MarkyG82

There's a fair amount that contributes to the charge. Front desk staff need paying. Site lease charges. Electric costs. Training of the staff (technical and non). Insurances. Service staff wage. Etc, etc. The time taken for a pollen filter will be more like 1.5 hrs. Initial booking, receiving the car for service, moving the car into the bay, getting the parts from stores, FITTING, waste of old filter, putting car back into temp storage, keys back to front desk, call to customer for collection, collection. This might all seem trivial but someone has to pay for it. They are there to make money from us as car owners. Makin sure it is done correctly is the most important thing and that takes training. If you paid someone to change a filter and it was done wrong, one of the first things asked will be who did it and are they capable.

As @Ootohere suggests, a FMDSH doesn't mean it has received the correct maintenance. In this case I think some stuff has been ticked off and not actually done. Not necessarily a lemon but definitely a dealer to avoid.

My guess is it's the restore from backup that has caused it. I tend to start from fresh whenever resetting a phone to avoid this kind of thing. To fix I would go to apps in settings menu, find android auto and clear all the data. You should get a prompt to unlock your phone next time you plug in for AA in the same way as the first time. As an aside, are you aware that your phone is no longer supported for software or security updates? It's entirely possible that you could have got a more up to date second hand phone for not much more than you paid for the new battery install. I'm not going to tell you how to use your phone just to aware and not to use any kind of banking on it. That includes paying for anything in an app or on the web. Hope the above helps you out.

The footprint of the boot is identical to the standard car. The superb has a cavernous boot so I wouldn't worry about it. I do have a roof box but the Passat is closer to Octavia in boot dimensions.

If you are used to having the false floor in the upper position it's the same in the hybrid. There's still a small space under the floor. Probably about 2/5 of the original space spread across the very back of the car and either side of the tank. We certainly don't miss the space in our Passat gte. That's coming from an Octavia estate where I had the false floor in the raised position the whole time too.

Just thought I'd add some info and corrections. The battery isn't under the boot but under the rear seats. The fuel tank would normally be in that spot so that is moved to the boot. If you normally keep the boot floor in the upper position you don't lose any space. However, the space under the false floor is about ⅓ the volume compared to a regular estate. Next is the use of the granny charger. This really is only designed for occasional use. If intended for prolonged use you definitely should look into at least an inspection of the ring you plan to plug it into. Maybe even a dedicated feed. This is a far cheaper solution than a charge point but should in theory cover you for fire risk. That risk is real and shouldn't be sniffed at. As for charging speed, the granny is max 3kw but does all sorts of throttling resulting in the 5hr+ charge time. A proper charge point will kick out 3.6 consistently (7kw is for a full EV) which is where you get the 3.5hr charge. They are more flexible. Make the house more attractive for buyers and you can even take it with you if you move. Oh yeah, much safer too. As for the original question, unless you get some sort of kick back via company lease scheme etc, the running costs will likely be similar to a regular non-hybrid car. The handling will be worse with the added weight. The car is actually about the same weight as the 2.0 4x4 version but without the benefits of power to all wheels. If you are absolutely never going to charge, I wouldn't bother with the additional cost of the car. You need to charge as often as possible to get the most from these cars.

The change in profile has a bigger affect to height than the width. The width will give you most of the protection you need. Another option would be to change to 18s which would give you an all round more comfortable ride while not impacting performance.

Officially the process calls for a new bolt each fitting. I have fitted a poly version to two cars so far with the original bolts and not had an issue.

So you have a different cable too? Did you buy the cable to fix the problem or did it appear when you fitted it? Why did you get a new cable?

I'd give @pab567 a shout this is his bag. Just to confirm, - your original screen is dead. - you tried a known working screen and it doesn't work. For clarity, the screen is just that. It has some buttons but no smarts. All of the computing is done in the glovebox unit. I think you are on the right track with eliminating things. It's rare that one of those cables would fail so that to me points to the head unit unfortunately. Pab will have some ideas I expect.

I've done it. Not in the rain but in the dark. 8 was on my own mind. Had the family been in the car and it taken a while to find the hole, I may have called for assistance. The GTE has no practical space for a spare of any size. Not does the Hyundai EV that is our other car. A worm kit is my first line of defense. Then a can of foam. Then roadside assistance. Somewhere in there would be a call to family or friends depending on where I am at the time and the time of day.

