chimaera

Why would I waste money on something that I know objectively cannot possibly do what its makers claim? Whatever you might choose to believe, it is a matter of fact that this device can't work.

No, FM supports radio text as well, but not every station uses it.

There's an option somewhere in the settings to display radio data. That will do what you want.

Get it scanned with VCDS or similar. My bet would be cracked wiring between the driver's door and body, or a flaky switch inside the lock, either of which could intermittently make the alarm think the door has been unlocked and decide to go off. The door control module will have stored codes related to this if it happens to be the problem.

FLIR could work if eye-tracking technology gets good enough to accurately predict where the driver is looking, and use that to position the HUD overlay so that it is overlaid on the object picked up by the FLIR camera and focused appropriately so that what the driver sees is seamless. I'm not sure we're there yet. Agreed. If you have to look at the controls the whole time you're interacting with them it's a problem. CANBUS is a data bus/communications protocol. It provides a standardised means of communications between devices on the network. It doesn't require that the devices must be able to understand & process data sent to them via the network. To do what you are proposing, you will need to know in detail how each of the modules you are linking together function. What information they can send via C ANBUS, what they can receive & process, whether they are limited to only communicating with certain addresses, and probably a whole bunch of other stuff I'm not even aware of.

https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do 24 h subscription should be enough to grab everything you need.

What year is it? The TSI engines have a timing chain rather than a belt. I believe the 2.0 can suffer similar problems to the 1.8 - those are well documented around here if you do a search.

Skoda don't offer an 18" space saver for the Superb, just the 16" one noted above. The standard 7.5x18 wheel with 225/40/R18 usually fits the spare wheel well though if you can find one. 4x4 has the same boot floor as the FWD model.

I doubt it'd work. The ski hatch won't even open past the older child's booster seat in mine. I've seen some companies offer custom made frames to hold three seats where there aren't normally fixings for them but I don't know how good they are regarding regulations and fit.

Injectors won't necessarily show a fault code, even if they're worn. I'm aware of the wear on mine because my mechanic picked up on it last year and advised me on what to keep an eye on. Right now I would suggest you replace the faulty DPF sensor and see if it makes a difference before looking for more faults.

The service manuals are available from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/ and include full details of intake manifold removal. The main challenge is that you must remove the high-pressure injection lines between the fuel rail and injectors, which requires a little care for safety and functionality after reassembly. If you're not comfortable working on that part of the fuel system it's probably a job best left to someone who is. There are no moving parts inside the manifold, the only flap is the one in the throttle body which you've already sorted out.

Mine does something similar and I suspect injectors. IQ deviation at idle is quite a long way out of spec, but inside the limit Skoda have apparently set for replacement under the 23R6 Trust Building Measure (+/- 2.8 mg/stroke). I'd suggest a diagnostic scan as a first step, preferably with a VAG specific scan tool like VCDS.

No idea, but if you look up Thule Wing Bars, there aren't too many variations. Like I said, you can look up your car on the Thule website and it'll give you a list of compatible products.

FWIW, my Wing Bars came with the 757 foot pack. The bars are 118 cm long.

There's a product selector on the Thule website where you can drill down to your make/model and see what fits. The foot pack is going to vary depending on the bars you choose too.

I think there's some fix for this where the amp has to be disconnected from the battery for half an hour. If you do a search in this section you should be able to find the details.

Why indeed. Perhaps you should ask them? Bear in mind that people who want more power might be willing to sacrifice some reliability, and there are always people ready to be separated from their money for things like this.

It's an increasingly bad idea as a lot of newer engines have been designed around a DMF and the higher shock loading and vibration from a SMF can snap the crankshaft.

No idea. It's not something I've ever felt that bothered about.

I just took a quick look at the wiring diagrams for the stock stereo setup. In the standard setup, the speakers connect directly to the internal amplifier in the head unit through an ISO connector in the quad lock. Each corner gets +/- which is connected to the woofer in the door. The woofer has the crossover built in and the tweeter is connected directly to that in the door. The optional amplifier takes the 8 speaker lines from the ISO connector and does its thing from there.

I'm inclined to think my front ARB bushes are not in great shape based on the rattle coming from the left side and the creaking noise on the right. Looking at the service manual and parts catalogues, the OEM repair is to drop the front subframe and replace the entire ARB. Doing some searching around, there are replacement bush kits available, but none from manufacturers I've heard of, suggesting that they're not a particularly good solution. So two questions: 1. Anyone know if it's possible to replace the ARB without dropping the subframe? 2. Any source for reputable/decent bushing kits for these as an alternative? PR code for the ARB is 0AE, diameter 23.6 mm.

One of those things that comes up repeatedly around here is the thorny issue of rear suspension ride height and how to improve cars that may be sagging. I'm not going to present a solution to that question, as there are quite a lot of variables involved. What I have put together though is a summary of the different spring/damper combinations used on the rear of the Superb which should cover most of the possibilities for those who want to stick with OE parts if they're modifying their stock configuration; this is attached here as a pdf along with the geometry table from the service manual. Some caveats: I don't have access to a dealer version of ETKA, only some online versions: the information may not be complete as a result (come of the online catalogues are buggy at times) Even assuming that the catalogues I've found are complete, there may still be data missing from the catalogues I've come across a few inconsistencies that I've had to make an educated guess on What you do with this information is entirely your own business: I've done the best I can but if you mess up your car using it it's not my fault Changing the rear suspension without also changing the front could be problematic I'm planning to do a similar exercise for front suspension when I can make some time for it Some known issues: There are two raised ride height configurations available but I can only find information for the lower of the two (+10 mm over standard) The raised ride height configurations I can find seem to be listed exclusively for the 4x4 model I've no idea if the FWD model had this option or not and can't find information on it either way Some dampers in 1JA have a VIN split listed for the P/Ns pre-facelift This is included as an additional line in the table for the post split numbers In 1JC there is an additional damper part number listed with no associated spring PR codes It's listed as 'Other?' in the table In the main table, the lines highlighted in green represent the spring part number while lines highlighted in lilac represent the damper part number. To look up a configuration, find the weight range PR code at the top then drill down to the damper PR code on the left. every spring/damper PR code combination has a unique spring/damper combination. The additional tables below this are to explain/clarify what's going on. The weight range assignments are a relative ranking of the spring stiffness with 1 being softest, 14 being stiffest. As you can see in the table, the part numbers for a given weight range vary depending on the chassis/damper spec e.g. 0YB for 1JA is different to 0YB for 1JC, etc. Not every chassis spec includes all weight ranges. What is consistent in the springs is the relationship between paint codes and part number (with one exception: 0YA and 0YB for 1JC have the same paint code but different P/Ns - probably an error in the catalogue). Weight ranges 11-13 don't appear to be assigned on the Superb based on what I can find in the catalogue. An interesting thing that jumps out is that the spring alone does not determine ride height. In the table, 1JA/0YG uses the same spring as 1JD/0YA, even though the latter is 10 mm higher: the damper is what adds the extra 10 mm. The four damper configurations listed in the catalogue are fairly self explanatory. As noted above, the higher of the rough road combinations is not listed in the catalogues I have access to. Greenline is not listed in these, but the common opinion is that it's using the Sport chassis. rear suspension PR code summary.pdf