petrolbloke

Owners manual or sales material? Sales material, specs and prices are already on this thread:

You have a MK2 and this is the MK1 section. Try searching the MK2 section and if you can't find an answer start a new thread.

Have you still got the wheels?

Can't you turn off CC from the stalk? I normally disengage the CC using the stalk, unless I need to brake suddenly. This avoids the quick flash of brake lights and reduces brake wear (granted, by a small fraction).

Looks like a mk2 wheel. But as mk1s were not on general sale or in general production in 2009, maybe the wheel came from what was available in the parts bin.

"Maniac!"

Getting there...! Less than 7k to go. Should be there by about June.

Have you driven on the M25 recently?! Most of it is 4 lanes wide. L1 is normally lorries. L3 is normally MLMs (middle-lane morons) and L4 is the Audi/BMW/Mercedes right up your rear bumper lane. The majority of drivers I see on there don't use the lanes properly. When I drive on there I mainly use L1/L2 and avoid L3 and L4. Often make better progress as well! I'm sure in half an hour the police could gather enough evidence to issue fixed penalties to loads of lane hoggers, but either don't have the resources, can't be bothered with the paperwork or are scared of upsetting the MLMs en masse. Making an example of some of the MLMs and covering it in the press might be a way to get more people to think about their driving and lane usage.

Some not quite textbook driving from a police car yesterday.

Did the white plug previously go into the back of the Pioneer unit? If so, it should have two plugs on the end the same as the Alpine lead does, so unplug that and plug the Alpine in. Make sure they are connected to the correctly (check the Alpine unit's manual if you're not sure). You will need an adaptor/booster for the FM aerial by the looks of it. Have a search in this section for more info.

Any fault codes or untoward noises?

Rear numberplate bulbs are 501/W5W type. Not sure about the other one.

Oh dear! I wonder if the MOT is legit too... on a 13 year old car there's normally something the tester can advise on. Now that you've punted it on, is it worth sticking the reg up here so that it shows up in a Google search?

I wouldn't hold out for an L&K. As they will all be over 10 years old and likely have over 100k miles, buy on condition and history. I believe the L&Ks also had cruise control, not sure if the Elegance did or not, but if not then it can be retrofitted.

Probably the regulator. If the cable has jammed the motor then that would explain the click.

H4.

Is the clutch pedal itself low or just the biting point? The pedal shouldn't be low but the biting point could be. Should have similar clutch pedal travel to an A3.

What about the sliders? Did you fit new calipers or used calipers?

I had a similar problem on mine and it turned out to be the temperature sensor housing, so not really an expensive fix. If there's a leak somewhere then using sealant is not really a long term solution and can cause other problems.

I've not had one go yet either. But then I normally have belts replaced as a precaution so the chances are reduced. Slightly different as car insurance (third party) is a legal requirement for driving on the public roads. More like accidental damage cover on your home insurance. If you never buy it, one day it could cost you £££. Or you can buy it at every renewal but may never need to claim on it.

If the belt is only driving the water pump then it's not a cam belt - more of an auxiliary belt. Cambelts (and sometimes chains) are changed as a precautionary measure because waiting to the point of failure risks significant engine damage (like valves contacting pistons). Aux belts are changed as a precautionary measure but if they fail there's not such a risk of major damage. If your water pump belt fails you're going to have fair warning (via temperature gauge and warning light) before any engine damage occurs. You might still be left at the side of the road waiting for recovery though - so definitely wise to keep an eye on and replace as a precaution.

Ironic! For some people stringing a few lines of code together is like running a marathon. It seems impossible to them but with the right preparation it is achievable. Personally I think £200 for a pedal box is a way over-priced, but a lot of people out there are willing to pay for convenience and these pedal boxes are giving it to them. I'd love to see the calculations for the "65% better response" from the graph on the previous page.

Agreed to buy a genuine one, but disagree that it's 100% likely to be the CTS that's the cause of the problem. In my experience it was the thermostat, not the CTS that was the issue.

Cleaning the level probes in the coolant reservoir with a flat bladed screwdriver might fix the warning. It's quite a common problem. The temperature gauge is likely a separate issue - probably the thermostat needs replacing. If replacing the thermostat doesn't fix it then try replacing the coolant temperature sensor too.

Only 10k miles to go!