stever750

Mine is standard 220TSI, so no DCC or AWD. How well do the uprated dampers cure understeer though? That's where the RARB in my Octy made a huge difference. I wouldn't want to go too stiff and up in a leery oversteering monster, but just to tighten the nose a bit on turn in. I know it's got the XDS fitted, but as that's nowhere near as effective as the VAQ on the Octy I have just lost, so some form of under / torque steer will always be there.

Resurrecting this as I'm in same position - I want to swap pout the standard dampers and replace with Koni special active. I've a got an 18 plate sportline 220TSI hatch, presumably these are the correct parts: https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/1347023/skoda/koni-special-active-front-dampers/8745-1388.html https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/1347024/skoda/koni-special-active-rear-dampers/8245-1387.html No idea for the RARB, any suggestions? I fitted a whiteline to my mk fl octavia vRS a few years ago that worked a treat, so something similar in terms of result is what I'm hopeing for. TIA

Same for me, I'm not really bothered what it looks like, the less overtly sporty the better. I'm thinking RARB plus uprated dampers, something like FSDs for mine. Any thoughts on dampers? BTW how did your turbo replacement go? I read the saga on piston heads earlier (I'm presuming you use same name on both forums of course).

Resurrecting this because I've lost my beloved octy 245 project, and about to get a Superb 220. I'll sort out the suspension later, but a remap first. Only driven it for 30 mins or so, and it's quicker than I expected, but the wheelspin / torque steer is a bit unwanted. I keep seeing claims of 300ps and 440Nm after an S1, is this so? What about a race chips box (or whatever the good ones, are, won't go near DTUK again) FWIW, someone delete the nonsense about 0-60 times, its an FWD car ffs, so meaningless. 30-70 and 50-100 times are what you really need to know if straight line racing on the motorway is your bag!

Incoming, hopefully. Replacing my Octavia vRS 245.

Pretty peed I've lost my current car in an RTC, it was a 19 plate white with blackpack Octy vRS hatch 245. One of the nicest versions I've owned - no oil consumption in 6k miles, engine sounded great, handled well, eco impressive when taking it easy etc ect, a car I would have happily bought outright after the finance period. Anyway, I'm now about to replace it, andf since I really don't want to buy blind from a dealer the other side of the country, I'm very limited in choice, which is essentially as follows: - Superb TSI220 hatch sportline in Dragon Green (you won't lose one in a carpark for sure) ca. 8k miles - Another Octavia vRS 245 hatch in either white or red, similar mileage to mine at 15k - Leon Cupra 300 4x4 esate 17k miles - Leon Cupra 3 dr 300 9k miles I've owned versions of all three before so know what to expect, ie smooth but roly poly Superb, not a drivers car in any way in truth, the Octy is juts a great practical device, just enough fun on the B roads, but sensible on the M way, plus I know it's strong in a big prang; and the Leon is as quick as anyone wouold sensibly need on UK roads and conditions, but is pretty uninspiring place to sit for hours on end, and the eco isn't really part of the USP, especially the 4x4 version. I'm guessing latter is essentially the Golf R in a different suit So, I'm chewing the fat on this one, anyone else have any opinions, or experience; or anything else worth considering for a budget of around £25k used, as I need a replacement before the end of Jan for work.

My question was about the differences in the trim levels; FWIW I'm not going to buy a diesel again, I've had a few in the last decade and every time I regret it. I've owned a Superb 190 PS TDi for 42 months, and didn't feel the love much tbh. Partly because of the seats in the S EL Exec model that I had, not at all comfortable, and partly because I dislike the diesel and ad blue thing.

Sadly my 19 MY Oct vRS 245 has been trashed in a RTC, and whilst I could replace it with a similar car, I'd have to buy unseen from a dealer a trillion miles away, which I don't fancy. My local has a Dragon green(?) sportline 220 ps just in, which looks nice. It's not Octy vRS 245 for sure, but I'm unsure of valuation and spec differences? Quick search on Skoda used suggests most Plus have a 190PS engine, but I'm told the spec levels are much higher? I've had a Superb TDi previously so realise it's no sports car.

RIP one of the nicest cars I've owned, and planned to buy it outright at the end of the finance agreement. Luckily the three of us in the car were OK, just mild bruising; so the car did it's job: looked after us all. Just remember folks to stay safe, and the Octy is a relatively good place for that!

IME waste of money.

I've been comparing Tesco E10 and 99 RON over last few weeks on long (>100 mile) trips. There's no discernible difference in eco, I'm getting 39 - 44 from both fuels. How I drive, and the prevailing wind has a much bigger impact on the outcome

My own fault, I left a chicken salad unattended for about 3 milliseconds and our dog scoffed most of it, unfortunately large quantities (for a dog) of red onion. So, £60 vets bill later she's OK, but woozy and still a bit iffy, so I walked her around for ten mins or so, all seemed OK. I have covered the back seat with a waterproof cover plus several of the sick pads from the vets, and 500 yards from my house, she unleashed hell, missing all of the covers and pads and all over the rear door and footwell. I've cleaned up the worst, but there's an unsightly mark in the carpet, so wondering what to use on other than general bio washing liquid....

