MarkyG82

Make sure the cable is a good quality one. Make sure you have the data mode set correctly on the phone. Make sure your phone actually supports Android auto. A Huawei may not with the shenanigans with trump stopping Google access. Maybe find a friend who has it working on their car and try your phone in it and get them to try their phone in your car.

No it won't. Tried it. Stopped, placed in P and turned off. E brake didn't engage.

Tried on my way home today. If you turn autohold off the parking brake doesn't engage automatically at any point. Shifting to P or even turning off only applies the parking pawl in the gearbox. Root, you say autohold doesn't hold the car. That's exactly what it does do no?

The old 1.9 had a similar issue starting when warm. To do with the starter not able to crank fast enough so the fueling system won't pump. Turn over once. Back off the ignition then crank again and it fires right up. Tried a refurbished starter, new battery, new crank speed sensor. The only thing that solved it was a remap randomly. Was happy to have it fixed but lived with it for circa 2 years.

See @Bap33post above. Seems that parking is affected by the autohold setting. Understood re the actual application of the brakes. Parking/handbrake has always been rear only as far as I can tell?

Good to know. Assuming the coding is the same you have to have a warm engine for it to cut out in GTE/sport mode. Also need to be doing something like under 45mph. Over that and it will stay running. Also it always runs when applying throttle no matter the load. Hybrid mode puts more emphasis on using electric and shuts the ice off at any speed, even motorway cruising. My GTE button is to the left of the stick. May look into relocating it.

I'm sure someone will be along soon with some relevant info. If you set the thread title as something closer to the problem you have you might get a better response.

Have you seen the torque curves of the 1.5 and 1.8? Very similar up to higher revs where the 1.8 carries on a bit. It's in a rev range where most dont get to and certainly would want to regularly. It's especially limiting with the dsg on both as the gearbox limits the output. I would suggest they drive in a similar manner. 1.8 might not be taxed quite so much being a bgger capacity but the 1.5 is perfectly capable.

I have taken to driving in GTE mode to manage the battery level as I find the charge still drops at a pace when in hybrid mode. It's far easier to hit the go faster button for a bit then to cycle through the menu to battery hold or whatever. Have also done some tests on long runs in GTE mode and found that as long as you have a good charge remaining the MPG is basically the same as hybrid mode. Just be careful of the adaptive cruise as it's much sharper in GTE mode than the soft setting I have in individual. Insert Sport where I use GTE. Otheriwse should be the same. Do you guys have a dedicated sport button or do you have to cycle/select it?

So does the e brake still apply when autohold is off?

1.8 is a solid engine. Will always drink more compared to the more modern 1.4/5 that often have cylinder deactivation under light load. One thing to be aware of is all those engines come with the dry clutch dsg. Low torque (as mentioned already) and no recommended service regime. The oil (2 types?) can be changed however. I'm sure there will be someone along who knows more about it. All I know is I'd be going for a manual with those engines.

2018 car so 4 years old. Main 12v battery could be on the way out and it's not uncommon for gremlins to appear with a low voltage in the main system. If you have a charger I'd give it a boost. The chances of 4 coincells from 3 manufacturers being out are very unlikely. If you have not had an issue with the fob up to now I'd been inclined to look at the car itself.

There may be a few things that you can't view. However, service intervals can still be got at via vcds it similar. Virtual cockpit was not available at that age of car as far as I know. Canton may be an issue. Particularly in an L&K as many of those had them as standard. Sounds like a high spec car so quite likely. TPMS is an important one as you need to be able to set that as a user. Some of the android units had those settings available when I was looking for the Octavia. Incidentally there is a good thread in the Octavia section on this sort of unit.

https://www.joyingauto.eu/skoda-superb-2015-android-car-stereo-replacement-android-9-inch-4g-head-unit.html

OEM integration with settings. There may be some settings you can get to with an aftermarket system but without looking at specific models it's hard to say for certain.

