MarkyG82

Consumers also need to understand the definition of full dealer service history. Just means that all the work carried out was at a dealer. Does not necessarily mean the correct work was carried out.

If it's anything like mib2 then the screens could be interchangeable. Find someone with an Amundsen who wants the Columbus screen and swap.

I read roots table as anything below the line is the time frame at the top of the column. Anything above the line is time and mileage. Certainly matches with what I thought was the service schedules and other advice all over the interwebs and service centers. Edit: cambelt being the exception as no-one seems to know what the mileage is. Apart from the 60k quoted up there 👆

Lighter, narrower, more sidewall (less rolling resistance). The same tyre size in a more summer oriented model will probably offer more mpg again.... All other conditions being the same of course. You need to take into account air temp, road surface, journeys travelled etc etc.

Is that 183k miles? Sounds like new dpf time I'm afraid.

On the characteristics side my GTE feels similar to my tuned TDI Octavia. More torque and peak power but with more weight there's not much in it performance wise.

ACDC! 🤘

I don't think it's a war. I just think people who wax lyrical about how petrol is better haven't driven a modern diesel. With modern turbo petrol the characteristics of the two types are closer than ever. You just get more head room with a petrol. But then who consistently uses revs over around 4.5-5k anyway. Talking about Joe public here. Enthusiasts will obviously use every rev the engine can offer 😀

A tuned diesel can have quite a wide power band. Granted not as wide as a petrol but the torque comes in far earlier and if you are careful with the clutch actually can be nicer to drive.

Has it ever worked? There's more than one usb port and 2016 is quite early for smartlink. Some ports work with Android auto but not carplay. They are quite easy to replace. Take a dig through Sasha's Octavia thread as there is loads of info on it in there.

In real life it's more green than in photos.

That's an interesting approach. Am I right in saying you only put the eibach on the front? What did you do to the rear?

Ok. others will correct me but that's an mib2 Amundsen I think. So the best solution would be to swap out for a mib2/2.5 Columbus which could give you a bigger screen and crucially the cd slot you want. That device listed above won't work unless you can find another location for it and wire it in. Going down the external route would be cheapest. Or a complete aftermarket head unit with cd slot either in the glovebox or dash.

Have you checked what's in the glovebox as @SC03OTT says. Look you have an Amundsen system which should have a cd slot in the main head unit in the glovebox.

£200 is probably about right. At the top end of what I have paid.

I think it's auto glym that does a 2in1 tar and iron remover. Maybe not quite as perfect as individual products but very useful if you just want one bottle of stuff.

I would predict they are a straight swap. Best bet is to climb under the seat and snap some pics of the plugs and cables. Then do the same with a FL car and compare.

I didn't mean to sound rude so apologies for that. It was the tyre width that was confusing things I think. 17s would definitely be better comfort wise if you could fit them over the brakes. Less steering feedback and a touch more body roll to go with it though.

Your tyre calc is wrong. The tyre is 7mm bigger diameter but the smaller rim of the 18 gives more sidewall too. Overall height is 8mm extra sidewall. With the added width it could well be more comfortable. The pressure can be dropped due to the larger air volume in the tyre. This can be done with fewer side effects that dropping the pressure on the 19s.

In mod order. Old Octavia: Remap. Shocks. Springs. Dogbone. Pedal box. New Passat: Pedal box (came from Octavia). Dogbone. Remap. Shocks. Rear roll bar. If I had to go down a budget and/or reversible route: Rear roll bar. Dogbone. Pedal box.

I imagine you might get the turbo to work. The rest being engine specific will likely not fit. Probably not what you wanted to hear. If they are good condition/new maybe you could recoup some of the costs by selling the parts?

Does it soft open when opening? I had this on my Octavia and it was due to the damper device being disconnected. Once reconnected it was much easier to close.

So Columbus then. Also confirmed by JR.

That looks like the older Columbus to me. A pic of the head unit in the glovebox will help.

Best bang for buck is first make sure everything is in good condition. Then make sure you have good tyres with a pressure you are happy with. Then a rear roll bar. Part condition and tyres should be day job anyway. The bar is then the icing on a stock cake. If you want to keep it OEM look into other cars with stiffer bits. Golf R might fit our cars. I have a white line bar that I got on offer and it's had a much bigger positive effect than the shocks.