MarkyG82

I may be wrong but I read somewhere that sport mode also increases the clutch plate pressure slightly to help with the added stress likely to be encountered and speeds up the shifting too. It was an unofficial "paper" so not sure how true.

I'm not 100% but I'm sure part of the process of getting a new key made/coded is removing any missing keys. So it should not be able to zap the car open. If they happen to know where you live then they will probably be able to get into the car but not start it. Maybe worth looking into a barrel change too? Although I never did it with my last or current cars both of which only came with one key.

Unlikely that any will fit in that case. Best selling the bits and putting the money towards new bits. I've seen a yeti at a very high state of tune so it's a very capable platform. Enjoy.

Intercooler (if not a kit) and turbo might work although the flow rate might be off if coming from something so highly tuned. The rest is unlikely to fit as it's a different platform I think.

Is it also down to the older vehicles without a turbo not having as much torque low end. Is that what you are talking about root? The torque curve on modern engines is much stronger than older NA engines even if the peak power is not as high. Makes spinning the front wheels much easier. Edit: Even that 2.3t will have gentle curve with "only" 220horses.

So a bit of a specific thing this but bugs the hell out of me. My last phone (pixel 3) and I think the previous one or more all had the behaviour to close the notification/quick settings drawer after you dismiss the last notification. I'm sure my pixel 5 did it until a recent update. Now I have to to manually close it after swiping away all the things. I'm a long term android user and did plenty of modding back in the day so I know how to drive the OS. Nothing in the settings suggests it can be reactivated. Any ideas from the hive mind?

They do fluctuate depending on the charge cycle required. Dropping to 13 is fairly normal and up to something like 14.8 I think for charging. If you're genuinely seeing 15 then the alternator sounds extra healthy 😀

That's sounds normal to me so not an alternator issue.

Voltage on cranking will drop quite a bit (sometimes below 9v) 12.2v with no load or charging doesn't sound off to me but it's been a while since I checked off-load voltage. What is it at when engine is running?

Also the speedy Skoda is the Octavia vrs.

Pirelli?

Not sure on overall power. It's the standard racing line map which is meant to be 280 in GTE mode. I tend to go for feel and drivability over top end figures. Normal hybrid mode now feels similar to how GTE mode felt before. This time of year the amount of torque you get from full chat (450+nm) is too much for the tyres even on cross climates. I'm thinking of saving the CCs for colder weather and fitting some better boots come spring time. They are good but the not as good as I want in the summer months. The remap is a definite void. I would not entertain doing it while in the first 3 years. Mine was 3 years and 2-3 month old when I had it done.

Are they all weather or all season? All weather are generally summer tyres. I wouldn't expect any summer tyres to perform well enough in the recent cold+wet we've had. Then if they are not great to start with..... Not heard much mention of khumo on here which suggests they are either not that good or not suited to the mqb platform. It's not a cheap direction but your best bet is to find out more about the model (khumo is just the brand and doesn't offer much info) and see if you can replace all 4 with something more suitable. This time of year the cross climates are usually the most recommended but that depends on your location and average weather. Is NI similar to the northwest of mainland UK for weather? If so the CC should do you well.

As above. 38 doesn't sound too bad. We get roughly 35 average with our 1.5 and that has cylinder-on-demand. Where the economy shines on these mid size turbo petrols is cruising. Can happily get 50+ on a motorway run. And my mates 1.4 a3 is similar.

As root mentioned it's not a great idea to mod a new car like that. An investigation can show logged parameters out of range even after the box has been removed. Also with the added complexity of the hybrid system I would only go down the remap route (which I have done on my GTE) and avoid a plug in box. Having used both on my previous TDI the map offered so much more anyway. My tuning was done after the 3 year point and I am being open with my dealer and being anal about maintenance to ensure the systems are kept at their best.

Some friendly so and so has decided that driving too close down a narrow lane was their plan this evening. Queue me searching the net for mirror parts. Light, folding and heat functions all work fine. Top cover is completely missing, so I'll definitely one of those. Also the black lower section under the Indicator lense is cracked with a hole. I can buy covers for not loads of money on the bay or wherever. Struggling to find even what the lower part is called let alone a supply of one. Could any offer help on this? Can get a whole mirror for £100+ but don't want to do that if I can help it. TIA

Only thing I can think of is the box is more readily changing down when applying gas. This makes the engine turn faster asking for more combustion cycles thus burning more fuel. That along with the cold, wet weather.

@SashaGrace if you want a recommendation for a forum for the GTE, can I throw speakev into the mix? Some good advice on their and the flying Dutchman who is well known for modding his GTE.

Yes

How do the helper springs work? Is there some slack before they "connect" or do provide support all the time?

Dogbone insert is a cheap way to help eliminate maybe 40% of the issue. Maybe take a look at your tyres too. If you run performance tyres then they will be suffering this time of year. A good set of winters for 4-5 months of the year will help save the nice rubber and also make it safer in the winter.

OK. So if you change the car to the non-vrs 2.0tsi model the same part number is listed with a bigger drop suggesting that the figures are pre-calculated. Not very clear on their site.

The interesting part of the spec is that it's up to 10%. That suggests it could well be the same e5 as supplied previously but with a bit more slack in the amount of E that goes into it. Just my cynical view. Probably not true.

What site is that? I'd suggest they have the figures wrong. A quick Google shows different numbers and also other options for kits that also confirm the bigger drop. A search for that kit you selected has some sites not even listing the drop.

How much are you allowing for on vrs suspension?