kentphil1

Does the car have a boot lamp that may be staying on when closed?

If you intend to change that valve (which is not normally a troublesome failure point), you would be well advised to renew the lower pcv valve too. It is item number 6 in this diagram :- https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2003-252/1/103-103085/

Just be sure you use a new gasket if you remove the body to clean it, otherwise 17705 will be popping up forever. Technically you should do a throttle body alignment if you remove the wiring connector and the move the throttle flap for any reason. However, if you do not have vcds to do this, the way to do it is to remove the bolts and main air pipe, but leave the wiring on, then get a second person to have their foot flat to the floor with the ignition on to keep the flap open while you clean it. No throttle reset needed if you take your time and use some patience. Can't see any pcv piccie I'm afraid, but hope the rest helps.

Which PCV valve have you ordered, the poppet valve by the oil filter, or the pancake valve by the recirc valve?. Usually, when one of those hoses splits, the other one is not far behind. It is highly possible that the throttle body may be heavily gunked up with rebreathing oil as well. Has anybody had it off to clean it at all?.

What hoses did you have changed?, as those codes are showing that you are still getting unmetered air in somewhere. Did you have the throttle body off to do the hoses?

When was your fuel filter last changed?, is your car standard or mapped?. Is it doing this on the flat, or is the place it does this on an incline or slope?.

there is a "y" plastic pipe valve in the vacuum line to the servo that can hairline crack in the valley of the y, might be worth giving it a check

I would still slip the pipe off the tank and have an exploratory prod with some wire. The hole may be able to pass air, but may be restricted in size...... and it costs nothing to try.

I think that could well be your problem Rob, as the twin pipe is probably 2 fold, one to return fuel to the tank in an overfil, and one to vent actual fume pressure, (my moneys on the clear one for that) It looks like your plastic pipe on the original setup is returning from the tank to the tank rather than the filler neck or is that just camera angle?. If that's so, the pressure can't go anywhere while the fuel going in is consuming the available airspace with nowhere to go. You really want to create a closed suction loop in the filler so one drags the other along, in other words the fumes being pushed into the neck above the fuel creates a depression to draw the new fuel in. Atmosphere venting may not be cutting it anymore with modern fuel station pump delivery rates being higher now than when Rusty was born. Can you not get a local specialist to place an elbow in for you?. i'm wondering if the previous repairer did not fully understand the system, and welding was simpler as a solution. Just out of interest Rob, have you had your breather pipe off the tank and checked the elbow is clear with a length of welding rod or similar or was that the pipe you blew through?.

In answer to your original question, the roof panel is bonded at the front windscreen flange, the tailgate opening and across the centre reinforcer member under the headling. It is also spot welded in the valley that the roof trims cover and is finally seam sealled following satisfactory welding. Hope it helps.

The temp gauge should get to 90 degrees fairly quickly from cold (usually about 1-2 miles) and stay there without any fluctuation, fans or not, unless it is standing in traffic. If it does rise and fall, that can be an indicator of a failing thermostat. Having said that a gauge sensor can give similar faults as the sensor serves 2 funtions - 1) to tell you the temp of the engine, and 2) to tell the ecu to the engine the coolant temperature. The sensor is split in half as far as function is concerned, which basically means it could possibly be giving a good gauge reading and a compromised ecu signal, or vice versa - which is usually the more common way that the sensor fails. This was why I asked if you knew what the code was, to try to eliminate sensor from thermostat failing. You basically are really looking for either failed sensors or unmetered air getting into the system that the ecu is trying to correct for I would think. Just out of interest, has it got a decat on it or is it on a sports cat?. It looks like a lot of the SAI and breather pipe mods have been carried out from the photo, so there are less pipes and valves to be temperamental, but I would still spend 5 minutes with a torch and a small mirror to make sure a blanking bung has not become displaced under the manifold. As most of the stuff that would normally be in the way has been removed on yours, that should be fairly easy to check and it will cost you bugger all. You could also get some live data from VCDS if you know someone with it to check the MAF sensor is reporting correctly, and is not dirty or failing. Has the throttle body been cleaned in the last year at all?, as that can cause sticking rpm, but in all honesty I don't think it is the majority of your issue. Try to do some of the checks and let us know what you find so we can try to help more,

What codes are appearing on your Snap-on tool?, when you say relating to thermostat, what code is it showing?. I am guessing by the pipework, that you have a front mount intercooler fitted, is all the pipework pressure tight from leaks?. What does your temp gauge show when warm?, a steady 90 degrees or does it fluctuate when driving, especially downhill?. Are you running the standard map sensor on your intercooler piping or the modified Golf unit?.

When you first said that, I wasn't sure in my minds eye if it would work, but seeing those 2 side by side, I 100% agree. Not only does the colour work, but the style of wheel has taken years off the car's age. I really should listen more next time you say something about colours.👍

Will you be fitting the seal yourself Rob?

Have you checked the access panel above the fusebox - held on by two nuts - this can leak sometimes, also i think there is a grommet by it (been a while since i;ve been near that area so working from memory here) that can become displaced. when you do check for leaks eventually, put a little food dye in with the water that you pour over the car, it will aid spotting the leak, and it will clean off afterwards with little effort. Also, check that water is not filling the base of the A post and running over the top of the inner sill area. Hope it helps

From memory, there was a gasket, a housing and a seal on the rear main, but I also remember a gallery plug back there too, but for the life of me I can't remember if it was for oil or water. Love that garage too, best of luck to you with it Rob, a real nice place to play man cave .

This may help - However, having seen your location is Chile, there may be regional variations on plug grade that you may have to confirm in your home country, as I have no access to info outside of europe. Hope it helps

Whilst it most likely is a defective sensor at the age of the car, you would be wise to heed the comments about checking the loom and connector first, as corrosion in the connection is also likely. Hope it helps.

Some info on your crank sensor fault code - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16706/P0322/000802

Can you let us know what engine code you have - i.e ALH, AGR etc?.

The crank sensor would explain the difficult starting, but you still have looming lambda probe issues. I would delete all codes after saving a copy of your scan, run for few days, then rescan to see what returns. Some of the codes when deleted have to complete several duty cycles (read start/stop with the ignition key) before they will return, but defective safety items will return immediately. What fault code did the crank sensor return and its description, as the code will divide into defective or intermitent?. Having said that, if it was showing defective I wouldn't expect the car to start at all. Does your VCDS lead and version allow you to do data logging or it VCDS lite with an aftermarket cable?.

In which case it's probably the regulator cable snapped by the motor gear cog. I would put a couple of lengths of gaffer tape over the top of the frame of the door and onto the window before you remove the trim, just in case to cable comes out of the runner while your friend is dismantling. Good luck with the fix. 👍

How long have you had the car?, has the window ever worked in your ownership?. If the answer is no, my guess is the cable has snapped and someone has lodged the window shut with something like a piece of wood - hence why you can hear the motor.

Really depends how close to the pillar connector that the wire is damaged to suggest a course of action. Do you have any pictures at all. I tend to repair wiring in high traffic areas like that with high flex silicon wire that I solder in, but as I said, it depends on the area that the loom has been damaged. Scotchloks are not really feasable as they are too big really.

Hi, as said above check the bellows, but there can also be issues with corrosion on the drivers door operating module connection. This thread should give you more info - You dont mention your location in the global sense in your profile, so I assume for now that you are based in the UK with all the associated water and damp issues that we deal with over here. Hope it helps.