wokwon

And when you go over 125. Or is it 140?

Yes that's what I have and yes it can be installed with the virtual pedal. The kit for that towball actually comes with a new set of sensors for the virtual pedal as the originals need to be removed and repositioned which would destroy the adhesive tape. The dealer who installed my tow kit (Geelong) didn't install the replacement sensors, they just taped them to the bumper with painters tape. Consequently every time I walked past the rear of the car the boot opened. I had to remove the bumper and attach them in the correct position using the adhesive tape that was already on them but never used by the dealer. To be fair to them, they were newly a Skoda dealer having previously been Ford I think so the techs were probably learning as they go. I scanned the installation manual and attached it to this post if you'd like to review it.

It was installed pre-delivery, presumably by the dealer. (wasn't a perfect job but that is off topic). If it's out, and you pull the button it flops down and then you push it back up with your foot until it goes "clonk" and the magnet sticks again. You can't remove the actual tow ball, it's the same piece of metal as the gooseneck. Very different to the typical Hayman-Reese thingo that is common in AU.

I had it from delivery, that's pretty much how it works. Do you have any specific questions? It sits pretty close to the bumper, how much clearance do you need for the bike rack?

Even max brightness it's not that bright. I had the door cards off once and took a look. They consist of two LEDs per card and a light pipe. The LEDs are roughly in the middle. The LEDs connection to the car seems to be some sort of signalling connection, it's not just LEDs powered by e.g. the door module. Each emitter board had a SOIC-8 chip on it (I couldn't find any info about this from the part number but it's probably similar to an I2C LED driver type thing). So basically, the car seems to talk to the lights via a signalling protocol and the little board itself converts that to the RGB to drive the LED. Would need something like a logic analyser to reverse engineer the protocol. Of course if you wanted you could just solder directly to the LED emitter and drive it that way too. . . .

Yes you do need to remove the bumper, but it's actually not that hard: ---- ---

Thanks @DEL80Y I found them this weekend, after a week of the drivers side footwell being...sloshy. The Superb 2 (3T ~2013) Combi front drains come down the corners of the plastic sunroof tray and terminate in a rubber grommet in the door frame, in between the top and bottom door hinges. You don't need to remove the plenum cover like my version of ELSA tells me to (it lies). I also couldn't get a bowden cable down it from either end, possibly because of the guk in it. As a last resort, I turned the regulator on the compressor wayy down and blew air in from the top and it blew the guk out and worked after that without needing to lower the roof lining at the front. I suspect I was very lucky I didn't blow the hoses off. The rear, just dropped the head lining (in the combi it's just velcro'd on), popped the hoses off the nipples at the sunroof tray and blew them out too. The bottom end is behind the bumper bar and I didn't feel like taking that off so I was lucky that it cleared from the top (one was totally blocked, one was slow). At the same time I pulled off the front wheel arch liner and cleared the leaves and miscellaneous organic matter out. So I guess if someone else gets stuck, try a gentle air compressor. And while the Octavia and Yeti's hoses end up behind the plenum cover, the Superbs ones come down into the door frame.

Agree with pab567. @psycho6149 I've no idea which of the below applies to your car but hope it helps. --- --- ---

Interesting failure mode, hope the replacement goes OK.

Most likely it's the wiring in the door bellows that has broken, this has happened to a lot of people. A search for door wiring broken should come up with some good guides. For the door card:

Does anyone know exactly where the drains for the Superb Pano roof are? The manual says they're in the 4 corners and I'm supposed to shove a bowden cable down it once a year to clean it out, but I've not been able to actually find the opening. @rado99 It's been quite a 2 years, eh.

Only things I can add are: - You cannot have any bulb out errors or it will refuse to work (your cluster is clear in the picture so we know it's not that) - You need to have driven forward some distance with the trailer attached so that the camera can recognise the trailer I initially had the same problem as you, and was not offered the assist. After driving forward for a couple of hundred metres the next time trailer assist worked. TBH though, I'm faster without it although much less elegant.

Hi Nick, not sure then, the first diagram should apply but it wouldn't be the first time the documentation is wrong. Do you have any more information on where the wire goes to? I.e to a plug, and if so, how many connector pins in the plug? A VCDS or VAS scan would probably tell you if it was important as you'd see a module report either an open or missing or implausible signal.

You don't say the trim level, so I guessed Elegance. According to this diagram, the black wire from the pin blower plug goes off to the sunroof solar panel. Do you have a sunroof solar panel thingy? If not, please state if you have climatronic (the automatic temperature one) or climatic (the manual temperature one). I've included the 2nd diagram for climatic, but the blower doesn't seem to have a black wire there.

The cap on mine, I think, says up to B5 so that's up to 5% biodiesel. Personally I think it'd run fine, but I'd be worried about long term use as the fuel is also used to lubricate parts (e.g. the lift pump, the high pressure fuel pump, the injectors etc) and would be worried that the lubricity wouldn't be enough. I'd also worry about the effect on the DPF.

Note, this stuff changes all the time, however...

The polycarbonate is covered with a thin film to slow the clouding/yellowing that raw polycarbonate gets. You have to be gentle when wiping them, especially if dust is on the cloth or polycarb. Presumably this is something to do with blocking UV but I'm not sure and haven't looked into it. Basically treat them the same as plastic eyeglass lenses that also usually have films (e.g. anti reflection films). If you damage the film, you'll just have more scratches, unevenness and potential for clouding or yellowing all of which are treatable; just that if you're careful then you won't have to treat it. As a poster above said, you can't avoid rocks, bug guts, birbs, birb poo etc but you can avoid damaging it yourself.

This bit that I've surrounded in red is just velcro'd and clipped in, if you stuck your fingers in the gap/join at the top you can gently remove it and take a look. Failing anything behind that, it's a giant pain in the arse to get the other bits out so you'd be best to just get a new card.

Yep I have changed the HID bulbs in my pre-fl Superb, it takes 5 mins. Make super-sure you don't touch the glass or they'll fail really early. The front indicator bulbs in the pre-fl Superb on the other hand.....The person responsible for that will be among the first against the wall when the revolution comes.

Do you have a part number for the pair of these duct/bellows? The clips are broken on one of mine. It's hanging in there but I don't want to try to remove it to look for a part number.

This is applied by the two radar modules that are used for the lane change warning. They are also used for the Rear Traffic Alert. They are radar units, not ultrasonic like parking sensors. The MY19s had shorter ranged units (about 10m I think) and this was upgraded in MY20 to 70m or something but I'm not sure why. It is indicated on the infotainment screen by the red/orange wedges. Orange "warning", red "will brake" I've had a small shrub moving in the wind set this off while reversing.

If the start-stop stops the engine, and you open the drivers door, mine does something like that. You have to turn the car off first

I work in IT. Closing and opening all the windows is the first thing we do when something goes wrong.

@DawidDre is yours the wagon or the liftback? I can have a look in my copy of Elsa for the trim instructions.

Are you climatic (the manual one with 4 fan speeds) or climatronic (the fully automatic one with 7 or 8 fan speeds). If it's climatronic, the fan doesn't have a resistor. The speed is varied using pulse width modulation. For climatic: