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As far as I'm aware there is only one coolant temp sensor on the diesel engines & its G62, on the side of the engine..

Likely to be an 096 size EFB or AGM that was factory fitted for the size of engine with stop/start.. I swapped my smaller sized EFB for an 096 AGM Bosch in Jan 2015 (coded it myself with VCDS)..still going strong & thats with the car being stood for ages...mine you I have a C-Tek charger that does AGM batteries... oh.... I have coded out (via voltage method) the stop start...biggest PITA out...

I should bloody well hope so!!!!...I bet the muppet unhitched the damper from the knuckle/hub & allowed the hub/knuckle to drop down & still had the cables connected...thus ripping the wire out of the connector...

The versions of the EA888 used in the MQB platform are all chain driven.... The only 2 belts:- Aux belt for the alternator & air con compressor water pump on other side of engine. The main water pump (N493) has about four different pipe stubs on it & the gear for the belt ....& it is expensive...the only cheap pump is the "continued coolant circulation pump " (N51). Thats from the VAG self study guides for the engine...

Not the exact page, but its whole new wiring loom section item 15 single parts whitch are not included with the par... - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2015 year] (7zap.com)

Isn't there a CD player in the glovebox???..My MQB Golf has one

You are missing a few inches of cable besides one rubber grommet & the end connector. I have done a photo montage, using shots from my Golf (MQB) & yes its the drivers side which also has the brake pad wear sensor, BUT the wiring positioning is the same for the ABS sensor on the passenger side.

You've posted this in the wrong section of the forum, best of in the MK2 Octavia section. I will state that the factory offer a full length (to front of subframe) thin aero cover (noise insulation), & a reinforced cover (metal on the older cars, GRP on the newer MQB cars) which is great This is the page for the Octavia built upto 2010...you might have to double check its for the petrol version & it looks like its the metal ones, so you need the "damping" in the diagram otherwise its noisy! My MQB car has the GRP version & its great! engine/gearbox assy skid plate; D >> -... - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com)

What you have is better than before. I just get annoyed as its not true weather compensating & I see loads of marketing pushing stuff which is not as efficient as old systems like mine. Especially when Europe has had this stuff for years, & its been available over here for years, (all the parts I got from my local plumbing centre). You have a combi type boiler??...Your "three way valve" is instead of 2x two ways & just diverts between the rads & the internal heat exchanger for the hot water. It won't remix the flow/return to the rads as mine does as that requires 2 pumps in the system.. All condensing boilers ( & most others) modulate the flame/gas which is why they can state a minimum & maximum output. Usually the minimum is 1/3 of maximum...so mine is a 8kW to 24kW. (I could do with the newer 6-18kW). They do this by using the built in flow/return sensors. Even a "basic one" does this as its part of the safety controls which you get. Personally I'd prefer one without these as its "doubling" up, & my external controller can do direct fire, i.e. it has burner control output signals. There are other versions of my controller which do "zones" & have solar water, & various other capabilities. With regard to the temp diff north/south..thats no problem for the other versions of mine as they have two external sensors. Mine only has one on the north side but it constantly monitor the heat loss of the building via the internal sensor.. Cost is the big factor as the main controller on its own is about £800..... Here's a link to the current version of mine which looks identical:- RVP350 - Heating controller for 1 heating circuit and d.h.w. (siemens.com)

"My way" has been over in Europe since mid/late 1990's.... Its a basic WB condensing boiler, in fact any boiler will do...I chose one with the no pump, no bypass, no expansion tank, no controls (it still has a small amount of on board due to stat & safety) all so I could specify my own as external normal ones are cheaper to replace then "specific" internal boiler ones. The system is to all intents & purposes a standard unvented sealed "wet" heating with unvented DHW tank (H.S. Megaflow) I have standard radiators each with their own standard TRV (except the hallway where the internal temp sensor is). The difference is the controls & sensors (as mentioned above) & that the 2-way valve to open/close the boiler flow to the rads is replaced with a 3-way valve which also takes a feed from the rads return. This now means an extra pump & a one way valve is placed after this 3-way valve on the flow to the rads. This enabling the rads to be their own pumped closed loop separate to the boiler/bypass loop or the boiler/DHW loop. You also need to lower the speed on the pump in the boiler (or in my case the one just before the boiler on the return) as its function is now just as a "shunt pump". This pumping around the boiler & DHW tank. The advantage of the 3-way mixing is it can remix heat from the return from the rads, back into the flow to the rads before it gets to the boiler. This enabling many advantages in extracting maximum heat from the water & boiler control. This is beside the fact that I have an outside temp sensor & don't have to rely on an internet based "temp" as my nearest official connected weather station is 11miles away!

