MarkyG82

The DSG reset is a red herring. It doesn't change any driving characteristics and the DSG does not learn. What it does do is adapt to varying driving conditions over time regardless of if you reset it or not. The reset you get in OBDeleven/VCDS is clutch point adaptation that can have affect on how the gearbox shifts. However, it will return to how it responds during normal use. If you drive it with harder acceleration more often, then it might be more eager to change gear. If you drive more gently it will be a little more sedate. No amount of resets or adaptation will change that. If you are wanting faster shifts then it either needs a service or TCU remap.

This is one test but not necessarily conclusive. Another test is to get up to a cruising speed (anything above 20mph) go into a highish gear for the speed and plant the throttle. The rev should change in line with the speedo. If it increases out of line with the speedo then it's slipping.

As above. Is the clutch bite quite high and can you tell if there is any slip? Could be that the car was used around town and the clutch has had a beating. There are a few solutions for the throttle pedal feel. If you have access to VCDS or OBDeleven you can change the throttle profile to Audi. This sometimes messes with other things so make sure you know how to get it back to normal. The other fix is a pedal box. This gets plugged inline with the throttle pedal cable (electronic not mechanical) and allows you to alter the application of power. You don't get any additional power but it can transform how the car feels and I can definitely recommend it. As it's not a performance mod, many insurance companies don't charge extra either.

I'd be getting the DSG done asap then. Then maybe again earlier than the 40k period. Maybe 25-30k just as a precaution to ensure it's happy.

I did the rear bar on my Passat. Hardest part was the drop links. I actually did it with the stock springs and not jacked up. Just a bit of swearing and wedging myself in under the car. Once past the bumper there's a surprising amount of room. I don't have the drive shafts and diff in the way though.

As you allude to I would be taking it off to clean it. However, unless the car was high mileage (120k+) I would be considering my need for a DPF equipped car. If your regens are too often then you either have a high mileage hero and it's simply coming to the life of the DPF or you are not doing enough of the correct type of driving. I'm an advocate of using good fuel to prolong the life of the engine and associated parts but there comes a limit to where you need to switch to a better solution.

Yeah 6.5mm closer to the running gear from a starting point point of a narrow rim should be fine. 45 to 40 should be fine.

Just to double check. You currently have 40 and going to 45? With half inch wider rim? That would make it 17.5mm closer to the suspension. Not something I would risk.

If going for different offset go for a smaller number. A higher number will push the wheel towards the suspension particularly if going for a wider rim.

Take a look at OBDeleven. Far more affordable than VCDS and 80% of the functions. Make sure to go for pro version and ignore the inbuilt apps. There are stories of the apps breaking things and they don't keep a record of changes. Coding changes via pro yourself keeps a record, at least it did last time I made significant changes.

I think with my roof rack for full size sheets and a bit of mail order material I can cope without this new tool. This makes me sad. We all need a new tool day!!

Plunge saw AKA track saw. Its a circular saw not dissimilar to a normal circular saw but has a plunge function and a depth stop. Its so you can place is on something plate down and the blade returns back into the body. My description sounds a lot more basic than it is. They are very capable tools and usually run along a guide track. This ryobi one I'm looking at is a kind of mini one that doesn't use a track. I have a small portable guide rail that is perfect for in the car alongside it. Just don't want to get the saw if it's a novelty use once type of tool.

Hi warrior. Not really. It's a small circular saw (85mm blade) that has a plunge function. It comes with a selection of blades for metal, wood or stone. My main usage will be rough breakdown of sheet material. I do wonder if a full size cordless saw is a better option due to the power.

Hi all I keep eyeing up the Ryobi multi material saw. It's like a mini plunge saw. It would be useful for trimming things and cutting sheets of material outside Wickes etc to get in the car. Does anyone have one or have any experience with one? For reference I have a quite a few Ryobi tools a batteries. Also some Milwaukee M12 bits. The only cordless saw I have is an M12 jigsaw so not great for cutting sheets up. I have a table saw, a circular saw and a track saw, which are all corded so not suitable for breaking down sheets in a car park.

Belt and pump is the big one. DSG every 40k too. Worth checking if it was done around 40k. Otherwise it's the usual stuff. Does it drive straight. Have the brakes been done. Fuel filter. Air filter. Brake fluid. All tyres the same model and some tread left. I'd sooner buy a car with worn matching good tyres than new mixed/cheap ones. Not sure if there are usual rust sites. These cars are much like other modern ones and don't rot too bad. Does it have any kind of service history?

Pretty sure all superbs have IRS.

I use them to get some air flow in the car and turn AC off. Can be the difference between the engine running on my commute or not.

That's the roll bar link. If you raise both sides of the car you might get away with not undoing that.

Should be able to do it with just unbolting the bottom damper bolt. Might need to raise both sides otherwise you'll be fighting the roll bar too.

This sounds identical to my 1.9 but I thought the issue had been sorted on later cars (non PD). On mine it came down to some odd coding where a few things combined caused it to not apply fuel. Those being; above a certain temperature; starter a bit worn and not able to crank above a certain speed; maybe one more but I forget. I tried a refurbished starter, new battery and earth points, a bunch of other things. In the end I lived with it as I learnt that a crank after the initial crank would wake it up and kick it into life. Easy enough with a key start. Not so much with a button I expect. Then I decided to get a remap. Totally unrelated. The issue was solved. Never came back. Had a chat with the tuner and he reckoned it could have been something picked up by the guy who created his base map. My suggestion would be to try a map of that's of interest to you anyway. Clearly that is a specific solution that not everyone would want. I'm sorry I can't offer any other advice. You might get lucky or like me chucking a parts cannon at it and still not solving it.

There are audi R/S3 ducts that fit on the front arms to direct air to the back of the brakes. Apparently works quite well.

You got Audi brake ducts, braided lines and fresh high temp fluid?

@globalste Just phone up and say you are fitting them to a Q2. I'm sure You can get a pair (or single) springs from ebay. I was going to do that but found a good enough set targeted at a 4motion passat.

Take it to an independent for a better price.

Electrical gremlins on these cars are often caused by a failing battery. As above get it tested and not just by a guy with a multimeter when the car is off. Check it off load, engine running, just after running, a while after running at a few points in time. Basically try to get an understanding on how it charges and then how it recovers. If it's the original battery then 10 years is a long time for a modern car with stop start.