newbie69

You're not installing a tuning box by any chance, are you?

Now that you mention it, I too have mine always connected to the USB in the handrest storage as it's just more neat and convenient (modern phones are too large for the ashtray pocket) although I don't recall issues with the front USB the few times I had to use that.

They have become THAT crazy then huh? 12500EUR emission tax for a 2lt Euro 6D Superb... So much more ecological to stick with older Euro5 cars right?!? Dangerous clowns everywhere... Out of curiosity, is that the permanent yearly tax one would have to be paying for this car or like a one-off tax? Not that it matters anyway, I don't think ANY individual would go ahead with this in place, only companies that can deduct VAT (maybe), the 2-3 year old used market is going to sky-rocket...

I don't think Huawei Mate 20 supports MirrorLink, my P20 Pro doesn't either, seems to be a dying protocol really, everybody just focuses on AA instead of paying MirrorLink rights. On the OP's subject though, I only very rarely get a disconnection with my Huawei P20 Pro and the original cable (bought a second one and left it in the car) and only if I fettle with using the phone while in AA by exiting the app back and forth. 99% of the time the operation is flawless. When that happens though it might even need a phone restart to go back to normal.

To be honest, it's been such a long time living with this limitation that by now it's become second nature to just tap the Mode button twice every time I start the car up, car and DSG are then both set to Sport which is my preferred setup even for daily driving (especially after the DSG remap) and off I go...

Your dealer probably needs to touch base with modern engines... -2 is not even proper cold We get -5 / -10 easily over the winter on a daily basis here and everybody simply starts the car and sets off. You obviously don't want to be taking it to 5K rpm right away or in fact for any part of your 10min trip (being so short) as the oil would probably still be closer to 60-70 deg by the time you reach your destination in that temperature, but letting it idle does not help at all and is just a waste of time and fuel.

Letting the car idle for such a long time does not do any good. 30sec max, while say you put your seatbelt on or select modes, media etc. is fine, then just set off while obviously taking it easy during the first 5-10min (depending of temperature). The engine only really gets up to temp by driving it, idle has minimum effect and just wastes fuel for nothing.

Alval do I remember right you are also tuned and run closer to 360bhp? Or was it that you were thinking of getting a remap? Or I completely confuse you with another member?

Are you sure about that? According to the car's data, curb weight is 1490kg whereas a Superb 280 hatch starts at 1650kg in real life, that's quite some difference. And even if they weighed similar, I doubt there's many similarities suspension/chassis wise between the two cars. The i8 was designed and set up taking into account running on these tires, the Superb didn't. I realize the OP has a free set of that size available and is tempted to use them, I;ve been through this dilemma with an even smaller size difference than that and decided against it.

Did the 280/272 ever come with that size as standard?? I wasn't aware. Judging from the 235 I run now, 215 seems awfully narrow for a car this size, this weight and this power... I'd only imagine going up in width on this car, not down.

I would never run a) so much narrower tires with b) such higher sidewall on a 280, doesn't make any sense dynamically and would worsen the steering and handling noticeably in my opinion, what's even the reason to consider such a weird size combo If I may ask?

I have the Eibachs on mine, E10-79-012-04-22 is the correct kit number (not part number) for the 280/272 hatch and they work great. You can see how much they drop and lots of other info in the Eibach thread in my signature. Mind you, there was a mistake with mine in the beginning and softer rear springs were used due to an error in an older Eibach catalog, this was later discovered and fixed with the correct rear springs I write all about it in that thread (not a huge difference anyway). No idea why H&R do not show any items suitable for the sedan/hatch but I wouldn't worry about it tbh.

Maybe you're right. Would be helpful if someone who has a system made or installed for the Superb could chime in. From a very un-scientific check of Friedrich's images for the available systems for the Superb and the Cupra ST, they look identical till the res-back point but it appears as the distance from the mufflers joint to the resonator is longer on the Superb as there is an additional pipe extension welded on the Superb's resonator (in red).

If by "Fox" you mean the Remus system seen here for the Cupra: https://remus.eu/cat-back-system-stainless-steel-sport-exhaust-l-r-for-seat-leon-cupra-st-300-4drive-selectable-tail-pipes-incl-ec-homologation.html As I understand it, the Remus centre resonator included is 70mm at the back to connect to the resonator-back part which is increased to 70mm from the OEM, but at the front of the resonator where it connects to the OEM downpipe it should be 60mm so there shouldn't be any problems. In any case, if this system is meant to be compatible with the OEM downpipe then it should feature a matching diameter in front of the resonator.

Correct.

Golf R yes, Cupra no.

Updates as to what aspect you mean? The question about hardware differences between Superb 272 - R 300 was answered I believe (no differences),

Yes I think the Superb shares the same part numbers regarding the cat-back with the estate versions of the Golf and the Leon, minus the tail-pipes of-course. Don't just take my word on that one though as I've never fitted one myself but check with the fitter first. The Friedrich system on the Superb sounded quite good actually in that vid, if you're after a more throaty sound. The same system on the Arteon though sounded helpless... No idea why so different. I found that clip from a Cupra ST with the Remus cat-back: Not that exciting tbh, less noticeable than the Friedrich although with exhaust systems it can be that what you hear on YT vids is worse/better than what you'll get in reality...