Do you recall the first road test reviews of the mk1 octavia vrs, the bright yellow one. It had stupendous acceleration times, so much so that it was rumoured and likely remapped beyond factory spec, and thus the myth was created etc. In truth VAG are no strangers to deceit and manipulation.....

I wouldn't be surprised if it made over 250 on 95. Most VAG engines seem to be understated wrt to power if you believe the various vag owners forum chatter!

Absolutely sure, unless the app was misleading. First time I noticed it was driving around town, when I stopped the rate at which it was reducing the soot level increased when I was stationary. In fact, if I booted it, the rate occasionally started to increase! Makes sense, as under acceleration you're generating soot, the ecu assumes this (remember, it's not directly measuring this). When idling under no load, there is enough 2nd injector fuel in the regen sequence to maintain the required EGTs. I observed this multiple times, and yes it surprised me at first, but then I thought it through and made sense. Tbh, if I had another diesel I would use the app continuously, that way you won't inadvertently switch the engine off midway through a regen, which is not good if its close to 100% soot level. To give an idea of how imprecise the system is though, I had occasionally had to do just that, turn off midway. By the time the engine had properly warmed up after the restart hours later, the soot level was over 100%, and still worked fine. Of course, the only way I could verify the function of the app was to check there was a regen taking place when the app was indicating it was, and every time I could check that (impossible at speed on the motorway) it was correct. Its a useful tool to monitor regen activity, I'm not convinced it's much use on predicting lifetime, though of course its simply relaying the info from the ecu, so use it accordingly; the point us that the ecu view of the DPF is possibly subject to significant error.

That's low! Mine was about 75% full at 75k miles. The problem is the ecu is making an indirect calculation of the values, the only true indication of a full DPF is it simply blocks up and the engine will go into limp. This is one reason why I'll never own a diesel engined car again, hopefully.

I managed this in my 19 plate vRS 245 hatch on Sunday, on "only" 99 Tesco, and that with the roof bars and a cycle carrier stropped onto them. Journey was from North Wales back to Pembs via the A483 and A40, in the usual processions of Sunday drivers and holidaymakers.... Oh, and that's with the Bridgestone all season tyres fitted too.

In 12 months of monitoring mine continuously, I make the following observations: #1 passive regen, happened very very rarely, and only on long uphill sections where the EGT was sufficiently raised for the ECU to recognise the the soot was being burnt (remember, the ECU does not measure soot directly, it infers it from the pressure differential across the dpf, and throttle position: drive harder = more soot, an Italian tune up NEVER took my engine into passive regen) #6 Occasionally mine would regen at over 500 miles, usually at 300 though. I never noticed a hardstop at 465. If you're concerned, search the forums for DPF soot app, it's free to download, and has multiple Brisky users judging by the length of the threads on it. In practice, the only way you'll choke your dpf is by constantly interrupting the active regen cycle, e.g. short start stop journeys. Once it's started, just let the car idle, it will complete the cycle, and faster than if you're driving it. The biggest problem is the accumulation of ash, and nothing stops that. A dpf has a lifespan of around 80k miles before it will have to be removed and cleaned or replaced.

Yes, that's a passive regen. Largely irrelevant, the car will initiate active regens when it thinks it needs to. Changes in soot = changes in exhaust pressure differential so no reason why remap will change DPF other than total life expectancy, but hey remap gives big improvements don't come for free! Edit after re reading A so called passive regen is the same as an active regen; the important threshold is the DPF temp, doesn't matter whether it happens from normal driving or a fuel cycle; both have the same result, an increase in the DPF temp.

I should add that occasionally under long heavy loads, the EGT will exceed the rehen threshold, which triggers the ecu into regen mode. From memory, it was around 500°C, and only happened on long uphill drags with passengers.

I got rid at 80k about 18 months ago. It was around 2/3 full at that point according to the ecu.

I had a tuning box on my vRS tdi for 12 months, and whilst it improved performance (no idea how much, never measured it) but it wasn't massive because I had to retard the settings due to constant EML and limp modes. You can drive a performance car with that level of unreliability, best thing I did was ditch it and get it properly remapped.

I had a remapped 184 vRS, and whilst it will produce more soot, the regen will simply be more frequent. I installed the dpf app and monitored my car over 18 months, never had a issue with blocked dpf. I didn't notice and obvious change in the distance between regens of mapped v unmapped. Just do it, unless your mileage is very low and stop start you'll be fine.

I just got a quote from LV for remapped Octy 245, it's a tenner cheaper than my current provider with stock. Can't get an online quote from A plan, but I can't see them beating £280 for business use 20k a year with a stage 1 map, with named driver with same cover.

Nick, I'm about to remap my 19 plate Octy. It's a used 245 hatch, with the "low" remap (for 95RON) from Revo. Is this something you can cover?