Mines a basic system boiler..just a firing chamber/heat exchanger & basic stat...

Thread revival!! So Christmas gone I heavily modified my Monitor Audio speakers (see first post for Hi-fi set-up) by internal stiffening & dampening of the cabinets & a full rebuild of the cross-overs using far better components. The internal work to the cabinet removed all bass boom/resonance, which was to be expected. The high frequency notes are much clearer, & less sharp/tiring on the ears, the mid-range is no longer muddy & there is now a proper soundstage! The best part is when low kick drums with either a bass guitar or a double bass are playing along, you can now tell each separate note, instead of hearing a combined muddy note! The notes are faster & cleaner as the drivers can react much quicker than before, & with no unnecessary “overrun bounce”. This has improved everything & I went back & re-listened to all my "test" CDs besides all the normal stuff! So back to hi-res stuff......I have have a CD from Linn (yes Linn records decks/audio) of the choir Magnificat, directed by Phillip Cave, singing Thomas Tallis "Spem in alium, Lamentations, Mass & Motets", which sounded even better after the speaker rebuild. This is one of the best "test" CDs & has remained a standard for choirs/Choral music, especially the song "Spem in alium". I recently bought the Studio Master 24bit 96kHz FLAC file from Linn which is the original that the CD was made from & not a "remaster" of the studio master as the one in my OP above. This version is just so much better! You can hear everything in the vocals, all the enunciation, the lot!!....The placement of the voices is better as well! Now to find proper Studio Masters of some of my other stuff & not the "up-scaled" from CD stuff that others are selling!..more money !....

TPM is called something different in some MOBOs, many people have bought the modules only to find they already have it. I know on my Gigabyte its a case of altering the UEFI CSM & legacy states under "win 8 features" in the BIOS.. However my i7-4790 Haswell CPU isn't supported/compatible as of yet...Not worried but Win10 support ends in 2025...so will have to build a new computer by then!!

You say its weather compensation?..... Did you have to change the two-way valve on the boiler to radiator hot feed to a 3-way mixing with a feed from the radiator return??..Besides an outside temp sensor does it also have a temp sensor on the flow to the radiators (between first radiator in pipework & the valve for the rad circuit), & sensors on the flow immediately out of the boiler & one on the return immediately into the boiler?? As that's proper weather compensation...& I've had that system type in my home for the past 26yrs!

Yes, sudden & intermittent...& then it would go back to normal....I checked everything...fitting a new OEM sensor solved it.

Sounds like the PAS angle sensor to me..when mine started to go there were no lights on the dash.

Upgrading an old set of speakers, without changing the cross-over design is the best way to get more value & better sound without the risky "will it sound rubbish". That's one of the reasons why when I re-did my MA's (as linked to a few posts above) I did not alter the cross-over design..to prove how much of a difference/improvement can be made..... Mind you I spend a bit of time watching Danny at GR research...the build of many top end speakers is shocking. You are paying for the name & a glossy cabinet finish...yet the 3D waterfall charts show very bad sound....This is one of the best comparison videos:- WOW! Finally a UNICORN! The $118 Sony SS-CS5! - YouTube Here's another good one:- $4000 Revel VS $350 Wharfedale | The Results Might Surprise You! - YouTube

Brush & then smooth over..this after the primer & before the top coat.... Look around 4:29 here on the factory film of the MK7 Golf being built. HOW IT'S MADE: Volkswagen VW Golf 7 Car Factory Production Plant [GOMMEBLOG] - YouTube

If you want good low accurate bass & only a pair of speakers (no sub required)..a single large diameter woofer is required. You then need very heavy/solid cabinets to stop it from moving.... Reference Fidelity Canterbury These are not bad for size/cost..£8,995 fully built using the very good Tannoy HPD315 dual concentric drive unit (rebuilt)..& horn tweeters....32Hz to 19Hz....or down to 27Hz if near a wall...& 70kgs each!! Reference Canterbury Loudspeakers | Reference Fidelity Components Reference Fidelity Components | Facebook

I used to live in London in the 80's/& early 90's..& spent many a hour wandering the electronics road!! & sitting in listening rooms!!.. Bookshelf speakers don't go down that low a frequency, compared to floorstanders. So they don't have to cope with trying to stop low notes shaking the cabinet & messing up the mid range etc.. Its best to have a separate sub for the low stuff. Anyway most so called bass in modern music is artificial noise & not true musical notes. Most drum kits only go down to about 50Hz....bass guitars down about 35Hz.....its the Jazz stuff that uses a lot of double bass (down to about 30Hz) & a full orchestra that really pushes it low...Musical acoustics - Wikipedia My speakers only go down to about 42Hz...but that was before the mods to the cabinet. What has happened is that the low notes are clearer, i.e. I can hear the kick drums separate from the bass guitar, when they are playing the same note/time...same with jazz & the double bass...& they are faster..& keep up more with no overrun, or lag.. Monitor Audio is British, but most stuff is made in China....those nice capacitors that I used in my mods, are made in Wales!..

From the pictures of the underside of a MK8 Golf the two holes are there on the Multilink rear subframe..

Its about £60 to £70 I think now...

Yeah, I'm a bit like that with my "projects".........Easiest thing would be to do the cabinets as I did (deadening, bracing)...then reuse the existing cross-over & desolder the existing resistors & caps, & fit new better, but not as big/good as mine as it needs to fit on the original x-over board. You should see that to the left in the first picture of the thread...that will give you alot of bass improvement, & clear out the midrange. Most speakers including the high end stuff have bad bracing & not enough deadening to stop panel resonance. Then they fit cheap resistors/inductors/caps/internal cables & spend ££ on expensive drivers & recommend you spend ££ on expensive external cables.......Those electrical signals still have to pass through the cross-over components & if they are cheap, they will distort the sound, so that makes a mockery of the drivers & the external cables... If you want to see actual before & after sound improvements (using calibrated measuring equipment to produce 3D waterfall charts) the person/company I talked about in the thread was this bloke in USA... GR-Research - YouTube

The thing with older hi-fi is that the speaker surrounds deteriorate with age & the capacitors usually "drift" as they are almost always basic electrolytic. I have a nice complete B&O system from 1985, which will require most caps replacing & all the speaker cones re-foaming! I might swap to butyl rubber for the surrounds & fit some nice Panasonic caps, & maybe upgrade the speaker cross-overs to poly caps. When I got my new main hi-fi circa 2013 (Denon & Monitor Audio), I swapped onto proper bi-wire cables, & used Sorbothane pucks under the whole lot to stop vibrations. I then I "x-bonded" in star pattern all the metal cases to a separate earth cord to my heavy duty mains/spike/filtering block. No more static shocks, less dust etc, etc, sound openness improved...I hate double insulated equipment!! Mind you around Christmas time I modified this hi-fi!!. ..All the metal cases I applied Dynamat to the inside to stop panel vibration, this has made the CD player much quieter, & stopped the amp (class D) case making zizing/pinging noises as it gets hot! Anyway biggest change was when I really modified my speaker cabinets & cross-overs....I did a write up for the UK company where I bought the caps, inductors & resistors from..& its here on their blog..bit of a long read with nice pictures:- Monitor Audio Bronze BX2 Speaker Upgrade | HIFICollective

For those with the multilink rear suspension, your first "sound deadening" should be the installation of the OEM harmonic damper to the rear subframe, which cancels out most of harmonic resonances in the tubular rear subframe. This part was designed for this subframe when it first came out on the MK5 Golf. The part was not made available until the 2013 Audi A3 saloon..all due to penny pinching. My how to guide on it..all info in this here:- How to retro-fit the rear subframe harmonic damper from the Audi A3 Saloon (2013->) | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum Also for the multi-link rear suspension I recommend that you fit the MK8 Golf lower arm aero covers, again my how to guide here:- How to retro-fit the Mk8 rear suspension aero covers or stone guards to a Mk7 Golf. | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum