life’s too short to sacrifice everything for it. Especially when it’s VW self-reported!

Boom. There you go OP - get them to check for leaks first rather than just refill it.

Sorry buddy - I always see your name against the map update threads. @r0mantik Try the link in this thread for the latest download This thread

The thing about standard is the shocks are prone to leaking. And they don’t seem any cheaper than aftermarket. My first leak is at just under 28,000 miles so I either start replacing individual corners at a time, or axles perhaps, or swap the whole lot out (I’ve gone for the latter hoping I get longevity). Seat/Skoda were supplied by Monroe whereas Audi/VW were supplied by KYB. Could be the latter were better built if they have fewer incidences of leaking so putting those in may result in lower replacement frequency.

In which case this feels to me like software isn’t the issue. If it’s basically happened with multiple tries of different software (and 324 was the first problem) then that variable has changed a few times with the same result. Same with the Navigation. Doesn’t seem like it’s sitting right for whatever reason. I’d be inclined to go back to a Skoda Dealer, play dumb about the updates and just highlight the navigation and connectivity issues. See if they can update the OCU and if not change it.

Have you tried a second time in case something didn’t update properly? If not, try it again. Otherwise, it may be an OCU update required. It’s the unit that talks to phones and can affect navigation if it’s going all over the place. For the WiFi - have a play in the settings menu ticking options. I found my car was connecting to the home WiFi and then losing any data as soon as I drove off Also - look at updating maps if you want. There’s an updated version from 24.6 👍🏼

@MartiniB is an absolute guru on map updates and maybe able to help or advise

Re DCC SLIDER mod - don’t worry, you need VCPro or ODIS to do it. It involves a new file for the bus to separate the pressure rates from 3 settings to 15; and a new file for the shocks to receive and interpret those new 15 values. Just seems to be impossible to find someone although I’m not sure there isn’t an option to do it remotely…

Cheap and cheerful tbh - don’t be drawn in on price. For braking performance you’re probably just as likely to get decent performance with standard discs and a better pad. I thought I’d relive youth with grooved and drilled and the grooves are just a bit much tbh. Braking is not noticeably better. I’ve not tracked but approaching a dual carriageway roundabout with the car full to the brim and the pedal has to be pushed more and the sound gets much more intrusive. I’ve actually got some replacements ready to go on still standard size: Front: SHW Performance Golf Clubsport fronts. These are interesting as they are similar to 2piece but are fixed. It means there is better airflow through the disc. SHW have been making OE for Germans for donkey’s years. They got bought by investors who obvs realised a Performance arm could tap into the aftermarket market. Seem to be same as OE. Rear: I’ve got VBT “Clubsport reps” just so they look the same. Pads I went for Ferodo DS2500 which aren’t compliant with ECE R90 because (I believe) they don’t heat up quick enough because they’re used for higher performance applications. The ATE ceramic pads are great for hardly any dust. Months can go by and you don’t notice the wheels getting darker. Someone on here has reported them chewing up his discs though. Have also got some HEL braided brake hoses ready to go on too. Main thing if not going for bigger (I did look at some of the other model VAG replacements with staying the same but with more pistons but decided against) is cooling. Hence the RS3 brake ducts (very cheap and easy) and now the CS reps. I also looked at RS3/TTRS brake shields but decided it wasn’t worth it. TLDR - Mtec aren’t worth it tbh

I’d love to have DCC slider mod done but can’t seem to find anyone. If anyone knows someone that can, please do shout on here!

Just gotta be careful on not using too much steam on it. Usually wrap a flannel around the end of the nozzle and use the steam for a little heat and moisture and have the flannel do the rest.

Not a bad idea - and not sure if the Passat or Arteon will be a straight swap. But you could easily chuck on some Bilstein B6 with standard springs. That will sort out the rebound without lowering.

Finally thought about it when the bonnet was open: Same but different grade to Gen3.

Supports the fact that 504/507 was 5w-30 and then changed to 0w30; probably for EA888Gen4 engines

Oh that’s interesting. Wonder what engine it had. I think there could be some with Gen3 EA888s in facelift cars as I thought the Gen 4 wasn’t being used until some time in 2020. I have a brochure from Sept 21 - almost identical but by then the L&K steering wheel is 2-spoke (same picture, looks photoshopped). Either way, may be facelift then that cooled seats became standard.

Dec 19 is early for facelift; but it could have been preemptive marketing. Do the pics have the roundel(pre-FL) or S K O D A (FL) across the boot?

Alcantara differs mostly about getting the fibres to sit up again. I know people who tend to use a damp cloth and only move onto a product for any particular stains. I’d say start with a damp flannel. The fibres on there will help to lift up the alcantara fibres and you’ll be surprised how much dirty comes off too. It’s a good/cheap/easy way to clean much of your interior surfaces to be honest. A bucket of warm water to rinse, ring it out really well so the cloth is wet but not depositing water and you can do everything from steering wheel, dash, seats, seatbelts, door cards. The bucket will not be clean by the end. I use white flannels and then chuck them in a hot wash with bio powder after as some of that is biological dirt (ie skin oils etc)

Get a new one. This says Mit Silikat on the side and so it has a silica bag inside, which is designed to aid the life of the coolant, but eventually breaks down and blocks the cooling system. Whilst you don’t want it to be urgent, if the header tank looks like it’s had a fair innings and your cooling system is working ok (I think you notice a lack of hot air when things go wrong) then I’d say you’re possibly getting towards being on borrowed time on this.

Not if it’s OE spec - pattern parts are used in non-dealers all the time and they’re designed to do the exact same thing. Even something that was originally designed for an Arteon, if it’s within the same tolerances and there to do the same job then I don’t think it’s an issue - i.e. the rule of thumb is if it’s not there to change the performance of the vehicle then it’s not an issue. 2 things come into that though - what defines changing the performance of the vehicle - engine output is an easy one as it’s definitive and measurable but something more subjective such as OE size brake pads of an improved nature may mean (a) nothing at all, (b) that the driver requires something to stop better so perhaps he’s driving faster (c) that the driver merely wants to have better braking as it’s increase safety. Entirely down to the insurer which way they want to look at it. Which is the second point - it’s all speculation when in reality it also depends on the insurance company, what their risk modelling is, what they profit margin is, how they view drivers as opposed to vehicles etc.

Yeah you're right - This one is indeed ALOY008K. Selected from Superb, but for compatible vehicles it then doesn't list the Superb. Amateurs.

Superpro do have alloy for Superb LCAs. However...only seem to be upto 2019 so pre-facelift but I didn't think there were differences to FL (although MQB/MQBEvo), they're £800 without bottom ball joint, and they increase caster so won't be OE replacement setup.

Cheers @Awesam - yep calibration will be on the cards afterwards for sure. The guys at the Phirm are switched on having done these all the time. Just need to go through and make sure I’ve got all the necessary side bits - top mounts, bearings, maybe bolts and all that sort of thing

Are they talking about aluminium as opposed to an alloy? Surely aluminium will flex more than steel naturally?

What’s the benefit - lower sprung weight and increasing stiffness? That part number in Autodoc seems to think it is the same part across VW models…but it’s also the same scattergun approach of thinking it’s not compatible for the Superb. So make of that what you will. Although they are all MQB or MQBEvo, there must be some minor differences in parts; for example the resonator delete that you could get for the pre-FL Superb was a better fit for a Cupre Formentor rather than Golf. Where the differences are or what parts they are relevant to I don’t know.