travs

Yeah that looks like it AS. None of the suppliers I can see mention the gen4 until I spotted reference to the Mk8 golfs. Cheers for confirming.

Hi all, bought a silicone intake hose a little while back but waiting for warranty to expire. Now that has, I was looking to swap but have noticed the following pipe spur into the bottom of it that isn’t on the replacement. Is it a sump breather? I can’t see facility to plug it into any replacements so what do people do with it?

Thank you for coming back to post the resolution. Always good for the bank of potential answers in future 👍

Some detailers will use compound with a 1” head and rotary polisher but you need to know what you’re doing. Worth trying some polishing compound with microfibre cloths for on and off. Needs to be proper compound not just a hand polish product which is more likely fillers and a wax coating.

Personally I’d leave the battery in place and charge so that any permanent live systems stay on. May be other considerations that others will state though

Welcome and yes it does sound a bit of a situation. Luckily you’re in the best place for info and answers. Check the logs as suggested and unpick what you did. Alternatively does the video tell you what values to change from? Maybe go through it again reverting all values back to what they were. And finally luckily there is a pinned post at the top of this section with all the tried and tested VCDS changes you can make 👍

I think had I not spent years watching rally drivers do it their way I would have seen the logic in the way it is done at consumer level (albeit at least with BMW as the exception).

Def at the top of the list following your build thread Esseesse

Feeling the love. Def a good active forum. I think the only thing seems like meets have fallen away but I’m betting that’s widespread

I’ve got my eye on ECU2/DSG2+ combo when the warranty runs out later this year

In answer to your initial question though, I wouldn't worry about the behaviour of the dealers - could be a whole host of reasons; like wanting to get sales figures etc. The car is wholly under-rated compared to its VW and Audi counterparts. May not have some of the same stuff but its got the same look and feel and is a whole lot rarer. Sportline replaces wiht chrome with black trim so that's better and you don't miss out on much. Can see 4 Sportline or L&K 2023 so a few options around...

Only what's left of her

Not for me to decide whether anything should or should not be removed. I didn't know it could - but I have plenty of equipment that is sensitive to it; Heart Rate Monitors, bike speed and cadence sensors, a few kids toys. Have moved over to Energiser just to avoid having to deal with it.

Water pump is new car, it’s a slightly grubby oil filler cap which needs new engine.

That and the bitter coating on some (certainly duracell, maybe others) seems to make a difference too.

Yep find the same in D, have to put throttle down quite a bit at which point it changes down and acts like you’ve floored it. Even worse in E. Generally when coming to a junction/roundabout I knock it into S so that little bit better rev range. The same when looking to need a bit of a kickdown effect, like an overtake or released on a dual carriageway from slower traffic. Not sure there is a quick fix, I have XLR on the strongest setting, I prefer the sensitivity and you dial it into your behaviour after a bit, but it still doesn’t solve the gear choice issue. In time I’d look at a remap for ECU and TCU. Not for this reason but it might solve it as an aside.

Sounds an immense project. So using a bike engine and gearbox would that mean knocking forward for first then back for all the upchanges? (Thinking bikers tap down for first and then up for all upchanges?). In which case glad the topic has been discussed at least but even it’s a no-way then it is what it is. Mate did show me his M2 Competition gearstick and as @Rootedsaid BMW followed the motorsport way so there are options out there for an auto that you can shift intuitively. i’m not saying my way is right of course - horses for courses, it’s just always been the way my brain has worked.

More than happy to stand corrected on it all. I thought that TCU mappers might have the ability to change that level of coding seeing as they off per a variety of additional options. But I have no working knowledge of the software other than high-level layman theory.

Hmmmmm…tippex? Tbh I’d happily live with that until selling on then have it put back to normal so the new owner doesn’t wonder what on earth. I didn’t think it would need a physical change to be honest. Probably would be too much hassle if that was the only way but I’m still not convinced it can’t be done by coding on the TCU

Driving none but years of being a young age watching on board rally footage had it ingrained in me I guess. It’s always been a natural response to my mind for whatever reason. Paddles mostly for me too when in the mood but if I’m turning then god knows where the right paddle is. Usually pulling out of a junction and unwinding the steering while changing out of first etc but there are other examples

I stand corrected on the models. At least some get it right! I was wondering that the TCU has a signal from a switch coded to a gear change direction; and just swapping that around would mean everything’s right with the world….

Hi all, Had a bit of a search but can’t find anything about this… Any passenger cars with sequential stick-shifter requires pushing forward to change up, and pulling back to change down. But this is the opposite to motorsport and, truth be told my brain naturally errs to motorsport and I have to think consciously when using that bit of shifting. So, has anyone ever identified or tried or known of a way of changing it round? It’s just an electronic switch after all…

Had it on the Sportarrrrrrrzhe - jerky but the single worst thing is it sits slightly too far over to the left in the lane. Felt like I’d be trading paint overtaking people

Looks great - I'd wondered about this Polar range; just blasting with a lance. The Pre-wash is pH Neutral, the shampoo is relatively alkali (generally expected and needed for road grime/traffic film), but the protector is fairly acidic at 4.7; not sure I expected that but its Siloxanes and Silicones so similar to something like Carpro Hydro2 perhaps. In fact, on that ph point, using the wash might end up being quite destructive to the Protect layer because of such a difference to the ph levels. As such, you may find you can't maintain the Protect layer by keeping it decontaminated with the Wash product. Be interesting to see if that is the case or not.

Nice one DW - welcome to the forum and glad you're enjoying the Octy!