Chris_55

Please excuse the double post, I've been having problems with the drivers side window on a 2008 Fabia: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299454-fabia-ii-2-2008-model-problem-with-drivers-electric-window/ I wondered if any one could advise if the window switch action or anything else useful for diagnosis can be seen on measuring blocks in VCDS, these are no relevant fault codes logged.

If you've already paid for a VCDS license, then you should be able to get a modern cable at a discounted rate, have a word with Gendan or Ilexa.

Not sure about VCDS lite but on the older versions there was a screen, I think the 'about' one, where you could confirm that the software is properly registered. Have you had a look at yours?

You may find this does what you want: http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGVG2.html

It stopped raining for a bit today so I had a look at the window again. Tried lubricating runners with silicone grease but window seems to move freely (when it does move). Ignition on engine not running operate window from closed position, operated to halfway down and stopped, it would then not operate up or down, just a relay clicking type noise from inside the door. Left it for a about 1/2 hour, still would not work from the window switch or the door lock. Decided to try with the engine running, on the 3rd or 4th attempt the window closed, gave up at this point as rain started. As the motor would not operate from the door switch or door lock, I'm assuming the door switch is OK. The symptoms suggest to me that an overload is operating prematurely and has to cool before the motor will operate again, I guess this maybe inside the motor/ecu. Or maybe there's a poor power connection that running the engine just gives enough extra voltage to overcome. I'd apreciate any suggestions or further tests before I change the motor/ecu at £160.

Thanks Estate man, Thinking about it further it did seem as the window glass had gone deeper into the door than normal when it stuck. When I managed to get it to lift a couple of inches the window seemed a bit off level the back being lower than the front by about 1/4". As I don't drive the car that much I'm not really familiar with what's normal however. I guess these symptoms would line up with your thoughts re friction. When its stops raining I'll give your suggestion a try.

Attached missing VCDS scan: Also question, is there anything in measuring blocks data that would help diagnose the problem? Scan 2008 Fabia 2-36060km-22406mi-29-12-13.txt

Thanks, perhaps you could let me know the cost if you don't mind!

I've done a search and found some mention of problems with electric windows but I've not found an answer to the problem I'm having with our 2008 Level 2 model, I hope someone can help. Symptoms: Driver's window one touch facility often stops working, when this happens the window will open OK but when trying to close it operates in a series of stutters. The window will only move on the first 'up' switch position (stuttering) lifting the switch to the fully up position causes the window to stop. This condition can be 'reset' for a few days by operating the external door lock with the key to the lock position and holding it over for a few seconds until the windows are fully closed, as described in the 2008 handbook. Today the problem got worse, opened the driver's window fully to get car park ticket at barrier, window would not close. When the driver's door window switch was operated there were 'clicks' from what seemed to be inside the door but no window movement. After repeated tries (ignition on /off, key in the door reset tried and failed) the window did move up a couple of inches on the old stuttering fashion. After some time letting it rest, tried closing the window again with the engine running (thought some extra battery volts may help) on the third or fourth attempt window stuttered towards closed position and then the one shot function took over and closed the window fully. Gave up while ahead and did not move the window again as it was getting too dark/wet to risk it. Things tried previously without success: Drivers door window switch dismantled & cleaned, nothing found wrong. Wiring in drivers door hinge repaired for a different problem, symptom existed before this repair and after. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/281191-2008-model-drivers-door-switch-failure/?hl=%2Bdoor+%2Bswitch#entry3483280 VCDS scan taken today, but does not seem to help, file attached. Anyone able to suggest what's wrong please?

I soldered extra lengths of wire in and used heat shrink tubing to insulate, I also used croc clips to hold the wire going towards the door, this helped.

Have you looked at the wiring at the door hinge, it maybe helpful: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/281191-2008-model-drivers-door-switch-failure/?hl=%2Bdoor+%2Bswitch#entry3483280

Do you mean the control unit attached to the winder motor?, if so then the wire connects to the door switch (and the central electical unit via the door loom) to indicate the door is open. It should connect to terminal 4 of the connector for the motor ECU and co-incidentally terminal 4 of the door loom connector and terminal 2 of the door swtich. I think the function is to prevent the glass being moved unless the door is closed.

More familiar with petrol readings but the MAF sensor does not seem to be operating correctly.

Tackled the job today, please see attached. Pity I started by taking the door switch out and found nothing wrong, then looked for the wiring fault! Skoda Fabia 2008 door wiring fault.pdf

Anyone had any experience of fixing this? Found some info in the web suggesting poor solder joints on golfs etc. which involves removing the window winder carrier to gain access to the lock module. Does the Fabia II have the same setup?

You should be able to buy a new cable at a discount http://store.ross-te.../cat/IntUp.html Have a word with Gendan or ilexa.

We bought a hatchback version new in 2008, it replaced a Fabia Mk I auto 1.4 which was seriously underpowered. The car has been fine, the only warrantee return was for the peeling rubber at the bottom of the 'A' pillar black strips. Fuel economy is not bad, it can do 40+ mpg on a run, it has reasonable performance for what it is.

Personally I'd take it back to the seller and say the alarm doesn't work.

Is the DSG available with this engine?

"professional manner"

Have a look in the handbook, but from memory you need to push the button by the handbrake to recaibrate the system after fitting new tyres.

It would be interesting if they came up with the same arguement over tyres.

Another option: http://www.ilexa.co.uk/acatalog/vagcom.html

Could you say where the poor earth was please?

Any help here? http://elsaweb.spaghetticoder.org/