MarkyG82

Not sure you would have the space to get the old bar out and new one in without the wheels dropped. There was barely enough with mine and stands and it's stock height.

Did it myself on stands but you'll want a dry floor as it was easier for me to chuck tools under and slide about rather than in-out on each side. You may get so far with wheels off too but some clambering is needed.

Got the 1388s for my Passat. Imagine they will physically fit being the same platform. Not sure on valving but shouldn't be too far out. Got mine from larkspeed who were very helpful.

Nothing to do with going downhill. Just lifting fully off the go pedal. Touch any pedal, change gear or put into Sport mode and it will engage the clutch again.

Yes DCC comes standard on the superb iV. Not bitter at all with my non-dcc passat gte 🙂

Pedal box is a box that you plug in between the accelerator pedal and the car that allows you to tune the feel. Can make a big difference especially if the actual power of the car is enough. Induction kit is a replacement intake. There has been videos on tuning the 2.0 and induction kits usually add noise only and can sometimes reduce the power. What I would do if not willing to wait for a map under a different insurance company: - Pedal box, your insurance may not increase as the power isn't affected. - Check the air filter is clean and the oil changed and run it on premium fuel permanently (not just a tank now and then). - Consider handling upgrades like lowering springs and/or sport shocks. - Last but probably the most important thing so should be first, good tyres. Make sure they are all the same and you check the pressures. Maybe even play with the pressures to fine tune the ride and handling.

If you were to replace the fronts with stock or equivalent then yes go for front only. The SA's are a different type of shock and the balance front to rear would be off and potentially dangerous. If definitely going for SA's then go all 4. If not then maybe go for bilstein B4 for front only? They are said to be better quality than standard and a tiny bit stiffer (new shock syndrome IMO).

As above, vcds tweaks and sport mode are not the same as a pedal box. If that works for you then all good and saving a bit of cash. It's definitely not snake oil as the adjustment can be tuned to how you like it from nice and gentle to OMG! All the while removing/reducing the dead spot at start of the stroke. Vcds can't do all that.

@roottoot what's your view on pedal box's for warranty? I'm fairly certain all it does is alter the application of throttle signal. There should be no out of the ordinary logging going on as the it's no different to pressing the pedal differently. That's my theory anyway.

A pedal box may be a go alternative. It vastly improves the drivability while not tampering with any systems. May still void warranty but not heard either way unlike a full tuning box or map.

Shirley going up a width would be a better option than upping the profile? 235/40/18 is only 1.24% bigger but the wider tyre should offer a smoother ride. @BlockABootswhat's your aim for changing size?

This. I enjoy the challenge of optimising the fuel modes. The car as a whole isn't that thirsty on a run even if you have no charge. The mpg isn't as bombproof as a diesel but I imagine other petrol cars would suffer just the same if you have a heavy right foot. But then in sport/GTE mode we have a car that can pull like a diesel.

Only on the second generation GTE (since superb IV). Previous version didn't get this feature. I find it relatively straightforward to get the car in the right mode. Generally EV for anything town. Then motorway cruising etc hybrid is good. Can put it in charge or GTE (sport) mode if you know you need charge at the other end. Though GTE mode the adaptive cruise is more aggressive so stop start traffic is nicer in ev. It's the wrong type of car for regular long journeys anyway. I'd get a 1.5 for that. Or a 190 TSI if I could find one. Fancy combustion cycle and all that.

I was under the impression eagle f1s were the uhp model? Efficient grip performance are the more eco tyres?

The ones I got for our cars are rechargeable with a main lead and 12v lead. I think they were Aldi/Lidl jobs but there are similar in the web. Only used it once to try it out but seams to work well enough on battery or powered.

What's your aim? You won't get any more performance than a good condition stock filter and intake. A turbo inlet elbow and a performance filter/induction kit will offer marginally more response. If you are after more whoosh noise then go for it. Speak to a local garage who you might get to do the work and ask them for advice.

What are you trying to achieve?

This still requires a datum point to be set. It also may use the different speeds of the wheels when turning as part of the comparison coding. I guess the systems have come a long way with the ability to log lots of data. I still struggle to understand how a passive system can report all tyres needing air unless they are down at different levels.

I suggested most of that (granted not as detailed) way up near the top.

Sticker came off on my Octavia one windy day at the fuel pumps and never got a replacement. They do come loose.

Been a while since I was into the whole android flashing thing but usually if an app is installed ok it should work. It would be stopped at the play store end (assuming it has play store access). If side loaded then it could be an issue like AA doesn't have the correct trigger in the system code to fire it up. Maybe run it as the app on the phone and get it running. Then plug it in.

As suggested by @j caff the tyre size and choice is important.

Not an apple and apples comparison but I went from an Octavia TDI estate (mk3) to a Passat GTE. Road noise is very similar. Obviously engine noise is less but wind and tyres create more noise at cruising speed in most cars. I've not noticed a significant difference at the sort of speeds that matter. Low/mid speed you get the same bumps and rattles but less engine noise.

I'm sure you get a pop up or other message saying it needs activating and to contact a dealer. If you are getting the smartlink screen without it then you should be good. Incidentally, when it does come up (even when working) it looks like it's greyed out but you can still select. Just be sure to hit the right one. Mirror link is also an option but a pile of p00.

That gives me cold shivers!