MarkyG82

@HappySam "I think you'd only change tyres if you live somewhere that gets a lot of snow" Winter rated tyres are not just for snow. You absolutely get the benefit in all of the UK. It's even a legal requirement in some parts of Europe. I am an advocate for the right tyres at the right time and will encourage others to use all seasons, or have a second set, if they can afford it. The need for economy targets has led to new cars coming fitted with potentially unsafe tyres.

Typo by me. Should have said MIB2 can't do wireless which you confirmed.

I stand corrected. I did suspect there was an update (hardware or software) that introduced the feature. @Dieselgate do you know if your system is MIB2 or MIB3. As far as I was aware MIB was not capable of wireless connection.

This is also only in the iV model. Non-hybrid versions have mib2 or 2.5 that only supports wired connection for either phone.

If you have auto hold enabled and apply the parking brake when stopped but still in D, the lights should go out. Then you just have to press the go pedal and it pulls away. Basically it's a button to turn the brake lights off which I use most days.

Thread resurrection update!! Three years and nearly 30k miles on the special actives I have just spent some bonus money on a set of B6 shocks. I know I said I wouldn't fit lowering springs but I've had prokit set fitted for about 2 years. Also have a pair of spring assisters on the rear. This has helped with sharpening up the turn in with the rear roll bar set to hard. Getting the shocks fitted next Thursday so will let you know how it goes. After the initial honeymoon I've not been impressed with the konis. That's with stock height or lowered. They just don't feel predictable and they are hard when I would prefer soft and blow through the travel when I'd like more support. I should have gone B6 from the start but you live and learn.

@Rooted I don't think these cars have any sort of code that a user can enter provided it is not a third part item (sony, etc). Unless that is what you are talking about? @Timcooper55 If it's a skoda system and it's working now you should have no issues with it when changing a battery. Just you clarify, a non factory (still skoda) system can be retrofitted and coded to the car by a dealer or some other clever person like PAB567.

This is common across many brands. A colleague had a minor success with vauxhall when his parents Corsa threw a cambelt. It had been serviced by the same dealer since new. They failed to inform them the belt was due at the previous service only 6 months prior. He got them to cover all costs (via warranty). A rare win in such a situation.

Yes that's right but this is the mk3 section.

There is likely a strict line much like the dsg types and engine output. All VRS and 4x4 models have independent rear end. My 2.0 TDI elegance had torsion beam. It performed very well with B6 shocks and eibach pro springs. As far as I know, all models with smaller than 2.0 engines have torsion beam. With maybe the exception of 1.8. I'm not familiar with that setup. Technically the IRS could be swapped into a torsion beam car as they share MQB body design. It's a big job though and not worth the effort. Needs some points welded on and some others cut away.

What benefit do you get for recalibrating DCC? Pretty sure people in the past have commented that the system still works when lowered with no coding changes.

No codes needed for the radio. It's all hard coded and only a dealer system can change it.

A quick play with a spreadsheet shows about 19p/m for petrol and 14p/m for diesel*. In my experience you can knock a couple of mpg off for DPF so that adds 0.5p/m. The difference is there and you can gain bring the costs down if you can raise the petrol mpg to 40 which brings it to 16.5p/m. These are all based on average fuel prices published by RAC. You may find cheaper fuel in your area. * assuming average mpg of 35 and 50. Fuel prices at 145ppl/153ppl, petrol/diesel.

Indeed. We should cover all the bases. This I didn't know. You are a font of knowledge as usual. Torque must be mega low for a 2.0 TDI.

OP asking about Octavias (Octavii?) and the 1.8 is less common especially in dsg form but yes they are about with dq200s.