As above. B6 or B8 are the same but the B8 is shorter shaft. They are damped slower for a sportier ride but are still smooth. Either will work with your springs but IMO the B6 would be a better choice. When I did both my Octavia and Passat I spoke to bilstein who suggested the B8 is optimised for 30mm lower than stock. You should change all 4 if going the B6/8 route. The B4 is stock equivalent so a pair of those will work alongside the remaining pair. Although it sounds like all 4 could do with replacement anyway. For clarity, the sport line suspension is lowered by the spring height and not the shocks. You could fit stock length springs and bring it back to standard height. DCC suspension is another matter. I've not been able to find details on that. Standard ride height and sports ride height is the same if both had DCC.

@NZsteve I've not heard them called bacon strips before and been in MTB game for 30 years. Maybe it's a circles thing. As in who you hang out with. Also worth noting that the noodles/worms/bacons you get for car tyres are a fair bit larger than for push bikes. I have a kit on each of my gravel and big bikes as well as for each of our cars. The car kit worms are at least double the diameter. I'm sure many holes could be patched with the bike version but I'd be looking at getting a car specific kit in your shoes.

I carry one of the worm kits in both our cars. Had to use it a few years ago and that tyre did around 4k miles on my repair. I actually forgot about it till the tyre guy commented when changing the tyres. Not used a foam can but have heard stories of the tyre being a right off from the glue buildup. From my experience of one event I still have no issues recommending the worms.

Front B6 and B8 shocks have bump stops built in so it's only the rear you need to worry about. I can't remember precisely but it's possible the originals fit so getting new original ones should be good enough. You should be able to fine the shaft diameters online somewhere to help make the decision.

That's a nice deal. Enjoy the cheap running.

I have mine fitted to my Passat and previously had it on my Octavia. The guy I got it from had it on a golf gtd.

Should be easy enough for anyone with vcds or obdeleven. Pretty sure it's been done by some on here.

From experience replacing for new won't solve the boat feel. You need uprated items for that. I have a whiteline rear roll bar. I'd recommend new drop links when doing the bar. Getting it all assessed is a good shout. Just make sure you tell them your plan. Don't let them talk you into fitting OEM parts. Apart from shocks. Stock DCC should be good enough if you don't want to spend too much. There's a coding hack that changes the ride setting to a slider too. It has the benefit of making the hardest setting harder and the softest softer.

Oh I didn't realise it was DCC. That's the reason the cost is so high. In theory the B6 is serviceable. It should also last longer. Maybe look at tuning the suspension first? As a check cycle through modes to see if the ride changes. If it does then they should have some life left. Then check all the bushes are good. Next I'd be looking to swap the rear roll bar. If that's not enough then you have the choice (or both) of new shocks or lowering springs. Both will help control the roll. But within that you have shock selection and lowering height.

@Kt1966 you will definitely benefit from cheap running. If you aren't already on a cheap overnight tariff I suggest you move over to it to make best use of your car and house batteries. With cheap charging @SurreyJohns calcs above would be needing a rework. It costs me roughly 3ppm on electric compared to 15-20ppm on fuel. So the £150 to £110 would be more like £150 to £50. Clearly this depends on how you use the car. One benefit of short local runs is not running the engine so less risk of it not warming up.

How many miles has it done? The stock shocks are functional at best even from new. I believe they are sealed units so replacement is the only logical option. Are you on DCC? £1300 seems a bit steep. I think I paid about 650 for my last set. Shop around and get the fronts and rears from different places if you have to. Got mine from 2 different sellers on eBay and they actually came direct from the same source in Germany.

Passat gte here. Same platform but I have the older smaller battery variant. On your commute distance it will just keep going and going on EV mode. It might start the engine now and then to clear the pipes but I have done 2200 miles without filling the tank before with no engine starting.

A moderate tune as @Ootohere suggests is more than enough. I would suggest a pedal box to improve the response and some tasteful handling mods. Lowering springs and a dogbone insert should be enough to improve the feeling. Check the age and condition of the shocks and brakes. Firstly though, get the oil changed with oil filter and air filter. New spark plugs and brake fluid too. Next would be to get the bushes checked for cracking. Tyres is a good starting point too. No point doing anything to your car if you can't stop, turn or go.

B12 is usually just a kit comprised of B6/8 shocks and Eibach pro/H&R springs. This can be put together yourself and allows for more tuning of part selection. Can recommend B6 for this car. FYI the rear on a 1.4 is torsion beam so no proper solution for rear roll bar. I had B6 fitted with Eibach pro springs to my 2.0 tdi estate and it didn't need a roll bar. That had the same rear setup. Lots of people have said that you need B8 if lowering but I have done it on two cars now with B6 with no issues. Bilstein also say you can moderately lower with B6.