MarkyG82

Clearly the Superb needs to be 4x4 variant. If front drove then the gold R bar won't fit.

"H" reg? Assuming it's not 1990 or even 1969. Is H just the first letter and it's actually 63, 14 or 64 plate.

@pab567 to the rescue? By central electrics unit is that the headunit in the glovebox or are they referring to another unit? If it's the headunit then Pab will be able to help you with a more affordable solution.

I wouldn't touch it.

Have used storm quite a bit. They changed ownership in the last year or so and concentrating on day to day work rather than the tuning stuff the previous guy did. I trust their work over anyone else in the area that I used. Not used the phirm but plan to contact them regarding my DSG service as they are one of the only places that do the filter on the hybrid setup.

Nope. DCC and steering response are separate.

Please double check your spec. As far as I know there's been no 1.9 in a MK3. As for your issues, how old is the battery? Could be low voltage gremlins as they play all sorts of havoc that is really hard to diagnose.

Source? As far as I know the interval has changed to no years and 140k depending on who you talk to. Some dealers are even saying no mileage limit. The time period is definitely the one that is dropped though unless you have other info.

It will fit and function just fine. You'll need to select tyre size well though. Assuming 235 wide, you'll need 35 profile which is very low. I hope you don't have rough roads or potholes to drive through.

I think It's related to brake pedal position? I found in my octavia that releasing the pedal as you get near stopping helped avoid the engine cutting out too soon. Also make for a more comfortable stop.

To be clear I am not talking about adding flex to a car. I am talking about adding stiffness. Unless thought is applied when adding said stiffness you might direct forces to unwanted areas of the chassis without realising it. This could negatively affect the handling or even the structure of the car. I'm not saying don't do it, just think about what is needed before spending loads on a car. At the same time, if you know what you are getting and that is what you are after then have at it. We all like a mod here and there.

There's quite a bit of flex in cars that can be removed by adding these sort of things. In my opinion most road going cars will suffer if too much stiffness is added.

Have you checked all the timers have been reset/turned off? I find that you have to push the cable in in one swift motion. Then you should hear the clicks. The fact you had to unlock the car to get the cable out is a good thing. It shows the lock is working. Assuming you were a little flustered and not wanting to try multiple things in the middle of a supermarket carpark.... Check the timers and try again. There should be 2 buttons by the plug hole. One with a little plug end and one with a timer symbol. Try pressing the plug one next time as that should bypass any timers set. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

The phev remaps quite well. If you go for racing line or one of the European maps then it unlocks the full electric power in sport mode. As standard the motor puts out about 100ps. This is limited to 50 or 60% in sport mode depending on generation of car. So with the engine map making about 185 from 150 and the electric at full power the sport mode jumps from 220 to 280 give or take. Delivery is very strong and the torque is huge. Not great for a front driven car but once you get used to it you'll be fine. If you go for pretty much any other map it will only raise the performance of the engine. It's good but the increase with the motor is the big gain. There's even been discussion on other forums about an electric unlocked map that leaves the engine alone.

I'd say yes to a new battery if you have needed a jumpstart a couple of times but does seem early at 5 years and under 40k. Modern cars do tend to get gremlins when the battery starts to fail. It could be that. I don't see why you would lose any updates or that you would need any update in the first place by the dealer. Sounds like false info that had a happy coincidence of the problem being fixed. My suggestion would be to find a local trusted independent to look at the car. Maybe get the battery chacked by someone who knows what they are doing to confirm it's failing. A new battery will need the car coding to make it aware of a new unit. Quite a simple job and should take no more than 15mins (inc battery change) by the right person. Then maybe look at why the battery is failing. Could be age, could be how you use the car. If you leave it for long periods then do lots of short trips it will kill it in no time.

Please can you confirm if this is the iV or IV (PHEV or 4th gen superb).

As far as I remember the sport line non-dcc is 15mm lower. All DCC equipped cars (sport line or not) are 10mm lower. This is a design intent constraint of the DCC shocks. Doesn't mean different length springs can't be fitted. Just that the design intent dictates no variation from the factory. It's the same on the Octavia and probably on all other vag models too.

Does it change as the suspension goes through the travel?

To summarise: - New wheels with no spacers would sit 6mm closer to the strut than standard. This is small and should be ok but worth checking - Old wheels and spacers have a staggered track front to rear. New setup would not. Front would poke out more, rear less compared to now. Skinny spacers (5mm?) would solve this and also push away from the rear suspension. What is the end goal? Just wanting new wheels (not a bad thing) or a performance upgrade. If performance then dropping to 18s with greater tyre wall height would be a better bet. Bigger and wider wheels are heavier and more prone to damage.

For a minute there I thought you had metallic green leather!!

Does this genuinely complete the regen or are the fans running after shutoff?

Currently at 35K suggests you have time either way. I'm sure Root will be along to mention the lack of service staff understanding. My view is they say 40k regardless of DGS type. I've even witnessed them insisting it's 40k on a DQ200. Youa re doing the right thing I think. I'd find a good local indy to do the DSG when the time comes.

I have 235/40 on 8.5 and they are about as stretched as I'd like to ever go. Lower tyre, narrower tyre and wider rim is asking for trouble IMO.

What are you doing to let it complete?

Another thing to add. I would be weary of resetting the bite points in the dry boxes as the process is quite intensive and loads the clutches up. The heat generated would make me nervous with no cooling medium on the clutch pack.