2012 car would have been a mk2. The 1.6 tdi and anything petrol from 1.5 and down will be a dry clutch DSG (dq200). Anything 2.0 will be a wet clutch dsg (dq250 probably going on the age of cars you are looking at). Although the dry clutch boxes are now better than they were, I would avoid a high mileage one personally. Then you have the manual boxes. At the sort of mileage you are looking at, they may well have been abused and in need of a new clutch. But that would be the same for all cars of that age and usage. If you are after the 1.6 for economy you might be better with a 2.0 tdi. The increased torque allows you to drive at much lower revs and can often produce better MPG. They also seem to be more reliable if you get one that has had the water pump done. It's a cambelt driven unit that most have both done at the same time. 1.4 tsi is a lovely engine that I still kick myself for not getting one on my own. There is also the argument over the DPF. All the diesels will have one unless illegally removed (assuming you are UK based). At high mileage it may be ok but I wouldn't want to take one on unless it was a good deal or it had proof of being worked on (cleaning or replacement). FYI a forced regen in a garage does not constitute a clean. To be done correctly I believe it needs to be removed from the car.

So it's possibly a DQ250 requiring 40k service intervals. If that was the first service then it may well have been taken too far. If first service for DQ381 then a little early but as @Rooted suggests, that may not matter as problems can occur early. I'd be getting it to either the place that did the service or a gearbox specialist before it gets worse. At the very least start the conversation as to what the cause might be. Us lot on the internet can be knowledgeable but this sounds like an expert is needed.

What's the box in a superb 2.0tdi? My Octavia was a dq250. @MickeyMouse what year is the car, how many miles on it, how many gears and when was the gearbox last serviced?

@SailorP The "blanking plate" is actually the front of the head unit. The screen in the dash is just the screen. I wouldn't concern your auto leccy with removing the unit. If you do you will pull out a box with a load of plugs in the back. As you have canton I believe that makes it harder to link up any additional source. It would also need coding to allow you to select a different source. All of which would like invalidate your warranty. By far the slickest route would be spotify or similar on the phone. Cheapest would be ripping the CDs and saving them on the phone. Another convenient option would be a low profile USB stick with it all saved and left in the car.

OT: The issue with selecting quiet tyres is the dynamic of the tyre might change depending on wheel size, car weight, tyre pressure, tyre profile, tread depth, car design....... It's an expensive game hunting for quiet tyres that perform to expectations. Potentially worth it depending on you attitude and driving habits though. FWIW the GTE and iV weight near enough the same as their ICE 4x4 couterparts so normal tyres are acceptable. To get the best economy in summer you massively compromise winter safety so a second set could be wise. On topic: Sounds like you could have some sort of issue with the gearbox. Is it at all possible that it's a driving style thing @Vlady? Does your heel come off the floor as you go over said speed bumps causing you to mash the go pedal and tricking the gearbox into 1st? Just trying to cover all bases.

Apart from the confusing cambelt situation all maintenance items are very similar between the two cars. Assuming purchase price is the same (iV will likely be more for the same spec/condition) it really comes down to what you want from the car and how you use it. Lots of short journeys or commute of 10 miles each way suggests the iV. Pretty much anything else you'll be better off with the 2.0. Annual tax is the same. I get closer to 50 on a run with some charge. No charge and you might get as low as 45. The amount you charge really affects the apparent mpg (still need to pay for electric). More charge and shorter journeys will give much higher mpg.

Ok, 28k @3 1/2 years is lowish. Then you are adding 22k in 4 1/2 years. Seems a bit low and not what I would use a DPF equipped car for. Less than 5k/year even with the odd long journey is too low. If all your miles were long distance then it would probably be ok. Then skoda suggested you have a faulty sensor. If the specialist just looked at the sensor data without actually looking inside the filter, the false reading could show the DPF is ok. It's entirely possible that you have both a blocked filter and bad sensor. I'd take it back to the specialist and tell them what skoda have said. They might be able to clean it out for you and get a bit of life back.

At what age? Was it 6 years old with 28k? or 1 year old? My point is that if the car wasn't driven with the DPF in mind for it's entire life then at some point it will become an issue earlier than expected. Two extremes: 1) You bought the car low mileage so the DPF hasn't been looked after before your ownership. 2) You bought the car but are not doing enough miles to look after the DPF.

As this is a UK based site and such an activity is illegal for road use, you might struggle to find the answer you need here. Maybe try contacting Darkside Developments. They race such engines so should have the knowledge you need.

Maybe your usage is on the cusp of being acceptable and has now reached a turning point. Given the low mileage, are they all yours or did you buy the car used? Maybe the previous owner wasn't as sensible as you regards the DPF.