newbie69

It doesn't sound right, at least if it has DCC it should be pretty planted in Sport mode even at quite high speeds. I remember you had some excessive vibration issues too, not sure if there's a relation between them. A friend drove mine recently on the highway, it's a SportLine DCC on Eibachs and he was surprised as to how steady and reassuring the car felt, he said he barely needed to be touching the steering wheel, and Lane Assist was off at the time.

Not really. The 280/272 has already 340mm vented rotors as stock so the benefits of the Clubsports discs are mainly aesthetic (drilled is not my cup of tea tbh), and the 900gr weight saving is not worth it alone. Maybe as a OEM+ replacement if they needed replacement but it's not that time yet and at 400EUR I'd be looking elsewhere. Definitely not going to improve performance alone. As a cheap and effective approach that would provide better bite and reasonable endurance you should be looking for: pads, fluid, lines, leaving rotors for the end. Even a proper big brake kit might not have that much of a dramatic improvement in braking distance, but it would provide better feel and most importantly: consistent performance hard brake after hard brake where the OEM or half-upgraded setup would start to fade. This is not a scenario that I'm encountering at the moment though so I've kept the OEM setup.

My understanding is that if the internal vanes are directional/curved you'd need to install the rotor so that the outter tip of the vanes is pointing/exiting to the rear of the car, so that dust is expelled easier with the centrifugal force during rotation. The other way round the vanes would just suck in dust and overall cooling would be inhibited over time. If the internal vanes are straight, orientation makes no difference obviously. I believe the Clubsport S rotors have directional internal vanes but the issue with those rotors, as with other VAG OEM rotors is that as there is only one p/n, not a Left and Right one which means one rotor will always end up being installed in the wrong direction. That's the reason probably some Cupra owners with the optional Brembo setup that have really pushed their cars on the track have reported one side (rotor) being bent and going wrong over time (i'm guessing the one with vanes pointing to the front). I haven't done brakes on the Superb but for the money the CSS rotors cost, and the lack of a proper Left and Right item, I'd choose another aftermarket solution. Even if typical road use is not enough to showcase the lack of orientation my OCD would hit hard seeing one side being installed the wrong way

But was it in a DCC/adaptive system or the passive ones? There's quite a difference to the ride between the two, at least in Comfort mode.

30k miles is more understandable, mine was at less than half that mileage (22k km = ~ 14k miles) which is rather shocking.

Not forged though! Don't let the fancy marketing name "Fusionforged" trick you, they are just flow formed which is of-course better than cast ones, but still doesn't compare to truly forged wheels. And for ~350EUR/piece they could never be anyway.

Haldex oil change and screen cleaning Actually I'm lying since I did this a week or so ago but I didn't find the time to post it here too, still i think it'd be interesting for others to see what a Haldex screen looks like after just 22K km and 2 years of age, (albeit one that has seen its fair share of Launch Control) Remember, this is an item that is supposed to never be disassembled and cleaned during the lifetime of the car, just an oil change is foreseen every 30K km... It'll be on my private maintenace schedule every 12-18 months depending on usage and signs of clogging (trumping during launching or when the AWD should be fully engaged). The Haldex reset after cleaning seems to have helped too.

I think that photo is from some auto or tuning shop. If you're asking, I think the Ispiri FFP2 look amazing but you would have every right in saying I'm biased since well... I run them

TVS are the DSG masters really, I'd go with them again even if the DSG remap cost me more than the REVO stage 1 It's worked really good and the 0-xx times seem to be the lowest i've seen in a Superb or similar power/weight car, mine has the DQ380 7-speed though which was more quirky during launching when remaped but with stock DSG map. Regarding Haldex, no one has remapped it per se even in the Golf R/ Audi S3/RS3/TTRS scene. But you can improve it a lot in terms of cornering with some of the aftermarket controllers available. Not that it would affect the 0-60/0-100/1/4 mile times though as even as stock, when Launch Control is engaged the Haldex clutch is 100% engaged anyway and torque is split 50-50 (assuming equivalent traction is available front and rear)

That's more like it! The DSG tune helps a lot with times from a standstill if you're really after lower ones, mine droped at least half a second after the DSG remap.

Not sure if it's a hatch or estate you have, but i tried to get a steel grey at least! hope that helps: Bola B17 Veeman VFS34 Personally I like the Veeman a bit more I think, they'd be wonderful to clean I'm sure

I should be able to create something for you, although don't expect anything beyond amateur level

Wet on the school run sounds far from an ideal condition repeat it in the wet and report back! Is it tuned? If so it should be in the 3's even in average conditions!

