MarkyG82

Varta come recommended on here often. Don't forget to recode it. A single digit change in serial number is enough. All it does is tell the car there is a new battery and to charge it appropriately. Some have reported the car killing a new battery if not recoded. Not all though but not worth taking the risk IMO.

I certainly had mild running issues with my octavia 2.0 tdi that a charge of the battery helped solve. If you have access to a charger that would be my first step. Give it some juice then drive it for a few days to check. If it helps then maybe a proper battery swap is on the cards. Are you doing enough mid+ length trips to get power into the battery?

Thank crank. Worth knowing you can't turn it off at all now. In addition to my description of the usage above, it also rinsed the battery on my phone while connected wirelessly. Even with it in a wireless charger. It got really hot too. All of that might be phone specific but it's a pixel 7a so not abnormal.

From my limited experience of wireless AA you can't disable it. At least you couldn't on the hire car (honda?) I had in the states. Only ways past it were to turn off Bluetooth on the phone before getting in, remove my phone from the settings or plug it in. I used option 1 and 3 depending on what we were doing.

The issue with battery power is it might not backfill the lost charge. Especially this time of year. I reckon I'd lose about 5 miles range doing that. Mine being the previous gen so smaller battery I have a small enough range as it is. This morning after a few days of cold I had 22 miles on the gom. In the summer I get between 26 and 28 depending how I drive. That's with AC on. I had 7 miles left after 11 miles commute this morning due to the cold. It really hammers it. There's some mods you can do like insulation on the inside of the underpanels. Apparently it can help by 10% give or take. If we keep getting colder winters I might think about it. Should help with excess heat from tarmac in the summer too.

So the issue is likely that the car departure time is fighting with the ohme departure time. The precondition setting will not do anything with the car if it's set on the power point (ohme). You need to have some sort of signal to the car to tell it to warm up. It's the car that does the warming after all. Either have the octopus app talk to the car (you can't do this due to not having a subscription) or program the car and have that do all the work. That's the only way I got it to work. Otherwise different systems are fighting for control. Sometimes it might work but usually not. I have turned off automatic control in the octopus app. It means I don't get any additional cheap slots but the preconditioning is more important to me. Now and then I turn it back on to show the octopus servers I'm still alive.

What's the function? To stop rain water flowing sideways off the windscreen? Does it send the water up instead? How is this beneficial? Sorry for the many questions. Just trying to understand the purpose.

So you have a 1.4. that means you have the dq200 box with twin dry clutches. I believe they are hydraulically controlled. The wet system is a multi plate clutch. From a little digging I can't tell if the dry variant is multi plate or single plate. For what it's worth, I can't recall a story of release bearings or similar wearing out on one of these in 13 years of using briskoda or other similar sites. I'm not sure it's anything to be concerned about.

Best bet is to look up other phev superbs and see if other screens are available. Then try and find those part numbers on eBay etc. if it works then great. If not then worst case you've spent some money. Best case you can sell it on again. To clarify, mib2 screens are cross compatible with no coding needed. It's possible that mib3 is the same.

Hang on. Pretty sure the phev superb comes with mib3 unit. Do we understand the compatibility with the other systems? Eg. Within mib ecosystem you can swap around screens almost as you like. Mib2.5 is similar but less free. Mib1 you cannot swap screen sizes without changing the main unit. What do we know about mib3?

There's a similar issue with the older PD engines that sometimes showed in CR engines. The problem arose when the starter was worn and didn't turn the engine over fast enough for all the parameters to line up. The result was no fuel supply. It was made apparent by continuous cranking when the fluids were warm. Like you I tried many things to resolve it but finally the only thing that fixed it was a remap purely by accident. I'm not saying your issue is the same (from what you describe it's not) but a re-flash of a stock map image might help.

Don't get the diff (VAQ, LSD, etc.) and haldex mixed up. Diff is for the power handling across the same axel. Haldex controls the power to the rear on VAG AWD cars. Depending on system they are similar in technology but carry out different roles.

Go back to the mapper and explain the situation. Could be something they missed or an issue created by removing so many functions. This is entirely your choice but it's generally not recommended on here to remove the DPF due to it being an MOT fail. Rules in Ireland could be different.

Is this when the battery is full? Common issue with this platform due to there being nowhere for the electrons to go when pressing the brakes pedal. In this case you have to press quite hard to fully engage the mechanical brakes and it can feel like the car is pushing on like you describe. This is especially apparent as the brakes are usually cold at the time.

Yeah it was more about opening up the discussion about the differences in software and hardware. The software is very similar to the point that the wheels could be interchangeable. I actually have a wheel from my octavia that might fit. Only thing is the airbag probably would work. I would definitely prefer to have the thumb wheels. I might do some digging into compatibility.

There's definitely something that can be done. How widely accessible it is across models is another matter. It was either on here, SpeakEV, Rosstech or OBDeleven. I really should have made better effort to save it. At the time I thought it would be easy enough to get back to. I'll let you know if I find something. I don't have Lane assist unfortunately. Maybe I just need a session digging through the modules.

Morning all. Hoping someone can help. I am trying to find the coding needed for changing the ACC wait time. This being the time the car will sit behind another before automatically moving off with ACC. The stock setting is 3 seconds. I know the settings are in there somewhere but I have searched all the usual sites for a good few days and not finding anything. I can only assume it's the terms I am using for the searches. I was certain there was someone on here that altered the wait time. Can anyone help?

The software must be subtly different on the Passat then. I'm almost certain the call appears on the dash when it comes in thus allowing me to accept it reject via the wheel buttons. I also have a dedicated phone button on the wheel which does a few things: - if not already in phone "mode" it will take you there. - if on phone mode it will take you to the recents list. - a third press will call the highlighted number. The last two things can also be done via scrolling etc like in the superb. The thing I don't have which I used to use all the time is the ability to pause/mute from the wheel. The only way to pause an audiobook or music is via the touchscreen or turning the volume tight down.

Maybe this one is better @Ootohere? A bit more recent.

Provided you can get a car with RRP below £40k the £170 is not actually that much and the fuel saving far out ways the cost. Over "luxury" tax threshold and it adds a sting to the savings.

@Paws4Thot same size tyre is only part of the consideration. Wheel dimensions contribute too. If you have a 5th alloy with the same size (and spec) tyre then yeah all is good. A narrow rim or offset difference is not to be messed around with.

That's humourous and all but you should come back when you can demonstrate you can catch that diesel covered patch in front of someone who pulls out on you without the aid of the stability control or abs. I bet you put winter tyres only on the front too. Insults and snide remarks asides, it really does make a difference unless you know the pressure difference required to make them rotate at the same speed. A different tyre profile will rotate differently under load and the stability programs aren't designed to cope. One of the reasons the speed is limited is to allow the driver additional reaction time due to the unbalanced tyre layout making it unfamiliar. Not necessarily just the cars ability to function.

It's also physics. Unless the tyre size (spec) is identical and the wheel dimensions are the same, oh and the mass of the wheel is the same, then it won't be a matched pair and the car will handle like cack. Add in modern stuff like abs etc and the car will not be happy.

The plastic there is the weakest softest stuff known to man. Why they don't make it harder wearing I don't know. Glass I can understand would be bad in an accident but you have a massive slab of it in front of you anyway!

The left/right arrow buttons on the right side should let you get to the maxidot phone screen. This is where you can use the scroll wheel to find a number you want and push the wheel in to select it. Once in the call you should then see the option highlighted to hang up. Scroll down for other options. Fairly certain you can scroll right to the phone "page" while on a call (if someone had called you for example). Then the call function options should be available as above.