MarkyG82

When I fitted B6s to my octavia with stock springs there was a definite firmness added. On short low speed journeys it felt more jiggly, particularly when the shocks were cold (this could be cold bushes). Medium and higher speeds it was definitely more comfortable to the point that I felt fresher after long journeys (compared to stock shocks). The lowering changed the dynamics once again but that's a separate discussion. To answer your specific question: no harshness but a definite firmness.

The sel is likely to be torsion beam rear end where the vrs and scout is independent. The independent should be a more compliant ride but if the sel comes with 17s that will help. The slightly smaller wheels definitely seem to be sweet spot tyre size for comfort and performance.

The 190 is a particularly frugal beast compared to the other 2.0 TSI's. Even so 56 is a great result. If that is indicative of the long term you have definitely got a hoot map and engine. Just remember to give it a little now and then to clear the pipes.

What @skomazsaid. I fitted them nearer the bottom partly because it was easier to get to. And yes it sits a touch higher. No more than half an inch.

I fitted them on the back in probably 2 minutes each side including jacking up. Really easy job.

There are stories out there about wheel bearing failures caused by wheel spacers. The idea is it puts added stress on the bearing. If you put really big spacers on it would probably be a thing but most people don't go more than 20mm which is generally within the normal width of the wheel. Hence no-one has actually seen a failure caused by a spacer. That brings me to my comparison with the spring assisters. From a technical point of view they add stress to the springs but there are plenty people who have used them and few (if any) reports of spring failures due to them being fitted. At risk of being told my neighbours are about to catch fire, I have assisters fitted on all 4 springs at the mo in an attempt to simulate how it would feel with lowering springs. Only been a few days but it feels great and I have checked them a few times. Crack on I say. Oh yeah I have spacers fitted too.

As much as springs fail with assisters.

Gonna throw something out there. The chance of a spring failure with these is similar to a bearing failure with spacers.

How did it go?

They do a 7 speed wet box too.

Do Revo do a recode if you have any work done by a dealer that wipes it? Or a return for more coding sort of policy? You could change the exhaust and some of the inlet bits and get them to take another look.

1) No. MIB2 is plug and play. You have MIB1. 2) Not likely. Been a while since I looked but you'd be looking at roughly: Screen £100 Head unit £2-300 Component protection removal £150 Unit coding to match car £200

Look after it. Replace suspension part that wear out. Should be good for double what you have.

As ever, very helpful. Many thanks. I'll be ordering some prokit springs then. Suspensions in need of a rebuild as the garage who fitted the shock did a hash job. New bump stops/top mounts all round!

Somewhat related to the discussion so far, I am interested in lowering but don't want to ruin the ride. Currently have a whiteline rear bar fitted which solves most of the lack of turn in and understeer. However there is still an amount of unwanted transfer under transition. On my old car that was solved enough with springs. That was a torsion bar rear so roll bar options were limited. I have kept the stock roll bar so that's an option to go back to. Short version: is a stiffer roll bar too stiff with lowering springs (prokit probably)? Or, does a stiffer roll bar match well with lowering springs? Got special actives fitted if that makes a difference.

Is that lowered? Trying to decide whether to lower my Passat. Arch gaps are a fair bit bigger than that.

If you are regularly doing long trips you won't need a regen. It's certainly possible that you are close to life on the dpf if it wasn't driven very well (short journeys) prior to your ownership. 75k isn't overly long for a dpf. I think they should last well north of 100k. Especially if driven correctly.

Being a passat mine might be a bit different to the octavia. Probably closer to the superb. Will aim to remember to get a pic later.

@J.R. sorry, typo. Should have been "didn't".

My mapped 150 dsg was slightly quicker than my mates manual vrs. The dsg contributed to that.

You missed my meaning (unlike you). It was meant to read more about the warnings of some tuners who hunt for peak power which either burns through the turbo, drives too snatchy on power or both. As it happens both my mapped diesels did return more mpg because I used the power more. As for supporting mods for a "stage 1" map on a diesel? Don't worry about it. Diesels breath well as standard so no need for a performance intake or exhaust. If you were going further with the power output then it might help. But not with a simple map. I'd be expecting something like 180-185hp up from 148.

Maybe also mention to the tuner that you want it mapped more for economy. Doesn't have to mean no extra power. Just that it'll be optimised for smoothness etc instead of hunting for peak power figures which can be quite aggressive. I had similar maps on both my last 2 cars and they drove lovely.

Not at all "very different". Quite similar in fact. Had the sale been made with a generic £800 discount to get the business then yes I would agree with you. But the discount was offered on the basis that the dpf was a potential issue and covered the cost of repairs if needed. Noone is arguing about the law involved, just that in this scenario the deal had been made as a side step to that law and both parties were in agreement.

No it won't work. 2 bits of coding need to be done and neither can be done with consumer kit. First component protection removal by a dealer. Then coding to match your car by someone like pab567.

Also, imagine buying a used TV with a known potential problem which was given a discount based on said problem. Would you then expect the seller to repair/refund/whatever if the TV failed due to that problem. I would see it as a risk (sometimes worth it) and would expect to either repair or replace it myself. If you want a non-problematic product, either buy new or don't negotiate a discount. Both those situations would offer you more moral and legal grounding for any subsequent failures.