newbie69

To be honest 10/10 is probably a big statement for any car but let's say it should have had that element (which I am speaking about in the upcoming part) in generous amounts, and yes I say "should have had" because it's already sitting in the garage but I didn't have the time to write a long update on this for quite some time.... Good thought but you missed the part where I received a veto from the wife that even if now I will be running my "own" car it should still be able to fit 2 children in the back seats when the main driver will be unavailable to carry those duties.

I remember I had it done on mine via OBDEleven. If you have it (or VCDS) try this: 1) Select Central Electrics 2) Select Security access 3) Enter 31347 4) Select Adaptation 5) Search for "Scheinwerferreinigung" and select Headlamp washer system 6) set to "not installed"

PART 2 - PARTING WAYS So the trip was great, and coupled with the rest of the long vacation I ended up covering my typical year's mileage of 10k km in just a couple of months Again, during that time, the daily need to carry all 4 of us, with all sorts of rather useless but so "necessary" vacation stuff around town but also between cities fast, effortlessly and comfortably showed what a great car this was. But now we were all back to our routines again. During the year and in the current period of our lives trips are rather scarce and schools are within walking distance. Too early for regular kids activities either so that means 99% of the time me driving the car empty from home to work and back (a 10km trip), plus the usual errands, hardly exciting stuff. And apart from some occasional short highways blasts, the definition of fun in the car was limited to listening my music without bothering anyone else (as was the case at home). The modifications I had done to the car undoubtedly and very noticeably improved it by removing a lot of the "comfy cruiser" feel and character, but were still not enough to transform it to something else. Something with say a more distinct sporty / fun character that I was more and more missing since my Clubsport days, something that would make me grab the keys and go for a drive without a particular purpose but rather just for the drive itself. I was several times on the verge of continuing on that path with considerable suspension and brake upgrades, in the thought of becoming able to go back to the track and have a good time but retrospectively I am glad I didn't. Not just because of the questionable end result but also as a matter of jeopardizing our daily dependency on it. Performance itself wasn''t the issue either, after all with 0-60mph in 3.80 seconds and seamless acceleration from 0 to its top speed (whatever that might have been I never got round in finding out) under all conditions it had me covered, not that I was even exploiting it that often any more as the novelty of testing/admiring acceleration times was wearing off. So what I was left with was a car that was a) much bigger than we needed it to be for 99.9% of the time b) less efficient that it should be for stuff like commuting at 50km/h and driving slowly to the super market c) unable to really excite below 120km/h or when not launching from traffic lights and low speeds just for the fun of it. Most of that were not faults of the car itself obviously, nobody forces you to buy a bigger car than you need, and I had enjoyed the silly push back in my seat plenty those 2.5 years, but it just wasn't doing it for me anymore. Coupled with the fact we were not needing much of its other talents most of the time and the crazy used car market prices that meant i could sell with the best (smallest) loss I have ever had with any of my previous cars made it clear it would have to go. It's funny because after that, when people were asking me why I was selling the car I couldn't come up with something objectively negative to say about it, instead my reply was always starting "well actually it's the best car I've ever owned" and that's true that if you write down how many things a slightly tuned 272 can do and how well it can do them, it is very hard to find something else that comes close. But in my case I guess the question was, do all of those things matter the same? And do you want your car to be doing everything at 7/10 (some even higher) or maybe just ONE thing at 10/10 is more important than the others...? Long story short, I put an ad out and around a week later a car dealer, the type of which are usually offering a ridiculously low trade-in, surprisingly matched it to 95% of my asking and so after 30 months of ownership it was time to say good-bye.

Having recently gone back to a manual, I have to say the concept of "gear change delay" just does not apply to a DSG , especially upshifting in S with the throttle buried on the floor. Looking at my logs I was shocked at how much time is lost during gear changes in my manual compared to a DSG which essentially accelerates in a continuous and relentless fashion.

It's what should expected with any decent stage 1 from a reputable tuner really. Best of my 272 with the REVO stage 1 was 0-60 in 3.80" and 0-100km/h in 3.98" 🙂 Point here is 4.3" is a great time for a stage 1 Superb yes but there are probably closer options for you than having to travel all the way to Serbia, if not for a vacation at the same time 😄

