MarkyG82

You may well be right (you usually are). The B6/8 front bump stops are integrated due to the inverted design.Given your knowledge on the subject I don't need to explain the importance of bump stops in the overall setup of suspension. It could be that the stops in the Bx shocks are longer and more progressive. Thus not needing different lengths.

Not sure but it's not a DIY job if you need to ask her. If you are competent then there are plenty guides online. You need vcds or similar to do the pumping parts etc. It's not just drain and refill like an engine.

Yes, the shaft is 20mm shorter. The bump stop as far as I know is in the same place so the B8 travel is 20mm shorter also. At loaded static height the shocks will have the same compression travel available as this is defined by the springs. At full extension the B6 will have 20mm more travel so may have the ability to droop into holes while maintaining tyre to ground contact. That is where my preference for B6 comes from. In real use you may not notice any difference. The country lanes I drive on have some large pot holes and also things like hump backs so the additional droop is beneficial.

+1 get the service done. Then maybe get it done a second time in a arbitrary time before it is due (20k?). Assuming you got the car at a reasonable price doing the service earlier next time will strengthen your confidence in it's reliability. Then revert to 40k intervals. That would be my approach anyway.

I have B6 and also had them on my Octavia. Can recommend highly and not had any reason to assume B8 would be better. Both cars on eibach prokit (30-35mm drop). On the first car I was worried about the springs going slack at full extension but that's never been an issue even when jacking the car up. The only reason I would now go for B8 is for tighter body control due to less droop travel. For a family road car that's never really a consideration.

Lowering has a greater impact on the handling compared to a wider track. But the difference could be the stiffness of the springs rather than lower ride height on it's own. Only way to measure that would be to have height adjustable coilovers and run them back to back with the same spring/damper settings but at different heights. Tyres are probably the best value for money upgrade on any car to get what you want from it. Sticky for better handling etc. VAG cars respond well to pedal boxes. I find the dsg is more ready to change down and it makes the car more reactive overall. If you want a really affordable handling improvement, fit some spring assisters in the rear. The turn in will be a bit sharper. Just be aware of the potential for increased stress on the springs and the ride height might increase slightly. It's worth a try to see some of the benefits that a stiffer rear roll bar offers.

When you say "house charger" is that the slow plug (granny cable) or installed charging point? If the granny cable then it could be faulty. They are not known for their durability and they are also not advised to be used full time. Home electrics are not designed to supply that level of power for prolonged periods.

Certain electric tariffs have the ability to automate a cars charging schedule to align it with grid demand. It allows them to charge vehicles when the grid is in low demand and thus passing cheap costs to the user. It is set in the energy providers app. The only way I can think of to got round it without contacting the previous owner is to get onto the Skoda app and interrogate the settings. There should be some kind of permission in there allowing the remote access of the charging.

Check the timers you have in the infotainment. It could be they are set by the previous owner. Is it also possible that the car was previously part of octopus intelligent (or similar)? The stopping after a short time and not charging ever times sounds like the behaviour if had with my Passat on intelligent until I disabled the automatic charging. If the previous owner hadn't set up but has not removed it from their account, it might be fighting back and forth.

I have a box on my Passat. Previously had it fitted to my Octavia TDI. Before that bit was fitted to a golf gtd. I'd say there's a high chance it will fit but with the enyaq being leccy it might have a different plug. Maybe get a pic of the plugs and compare to others on eBay?

Did you make the change while it was plugged in? Maybe it needs a replug to redo the handshake to get the power supply correct.

Not sure on how they do it now but on the older Octavia the rear was done on longer springs and the front had spacers above the top mounts also with longer springs. I believe there are places that do top spacers for the rear too. The above combined with larger diameter tyres (you've done that already) gives the total height gain. If it were me I'd go for B6 shocks and longer or stiffer springs. Longer would probably work better with the stiffer shocks. Otherwise you have double extra stiffness. With the added height you might find that a stiffer rear bar is needed to combat some roll.

I'd be looking at a halo 9 or similar to go in that space. What OEM features does the existing unit have? Can it do stuff like TPMS etc?

The 12v should be charged while plugged in also. Probably not possible when parked up for a trip away.

Having driven the 1.4 and 1.5 in a few cars, the 1.4 is a much nicer engine so I would avoid the 1.5 if it were me. The reason the 2.0 isn't much different on economy is due to the engine being less stressed. It doesn't need to try as hard on the big car. I imagine it could use a lot more fuel if pushed though.

@UndertheRadar My main reason for having it in the cubby is due to the nonpro version not having bluetooth. You are right though, once fitted it's very easy to forget it's there. I take that as a massive tick for it being a good product that just does what you want it to with no fuss.

I have the non pro version. The little cubby by the right knee* is a good hidey hole. * My Octavia had this so assuming the superb does too.

The technology argument is the same for all cars that have been in manufacture for even a few short years. The battery condition argument is valid though. We don't really know yet how the batteries will survive long term. Unless you have a particularly bad cell in there somewhere, there's no reason why you can't just keep using it. You may have reduced range but the actual ability to charge and get some power from it will remain for many years. I certainly don't have a plan to bin it off. I also expect some other aspect of the car to fail before the battery or electric system.

If it's better feel you are after and the overall power is good, I'd recommend a pedal box. It's a kind of piggy back device that plugs inline with the throttle cable at the pedal end. Makes the response adjustable and can dial out any lag or sluggishness. Mine is on my second car now and I don't think I could own a VAG car without one.

Pretty sure almost all modern engines have covered timing belts. If it is the timing belt then you need it rectified.

Without even reading any content in the thread my first thought was a knackered battery and that they can test ok but still not be enough for the systems in the car. Modern electronics can be quite sensitive to voltage fluctuations. If the cold cranking drops the voltage to below the happy point then it can send the systems into error. The issue soon goes away and the systems will function correctly for a time. However, it's not good for them to be going through that too often. You may also find that the car runs better on a healthy battery. Glow/spark plugs perform optimally alongside other solenoids etc.

That's an interesting thought. Not such a drastic change compared to OPs original question and also in a more positive direction. The norm is to stick within 3% of the oem size and this is over that (3.39%) if sticking with 235 width. Maybe dropping to 225 as @leolito suggests is a good idea. Less draggy and more comfort. Although you do lose some rim protection.

If hunting for alternate sizes, I would suggest a change 235 to 245 rather than 40 to 45 profile. The profile is a percentage of the width. Adding a small amount to the width makes it wider and taller. This add comfort and rim protection without putting the speedo out too far.

I don't think it's a legal matter as long as the car is road worthy. However, if your insurance co don't like it they can void your policy thus leaving you driving illegally with no cover. So it's an indirect legal issue.

"Will they fit" is a great website fir this sort if thing. Assuming your insurance co are happy with it there are technical issues with changing to such a different size. Rolling circumference is roughly 5% smaller meaning the wheel will rotate faster for a given car speed (speed over land, not speed on the speedometer). For the same speed on the speedo, the car will be travelling slower. The speedo is connected to the rotating parts of the car (usually front wheel axle in some way). If you drive to the GPS speed then you will rack up more miles on the car than it has actually done. The ride height will be nearly 16mm lower. This could give better anti roll due to lower center of mass. It also will give less ground clearance. The ride will be less comfortable. More so than the standard 19s which uses the same profile tyre as the diameter is smaller. This means it won't roll over things as well thus feeling more of the imperfections. Apart from cost, the only benefit is greater acceleration due to lower gearing from the smaller outside diameter. My final word? I wouldn't.