Just someone who's got the tuning bug and the last two cars he tuned were both featuring the same ea888 gen3 TSI (the second one got an OPF actually ) so I've either been through a few of the available mods myself or I've done my fair share of study, or, driven them in friend's cars ( i have got around 5-6 good buddies from my MQB involvement so far). And we're here to share so no need for thanking. You don't have to convince me about the Superb Sportline's sporty potential/appeal. Apart from the extremely capable drivetrain, I bought it mainly because i found it such a sharp and dynamic car design wise, honestly better looking that a few more "premium" offerings of the time, and I do believe that VAG correlations between brands prevented an even more special and focused car like a Superb vRS coming out for this generation, but the underpinnings and Skoda's end product in the form of the Superb Sportline could have definitely supported it. I competely agree the L&K sends out a completely different tone, nothing I could ever see myself driving despite being almost exactly the same car, anyway. If you're after more noise you should just go for stage 1/JB4 and instead look for good quality cat-backs, rather than downpipes. That's where the extra exhaust noise can be found. Some cheaper downpipes might actually just increase drone and make it more boomy which is the last thing you want. Problem is the Superb is not the most popular car for these mods so not as many (good) options for it but I think the aftermarket options for the R estate and Cupra estate should (you'd need to confirm this) fit the Superb so you might have a solution instead of going custom. PS. Just read what @Bigeater wrote above about the Remus back-boxes for the Cupra estate which confirms my assumption about some options being compatible even though not stated to be for the Superb. Those would provide the extra noise without making it unbearable, no idea about their cost.

I laugh every time I read about this generic 19" - harshness correlations on-line. In the case of a Superb DCC in particular it becomes borderline ridiculous. Just a few highlights and comparisons from my own experience: a) Between cars like the Fabia, Polo, C3, Corsa, Golf GTI (all below 19") and a Skoda Superb Sportline DCC on 19" in Normal mode, the Superb was by far the most comfortable and least unsettling ride, yes even vs those smaller city cars on 15"s that you'd expect to be more easy-going. b) In one particular case, the change from 18" Potenza S001 to 19" PS4S did in fact improve the ride instead of making it worse despite going one size up. Just how un-necessarily stiff the S001 were vs the Michelins. Any ride complaints on a DCC Superb, 9/10 are due to a combination of stiff sidewall tires, wrong pressures and bad roads, it's a very forgiving setup. Unless you're coming from Airmatic of-course EDIT: I realized I had missed a "least" before the word unsettling, which probably gave off a contraddicting message , fixed now!

Ask yourself what is the reason you are considering a downpipe, i guess the answer would be: "for the performance it unlocks", correct? Which means you do need a stage 2 map at that point to fully profit from the extra flow, not a stage 1 that is designed for the stock exhaust system. Aside from configured to run on an uprated downpipe, stage 2 maps also remove CEL triggers so that's another reason to go straight to that. The JB4 is not a full tune that will take care of such matters, so there's good chance you'll get a CEL with that if running an upgraded downpipe. That actually depends on the downpipe and catalyst used, some have seen it come on others not but it's a possibility. MK7/7.5R downpipes fit the 280 Superb too (assuming they are for the non-OPF models). If you want my personal opinion, a downpipe / stage 2 value is minimal considering the cost vs the gains you get from stage 1. Most people would admit they just got bored after their stage 1 and wanted to modify something more so the dp makes sense after stage 1 & intake is done, but it's nowhere near the transformation effect you get from stock > stage 1. My advice would be taking it easy and going with just a remap to begin with, see how you like it and keep in mind you've already sampled around 80% of the additional "easy" horses this engine can offer for a joke cost. If after that, you 're still after every last performance drop then sure stage 2 would be your option but one step at a time works better for many reasons.

Was looking at one of these a while ago as the looks and overall package of the G20 is very attractive but prices were at 52-56K EUR a year ago when they first rolled out. Today, 12 month old examples with as little as 5-10K km are 25% down at around 410K, shocking depreciation (at least in Sweden). Anyway the price drop works for me and this thread made me consider one tbh so I was checking the performance potential of the B48 last night. It's probably the TSI ea888 gen3's willingness to gain horses at a rate of almost 100bhp with a simple remap that has spoiled me and makes the 330i rather disappointing in that aspect. Barely hitting 310bhp for a stage 1 (up from 258 as stock) and then around 340-350 for a stage 2 costing ~2.5K EUR, only to be able to complete the 100-200 run slower than a stage 1 Superb/Golf R... I don't know if the 330i comes with a rather small-ish and limited turbo? or there is some other limitation in terms of fueling or thermal management as those numbers are on the low side for a modern, 2.0 turbocharged engine from a premium German manufacturer, the flipside though is that for those who don't mind it makes tuning temptation more resistible when weighing gains vs. cost and risk. Too bad the M340i is such a big step up in price....

I think Marky was referring to the gearbox limiting torque, not drivetrain losses from crank to wheels which is also true, but a different thing. Yes the gearbox has torque limiters in place to prevent too much torque getting through. This is one of the reasons you tune the DSG to raise those limiters as especially for stage 2 it can be that you are not seeing what the engine is making if hitting the limit especially in low rpm. However, with a tuning box, the gearbox never actually "sees" any extra torque as the ECU is tricked into thinking it's working within the OEM parameters.

DQ250 is a solid gearbox, no concerns really with handing extra torque up to at least stage 2 levels (500-520Nm). DQ381 is supposed to be even more robust but untill tried during similar years/mileage as the DQ250 has been through we can't say for sure.

No DSG remap is "needed" per se for the typical stage 1 power levels. However depending on a) how the map is set and b) the conditions and driving scenarios it could be that the gearbox becomes jerkier/less smooth in certain occassions due to the added torque going through. It's not something you can't do post-tuning though if you find out the behaviour of the DSG has changed considerably (doubt it unless you really beat it everywhere) and on the DQ250 6-speed like yours it's less of a "need" than in the DQ381 I'd say based on my experience.