I haven't been too active during the last months as things have been pretty busy both at work and at home on several levels, but I felt an update was long due and so here comes a last, much deserved write-up... PART 1 - ROAD TRIP After a few failed attempts, lot of hesitation and procrastination, during summer I finally managed to do the road-trip that I was longing for since I got the car and (as it turned out) the one every Superb is built for: nearly 5000km across Europe, all the way from southern Sweden to Greece and back What a trip that was. Blasting down Autobahn and other European highways with all comforts turned on, car staying planted and smooth even way over 200km/h that kilometers were disappearing so easily behind us in hundreds. First thing I realized driving a modern and gadget loaded car for such a long distance was that while I didn't actually lower my attention and focus on the road, that thought that IF something unexpected was to happen, the lane assist, the adaptive cruise, the emergency brake etc. would provide an extra safety net (as it happened once) took some of the mental stress off and allowed me and my co-pilot to do 1500km in just the first day and still get out of those wonderful SportLine seats around 23:00 without feeling exhausted or unable to continue by any means. I was truly blown away by the comfort at which we had travelled despite the fact we were keeping as high a pace as realistically possible. Originally the plan was to judge how the trip developed and plan the night's stop on the way but at 1000km we were both feeling quite fresh still, 1200km the same and so we continued to the next big city on our way clocking a nice and round 1500km on the trip odo in just 14:40hr of drive, around 3hr of which were stops and customs/borders controls. After that, the remaining 1000km seemed like a piece of cake the second day and so it proved to be. Another point worth mentioning: the car was tuned with REVO stage 2 map, loaded down to the last cubic cm in the boot (first time ever that I managed that), not running the recommended intercooler upgrade for stage 2, and was continuously accelerating to higher speeds when road conditions allowed (including a few top speed runs at the Autobahn) for 14 hrs and yet, it didn't miss a beat / ever go over 105 C / or act unusual in any way, what a testament to both the gen EA888 TSI and the optimization of the tune that REVO has accomplished 👏 As people who have been following my past threads know I was already a big fan of the car but upon completion of the trip, I realized I was really missing out a very important and impressive aspect of this car until that point, which was the way it can cover miles at such an astonishing (especially when price is taken into account) pace and comfort that one (myself included) would think is only appropriate of premium German sports saloons. In the end I was so thankful I went ahead with this plan for our vacation this year or I wouldn't have got to fully know my own car. Boot packed (literally) and ready to set off, there was stuff even in the spare wheel compartment... I s "Necessary" top speed limiter removal confirmation at some long and relatively empty Autobahn bit. The picture is so clear and steady it feels almost fake but it echoes what I mentioned about smoothness and high speed stability. I let off gas at that point but I swear it had some more yet to give, crazy all things considered... First night's stop. Consumption was closer to 9 - 9.2lt/100km before hitting some huge borders cues, which for our pace / power / weight I believe was incredibly good. Just stuff you can't do with an estate 😄 Part2 to follow...

Sounds like half of the gains you should be seeing after a stage 1 from say REVO.

Sounds about right for Map2 on this engine, and I've seen up to 350 with custom Map6 settings if you can bother with tweaking and measuring. I remember there was a noticeable difference when I went from JB4 to REVO stage 1, not night and day but definitely a keener pickup and pulling all the way to the limiter, which also translated to better acceleration times. Was that difference over the JB4 worth the remap's cost? Not really unless you're a sucker for mods and have the power bug if I'm honest. Even less so if you consider the voided warranty with the remap. JB4 is a no brainer on these cars imo. I've stopped caring about dyno figures (curves are still nice to see and often rather telling of the map's quality), more relevant would be some 100-200kmh and 1/4 mile times if you could get your hands on a 10Hz GPS measuring device (DRAGY, RaceBox etc) if you'd like more context of how it fares against other stock cars.

It's an OZ thing apparently, rest of world (at least EU and UK as far as I know) moved to the 272 GPF engines and new DSG7 speed DQ381 in 2019, but as has been reported here by other members, Australian models retained the previous engine and gearbox even after that year.

You mean that you were side by side, both at the same speed, same gear, and floored it at the same time and you could not lose him?? Because anything different than what I described is an invalid comparison of no use... I bet if you repeat it as I describe you will see yourself "detaching" slowly but steadily. 40bhp and around as much more torque or thereabouts is not enough to offset the advantage of starting earlier or having more favorable conditions at these levels as some people might think. I have seen 380bhp cars not able to catch up with 310bhp ones when the latter ones started earlier or were already making a higher speed, at least not before reaching 180+ km/h, it's not that easy. Even less so at the sub 200 bhp levels you describe.

Actually depending on the tune and on whether the DSG is mapped as well it can get quite lower than that, while still only running a stage 1, meaning just software, no exhaust mods etc. That's what my 272 stage 1 (albeit with a 7 speed DSG but the 280 won't be too different) was hitting with the DSG mapped as well but no other hardware mods apart from an intake which has minimal impact on times:

Should be comfortably in the mid 4s as with most stage 1s.

I succesfully carried out the adaptation after a 2nd try, but I honestly wouldn't be able to tell there was a difference between before/after if I didn't specifically know about it, your mileage may vary though.

Apparently there are two types of spare wheel kit mouldings. The smaller one as in JR's car and the bigger one as in Ivan's. When I look up the type for mine in some websites it shows the larger one with the protruding arms: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3v0093860c-spare-wheel-replacement-kit-skoda-40305.html According to Ivan, that type cannot fit inside a 18" wheel (that's the size of my winters) without trimming. Maybe the removal of the plastic bit JR shows here is needed too nonetheless. HOWEVER! I notice in the picture that the plastic securing screw comes as part of the kit, which implies it is not meant to be integrated in the chassis. Furthermore, zooming in you can see that the bottom end of the screw has a flat extension which seems to match the cut in my wheel well. It looks like you introduce it and turn it 90 degrees to secure: So I'm guessing it possible to do a full retro-fit in the end, mounting screw included.