Hehe, why do I get the idea you have been driving the car exclusively in D mode for all these years? Or if having driven it in Sport you've only done so by setting the entire car in Sport mode? Again, as I said in my first message, there is a differentiation between the DSG's D and S modes, these ONLY concern the shifting patterns and gear holding limits, nothing to do with car's modes. The "correct" way to switch between DSG modes is directly flicking back the lever while in D position, not via the car's modes, this is an indirect and un-necessarily complicated approach. You can be having the car set in Eco, Comfort or Normal (for the respective DCC and engine response behaviour), while at the same time having the DSG in S in order to hold on to gears longer and exploit the power if desired, for example while an overtaking. This can/should be achieved by this instant flicking i describe, not changing drive modes. Furthermore, there is a dedicated P, R, N, and D position for the DSG lever, but there is no separate S position as you are assuming in your post. The same position can have the DSG set in either D or S, and you switch between them by flicking the lever back briefly (it will always return to the position marked as "D" in the console panel, but it will show "S" in the dash). I bet this is what Kenny R meant too, not that you are putting the DSG lever in "S" position, as there is simply no "S" position, but that during your moving of the lever from P to D you are maybe pushing a little bit more and the lever enters D position and further flicks back (only takes a little bit of force) and so switches to S1. Which actually sounds like the only logical explanation for the car to be in S after turn off, happens to me too sometimes if I am really in a rush during say a reverse maneuver, i can pull the lever all the way from R to D and a further back, then this spring-movement is engaged and it switches to S. I'm eager to hear if that was the case or if you were aware of all what I write already and something else is going on.

Just to clarify, DSG mode (D or S in the dash) is not to be confused with the car's Drive Mode (Eco, Normal, Sport, Individual), it merely defines the shifting characteristics of the DSG irrespectively of any other car setting/mode. If the DSG starts in "S" indeed, which is weird I agree, you don't need to go through modes to put it back to "D", a simple flick back of the gear knob suffices to switch from D to S and back as you probably know. IF, flicking the knob doesn't do the trick of changing from S1 to D1, then definitely an issue. As far as I recall, pre-MY19 cars are restarting in the last Drive mode they were before turned off, (Eco, Normal, Sport, Individual) which is something post-MY19 owners are envying usually, but the DSG is, and always has been, restarting in D1, never S1.

Ah, if it's not you paying then it doesn't matter, OEM everything!

But how didn't you go for Bilstein B6 DCC? You could upgrade all 4 for the same price Skoda quoted just for the two fronts, and have better handling and a product that should not fail again or at least would be serviceable...

Ah, I see, too bad I was expecting some disassembly tips when I saw your reply Only joking of-course! Not a problem.

I'm sorry 1800EUR just for the 2 front shocks? OEM DCC or BIlstein B6? You got me confused.

Yes of-course I didn't mean the actual "key" (the electronic board), but like, if you only bought the metal bits and attached them to your old case instead of the plastic ones or a full case, clear now. So then, how did you remove the internal rubber-like housing, the one that holds the battery, from the bottom plastic part of the key fob? I tried briefly yesterday but i was stuck at that point. I popped the bottom cover, undid the Torx screw that keeps the bottom metal bit in place and took that out, but from that point on I was unsure how to remove either the top metal bit (no screws visible) or the internal housing... so i let it be before i collected more information. I can't find any Youtube videos showing the process on these particular design keys either, mostly on the previous ones with the flipping blade design.

Did you buy the full fob or just the metal ends? I remembed I had seen somewhere the metal bits can be individually replaced? And for the logo you took it off and then glued it back?

My car came with 3 keys, one of which featured metal, shiny ends and became the main one, and two more in a full black plastic enclosure. I noticed that even before the 2 year mark the "premium" one with the metal bits has got a few marks on its plastic body and even more weird, considering I have always kept it in a separate little pouch and hardly ever take it out of it (it's got KESSY), the little Skoda logo on it seems to have become discoloured even with its minimal exposure So I was wondering about replacing the fob with a brand new one, the full plastic body + metal end bits My question is can the key be safely transplanted to a new case/fob and if so any idea of the OEM part numbers without dropping by the dealership?

Looking good! A buddy of mine just picked up a MY21 estate in this colour in SportLine and it looks amazing, it suits the estate very well. As others said aesthetic mods are subjective, I can't come to like almost any of the front spoilers available for the PRE-FL, side skirts still unsure, rear diffuser yes! I also genuinely detest wind deflectors but hey, your car, your choices! I do like those wheels A LOT and I salute you going for 20", they look fully OEM (should have done the same when I upgraded mine). With some mild lowering and 15mm spacers they will stand out so much more as I found out with mine. As for the exhaust tips, again: personally, I'd either go oval like on a RS4 or keep OEM, the quad tips on the Superb scream "aftermarket here" and not in a positive way, in my eyes at least.

Damn you have me intrigued into going back to the car lift now and try again, I entered the adaptations and tried to do it without having entered the code, then it threw an error. I then went back and entered it but maybe it needed to reset by starting all over?!

Tried to do this yesterday on my 2019 but I was getting an error like "incorrect sequence" or similar when selecting "Adapting with deflected wheels" from the basic settings. I assumed Ignition ON, Engine OFF?