chimaera

The OE steel space saver for the Superb 2 is 6Jx16 with a 205/55/R16 94V tyre. The one above is probably the one for the Superb 3. If you're not picky, any of the OE wheel sizes fit in the wheel well, though the 18 pushes up the carpet a bit.

If it starts and immediately cuts out it's probably the immobiliser. One other possibility is the CAN gateway acting up, since that looks after communications between all the other modules. A fault scan with VCDS or similar would be a good idea.

This change was introduced in the wake of the EA189 update to reduce the buildup of soot and gunk in the throttle body. By turning the fitting around 180* the EGR is introduced in the same direction as the airflow and carried away from the throttle instead of being sent towards it and then turned around by the airflow. When I did mine about a year and a half ago there was very little muck in there. Others have seen huge piles of it. No harm to do it if you have the skills and time to tackle it. Weellllll, technically it is still a throttle in the strictest sense of the word, it's just throttling the airflow for a different reason than in a petrol engine But yeah, given that most car people think of it as being a petrol only thing it gets a little confusing. I remember doing a double take the first time the concept was introduced in fluid mechanics lectures during my undergrad.

Yes, front end is identical. It really only starts to change when you get past the B pillar.

I had a bearing get really badly worn and never noticed it because it was well masked by the car's sound deadening and tyre roar. It was a bit embarrassing TBH to be told at service that the bearing was knackered and they wouldn't let the car back out the door without doing it (so I got to pay loads extra to have a bearing in a Skoda box fitted instead of getting my indie to do it). If you're on the 225/40/R18 tyre setup, road noise can be quite intrusive, more so if the alignment is off. I'd have the alignment checked by someone who knows what they're doing, and get the wheel bearings checked for play while the car is in the air. Also, some tyres are far far worse for noise than others - double check the noise rating on the ones you got. One last possibility is that the outer CV joint is on its way out. Again, something to check if the car is on a lift. Any play in the joint means it's dead.

It sounds like worn wheel bearing or worn outer CV joint. I had a similar problem with severe vibration on my car recently and it was a combination of both these items failing. Replacing the bearing and CV joint fixed the problem.

Anything that's not halogen in a lamp designed for halogen will have the same problems with light output.

Putting a HID capsule into any lamp designed for halogen bulbs is going to be less than ideal, even if it's a projector lamp. The 'shape' of the light output is different, and a halogen lamp won't be able to collect up all of the light correctly and direct it onto the road where you need it. This will also lead to some glare for other motorists. You'll probably get better results putting in high output halogen bulbs like Osram Nightbreaker.

You will need to find someone with ODIS or VCP to fix this. VCDS can't do it.

Sounds like it might just have seized up a bit from lack of use.

I wonder if the dance only happens when the switch is on Auto when the car is started? It's an easy hypothesis to test at least. One thing I have noticed in the past is that the startup dance happens even if the lights aren't needed e.g. in daylight. The lamp unit still does its thing with the bulb off.

Another thing that occurred to me is to use the output test function in VCDS to see if the actuators in the lights can respond to control signals from the controller.

Good stuff. You can also use the adapter with the VAG-DPF app to keep an eye on your DPF if you have a TDI. Very useful for avoiding shutdowns during regen.

Hopefully just pointing out something obvious that you've already checked, but is the headlight switch set in the 'Auto' position?

Some pics

I've found wire snips squeezed in gently under the centre bit works to prize them up.

When the tailgate was replaced, was the wiring harness in it replaced also, or was the original wiring swapped over? Ditto wiper motor and lock? I'd start by checking for damaged/frayed wiring. Check that the connectors inside the rear headlining are snug. Also, check that the wiper motor isn't damaged: does it turn freely when you move it by hand?

The head should have been inspected for damage before doing any work on the timing belt. If the engine was being turned over on a broken belt, it's very likely you have bent valves. The mechanic doing the work should have known this. If they didn't, you should be asking some pointed questions about why they didn't. When you get refunded for the work, find a better mechanic.

Before trying to change the microswitch, reflow the solder joints in the electrical module attached to the lock. The 3B part number means that lock was originally designed for the B5 Passat, a car well known for dry solder joints in the locks.

You will need VAG specific diagnostics to code it in. If you don't have anything yourself, have a look here:

DPF equipped 1.9s should be avoided like the plague - they were an add-on and never properly integrated with the engine, giving lots of problems. 2.0 CR engines are fine once the DPF gets a chance to regen fully when it needs it. I'm not sure about the 2.0 PD engines but with the balance shaft issues they're probably best avoided anyway. Low mileage isn't the problem people think it is with DPFs. 2 things kill a DPF: persistently not getting time to regen, and oil ash clogging it up. The first can be avoided by buying the VAG-DPF app and a suitable Bluetooth OBD adapter (I use the Carista one and it works well). You can watch out for a regen and take the long way around when it starts so there's time for to finish out. The second will happen towards the end of the car's life if it is properly maintained and is inevitable. If the wrong oil is used, it can kill a DPF quite quickly. If you have access to suitable diagnostics when you are checking out a car you should be able to get a good read on the state of the DPF.

If you want OE, a used Amundsen+ with Bluetooth is fairly cost effective.

Unlikely given the different electrical architectures on each vehicle.

You won't get a road legal beam pattern from an LED bulb in a reflector designed for a halogen bulb, and it may result in an MOT failure.

PDC only activates automatically when reverse is engaged, otherwise you need to use the button on the centre console. It's worth bearing in mind that the Superb 2 is a generation older in terms of the electronic systems than the Octavia 3, so things you might have taken for granted on the Octavia will be different on the Superb. In my experience with the DSG on a 2WD CR170, it doesn't like to be hurried off the line from a standstill but it's quick & eager once it's rolling. 4WD might be a bit more sluggish.