MarkyG82

Sounds just like the water pump thermostat sleeve issue. New pump time is my guess.

Bodywork change would be prohibitively expensive. I wouldn't bother with that side of it. Under body protection should be a straight swap/fit. Just need to find part numbers and a bunch of the he clips and screws. The ride height bit has been discussed a bit and the scout is I think a combo of longer (stiffer?) springs and taller tyres. The springs are an easy change. The tyres less so given the change in speedo. Maybe go a single size up in either width or height and live with the fact they are not scout size. Personally I would be on the hunt for a scout and in the mean time spend some effort on the current car to get as much for it as possible. Just remembered there are some MQB suspension lift kits available that would work too.

I change air filter annually and pollen filter biannually.

When popping to the local trails the bike goes on the back. With family or friends in tow it goes on the roof. On my tod for a weekend away it goes inside with the wheels off. Don't like the idea of stopping with the bike on the outside. Plus with only me in the car I don't have to put up with limited economy.

The DCC on the superb is the same (reduced) height regardless of other spec levels. So sportline that is usually 15mm lower is only 10mm lower with DCC. Is it the same with the Octavia?

Pretty sure that DCC is not levelling control. Just damping adjust. Should be able to get away with H&R (40mm) or eibach prokit (35mm). Worth noting that these figures are based on standard ride height and DCC is already 10mm down so they'd be 30mm and 25mm respectively.

Closing in on 16k miles on the current tyres on my GTE so I think this platform is reasonable on tyre wear. Still plenty of life in both front and rear and I generally swap tyres around in the autumn. I expect I'll need to change this time next year which will be around 24k miles in my usage.

Back on the service discussion. It's been mentioned before by a few of us that just because you have a full deal history does not mean that it's been serviced correctly. Just that whatever has been done has been done at a dealer and is recorded on the central system.

Read the service plan carefully. Most only cover oil change and inspection where due. Maybe a pollen orcair filter if you're lucky. No extras like plugs or diff/haldex oil is covered normally.

Those asking about which pedal box: DTUK box. Seems to be the default but there are a few others. I got it used and although they need a specific car entered on the website the pedal boxes are interchangeable. At least in my limited experience of using it on my 2.0tdi Octavia and now my Passat GTE. The guy before me had a golf gtd.

A pedal box may also help. I definitely did for my tdi. Made it more eager to change down and improved it overall.

The sets I quoted above list both cars with varying engine and drive configs on both sets. So yes they are definitely close. It's just frustrating that it's hard to find actual specs for the springs.

Looks good. I'm trying to decide whether to go for that set or E10-85-042-04-22. 02-22 is for superb iv and 04-22 is for Passat GTE. I'll try do some digging on spring specs I think.

Eibach lowering springs or standard height?

Against what has been said so far (including me) a mapped 1.6 could be a good option if remapping is your thing. Should get 145 out of a 1.6 with a nice smooth torque curve. Should then offer comparable economy to the 2.0 but with probably a better application of the power. My 2.0 was full to drive until I got it mapped. Wasn't a huge increase in power but the delivery was far nicer.

A 5 year old TDI on 47k is extremely low miles. Unless you know for certain how the car has been used I'd be thinking about a dpf clean with the garage as a start. Quite likely to have been bought as an economic tool then got rid of as a dpf was due to need attention.

Yeah me too. Was one of the things I looked for but unfortunately most of the standard Passat GTEs didn't get it. Then it came as standard on the superb iv but I couldn't afford new car prices. I also imagine most who get adjustable suspension set it to a known good value and forget about it. Unless they then track it but that is a different customer base.

You are not wrong. I only said what I did because a quality set of coilovers will allow pretty much any suspension possibility within its range of lowering. Many sets will offer something like 35 to 65mm as their range of lowering. Then you apply the correct spring for what you want and adjust the damping to match. Doesn't have to be crashy and hard. On the flip side of my initial statement my local guys I use (well known online) are fans of bilstein and H&R so that another side to the story.

2.0 is definitely less taxed than a 1.6 and you may also find that 2.0s are better specced. Certainly the bigger engine would be the way I'd go. Road tax is close on each too. My pre 2018 2.0 was £35/yr tax and anything after that would all be £145 regardless of engine so there really isn't a need for the smaller engine unless doing a lot of town driving. But then you wouldn't be looking at diesels.

I think if you went to a tuner asking for suspension advice you would end up with coilovers. Not a bad thing if willing to spend a bit (£2k+ ?) to get good performance.

Because for whatever reason it's not completing a regen. If the temperature control is out and the sensors are having a funny time due to the duff battery it'll be having a hard time knowing its arse from its elbow.

2.0tdi with overheating issue when not been running for long? Sounds just like a water pump issue. How many miles has it done? Most pumps seem to fail about 40-60k miles so usually have the cambelt changed at the same time. Fans running unpredictably on a TDI? Sounds just a dpf regen that either needs finishing or the car has done too many miles and the filter is needing attention. Again, how many miles? 100k+ combined with a couple of COVID years could mean a borked dpf. Battery light on dash? See above for charging issues. Again could be related to sitting still during COVID. None of this could be your fault. Just that you had a slightly compromised car to start with and you've inherited the issues.

Maybe build a hybrid setup with the original (new) shield with AM part as support for added strength. Maybe even an added section for some air flow management.

If the buttons match up it may well be a straight swap. Unless they are using slightly different setup with a different canbus. I'm sure someone will be along who knows. Out of interest how much are the wheels on for?

Are you trying that revving when stationary? Many of these cars have a low limiter when not in gear.