The screen may be compatible (due to being Columbus). If it is then you need to replace the head unit in the glovebox. Looking at £300-400 minimum. Then remove component protection at roughly £150 at a dealer that wants to play ball. Then get it coded to the car at roughly £200 by @pab567. Costs may have changed so these are guide lines. Looking at £600-1000 total for a low end unit. £1-1.5k for a replacement Columbus. More if a new screen is needed.

Ah no. It was a 2.0 TDI estate with torsion beam rear. Ran it on stock springs for a bit and then on prokit. Both were good in their own right. Lowered it was quite stiff but stuck to the road and bordering on zero body roll. Stock height it reduced the roll, pitch etc and I found it more comfortable than stock. Wheels dropped into dips better and felt more composed. I get none of that with the actives. Needed a stiffer rear roll bar to improve the turn in and I still get a fair amount of body roll. I still have the stock shocks. I could get lowering springs to go with them. I'm not convinced that lowering with the actives will be a good idea. Part of the issue is the weight of the car being a plug in. It's something like 250kg heavier than a standard model. Larkspeed have the B6s at a good price. I might do the swap later in the year. Also the garage that fitted the actives did a bad job. One of the bumpstops is upside down and they split a dust cover. My overall experience has been off.

I think I prefer the consistent support of the B6. The actives feel less reliable in their ability to control the wheel movement. When I fitted the B6s to the Octavia it was an instant improvement. Call it 8.5-9/10. In comparison the actives were about 4/10. Compared to 2/10 for the stock. They are better than stock but not as confidence inspiring like the B6s. I'm still considering swapping them out.

Yes the cd part is the main head unit. Think of it like a pc with separate monitor. The head unit needs coding to the car and then the screen can plug in. Older units pre 2016 need their specific screen. 2016 onwards have some cross compatibility but not backward compatibility (as a rule). All the info is in this forum if not this thread.

No you can't swap that unfortunately. For a 2014 you will need a matching screen or a full system as detailed in this thread.

Was it a full width speed bump? 45-50 kph sounds on the fast side for something like that and I'm not surprised it made some unexpected noises. You may find that your tracking is out now and /or at least one bush has been crushed a bit. Might be worth getting your tracking done.

4x limited edition Seat fr wheels in same fitment as Octavia vrs wheels. 18x7.5et51 With 225/40/18 Goodyear efficient grip performance all at least 7mm tread so pretty much new. .

Oh yeah there is a difference between theoretical suspension design and real life when you have varying conditions. Critical damping for one system might actually be quite uncomfortable in use. My experience with push bike suspension suggests marginal underdamping offers better comfort off road. This doesn't translate well to road car use as the wheels would skip about. The special active shocks are a strange situation. Ordinarily a higher damping rate would benefit from stiffer springs (as a rule). But these effectively have 2 damping rates (maybe a variety in between too) so the spring rates are harder to match. Then you add in the fact that stiffer springs generally come as a lowering package. This limits the effective range of the active part of the design. Most other shocks (Bilstein as you suggest) don't have the same requirement of travel to activate valving. You can tell that I half know what I'm talking about. The other half is still learning. I wish I had the time and/or money to just chuck some springs in there and see what they are like. Many others have reported that the SA perform well with lowering springs but I wonder if that is due to the inability to activate the lower damping rate due to travel restrictions. Thus they are using a kind of sports setup with the occasional activation of the clever valving rather than a proper setup with the correct amount of travel to make the most of the system. Experience like you offer is valuable especially when you have found evidence of the shocks not performing well.

I have 8-9 months on them. Got an upgraded rear roll bar too and still feel like the roll is too much. Skips out a bit on a couple of specific corners on my commute. Could well be I am asking too much of a heavy car. The lean on a large roundabout was loads on the way home today. Even in the greasy conditions we've had. Still have the stock shocks that would happily take lowering springs. The proceeds if I sell the konis would pay for much of the springs and labour. Pretty sure my Passat has stiffer suspension than the superb too. So shocks could be firmer.

@4StringBass it's better than stock. I am far less tired after a long drive due to not fighting against any body roll or wind.