That's exactly what I was wondering. I guess your car came WITH the spare wheel kit? In which case the floor had the plastic screw integrated from factory correct? I somehow thought you retro-fitted the kit, going from a tire fix kit to a spare kit one and adding the screw, but on a second reading I may have misunerstood the topic! Probably it was about the fact you can get a 19" instead of a space saver wheel right?

I can order the OEM spare wheel kit with the correct moulding to fit inside the wheel and the tools that come with it. it's not a matter of cost or how to find it, it's around 50 EUR i think for the complete set (minus the wheel) and a Skoda dealership can provide it within a couple of days. I was more curious as to whether the central plastic screw is meant to be mounted to the chassis or it is merely part of the moulding and the whole "kit + wheel" are independent/not mounted to the chassis. Regarding to the winter wheel as I said, it's really less than 2mm difference in circumference on paper, and with a slightly greater inflation than the other 3 I reckon it'd be impossible to detect any difference. But I haven't tried it and I'd rather know what to expect and if it could work before I am forced to test it along the way, probably in some foreign land.

Amazing timing, I came here to look for such a post this morning only to see it was posted 4hr ago So, two questions: a) Mine came without a spare wheel set, (no scissor jack or spanner either), just the tire fix kit non-sense and the moulding cannot obviously accomodate a spare wheel: Also, when I remove the moulding, I don't see the plastic stud/screw that is used to secure the full size kit in place, is it part of the spare wheel kit and can it be mounted properly to that cut in the middle of the floor mine has?? b) In terms of the actual spare wheel, could I use one from my winter set if need be? And would I be able to continue my trip at a steady 120km/h? The overall diameter difference is less than 2mm (670.6mm vs 668.7mm) which to me sounds as it could have also been the result of unequal tire inflation between two identical wheels. I even took both wheels out and compared them in terms of circumference and you wouldn't be able to tell one was slightly larger than the other by naked eye or even buy the use of basic rulers that I employed for my comparison, they were looking that identical. Not sure if the AWD system would pick that up though or if the ESP could be potentially affected by even such a minor diameter difference. I could always pump the pressure up on the smaller wheel by a few PSI extra I reckon? I have quite a long roadtrip planned in the coming week and I am considering my options...

The pictures are on the fronts, running 10mm spacers all-around (same wheels too). My findings don't seem to agree with your measurements though. The rears are nowhere near that narrower than the fronts, quite the opposite, it looks like they are pushed out a little more than the fronts. Rears look almost flush now with the 8.5 ET37 & 10mm spacers, while the fronts (with same setup) are still 2-3mm pushed inside the arches... I haven't actually measured the track, and going by the official documentation the front track is 12mm wider I think so Ι wonder if the fornt arches are pushed out to create this effect, because I'm sure the rears look wider (almost flush) than the fronts. In any case, if spacers are not allowed you'd need to run something like 9.0 ET35 to get those extra 21.7mm

19x8.5 ET37 Without spacers they sit around 12-15mm inside the fender even though they are 13.7mm wider than stock but it's still not enough to get anywhere near to a flush look. I don't like fully flush actually as I don't find it safe, I do like them to sit as few mm away from the fender though. Which is why I added 10mm spacers after that made it perfect for my like. Not 100% flush but as close as it can be without making me worry. No rubbing or other issues either. Here's how the 19x8.5 ET37 WITH 10mm spacers on looks like: So to get to that look, you need 23.7mm widening, be it from just a wider alloy or a combination of alloy & spacers. Beyond that it started to be too far out for me.

Thanks for confirming my assumption of the cost of upgrading all 4x with Blistein not surpassing the cost of just 2x OEM DCC.

More chance of someone having actually tried that in the Superb MKII section I guess

I'm still after a way to remove the PCB from the plastic body. Haven't tried hard really, just opened it quickly the other day and thought of letting it aside until I have a solid approach so if anyone can share some tips at some point i'd be great. @Bap33 so you bought the full shell (plastic body + metal bits) but only replaced the bits, did I get that right?

Sounds definitely angry above some rpm, but not in a bad way! Is it close to what you wished it would end up sounding? Also, are the valves automatically opening above some rpm? That's how it sounded from your vid. What I mean is, is there just one mode that varies depending on rpm? or you can actually select a comfor and a sport mode?

It'll be interesting to see how close it gets to that Superb in the video as it has probably the best sound I've heard from this engine with any exhaust setup be it a Golf R, S3, Cupra or Superb. But if I remember correctly some conversation here, the company said that part of it was due to the ugpraded downpipe as another Passat with the same cat-back but OEM downpipe sounded less aggressive. Hope you get the result you're after and make sure to post some before/after clips

Nope and I don't think I'll be going down that road unless I need to replace a shock, which hopefully should not happen while my ownership