wokwon

Sunroof? Your drains are blocked. This forum has some suggestions around it, try the search term 'sunroof drains'. I used an air compressor on mine with limit set to 30PSI.

My Kodiaq (2nd MY19 I've owned) has MIB 2, not MIB2.5. I think some time in 2020 the AU models changed to MIB2.5 as I had a loan car during a service with that awful spinny circle interface thingy. That's a shame about the maps, I'll look at the BMW solution, thanks.

MY19 Kodiaq in Australian market. I used to occasionally go to https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ but recently when I've done that and put the VIN in, I get a "There were no maps for the VIN". I don't even get offered the older maps. Does anyone know if VAG has stopped producing updates for the MIB2? I'll ask the dealer at next service but they're generally pretty clueless and usually more occupied with leaving snarky comments on the service record about my modifications.

Our 2013 3T Superb Elegance Combi came with the RNS-510 (Columbus) and the amplifier under the passenger seat. I added a Tiguan handle reversing camera about 6 months into ownership. The RNS-510 is really showing it's age so it seemed like time for an update. I gambled on the Eonon Q53Pro as it claimed to 'Work with Fender Audio' which in some markets is what Volkswagen calls the amplifier package. Turns out, yes it does, with no config needed. The unit works well: - Android Auto and Carplay work fine, flawlessly in wireless mode. The Android Auto seems to be a bit flakey in the wired mode but Carplay was fine in wired mode. - Worked with the amp, no special wiring or adapters other than what was supplied needed - Came with a dual-fakra socket to handle the dual radio antennas (some reviews mentioned that it needed a diversity adapter as it had only one antenna socket, my unit came with the adapter) - It has configurable sleep. I set it to 1-day, so as long as the car is driven within 24 hours start-up is instant. Otherwise startup takes around 30 seconds - The reversing camera, I got the A0580 converter and it just works. The old camera looks low-def on the large screen of this unit when it looked fine on the (comparatively) tiny screen of the RNS-510. I might install the supplied Analogue High Def camera as that should have a better picture and in theory will be able to show maneuvering lines. - Steering wheel controls work fine. The volume can be a bit laggy some times but it does work. Skip forward and back are fine. - Ultrasonic sensors work fine and have the car-info on screen, both front and rear - Bright/dark etc works automatically with headlights. Unfortunately this unit only has red-button illumination. I understand the newer unit has configurable button color - The mic that came with it for hands-free is ok but not great. I'll probably make a near-field cancellation circuit and replace with that. - Sound quality is fine and super-configurable. The tired 10 speakers in that car sound way better than they did on the RNS-510. An oddity is that there is no working front-rear fader. Fading to the rear results in no sound at all. It's not a deal-breaker for me. Yes, rear speakers are working. Bonus is there is a sub-out which I might make use of as I have a Blaupunkt active sub from two cars ago sitting in the garage. It came with a GPS patch antenna, but I got a Fakra to SMA adapter so I could use the inbuilt roof antenna. It works 100% I used VCDS to code out the old nav unit and bluetooth unit. This wasn't needed for correct operation, it was just flagging fault codes in the logs. Downsides (but none are deal breakers for me): - You can't turn it on without ignition being on. Once ign on, it will stay on until drivers door is opened. - Interface is wildly inconsistent both with styling between functions and some odd translations - Charging from the car-play USB port is very slow. I don't use it now, I use a proper QC capable charger and let Android Auto/Carplay be wireless - No 4g modem in this one. The newer unit does have this. - No SD card slot, although it has a spare USB port and you could plug mass-storage into this if you wanted. - Bluetooth data sharing: It seems to be capable of using the data from my phone via bluetooth, but it stops when the Android Auto connects and then to get it working again needs to be toggled and reconnected. - Fuel remaining is mistranslated as "Remained Oil". This is technically correct I guess as Diesel is fuel-oil - It does support pop-up of HVAC settings, but it randomly pops up when no adjustment has been made. I turned it off as the HVAC panel shows everything you need to know anyway - It supports a pop-up for door-open status, but it shows a generic drivers door open picture regardless of door and covers up the interface so you can't do anything else. I turned it off - The row of capacitive buttons below the screen are super-sensitive and easy to mis-press if you're trying to hit an on-screen button near the bottom of the screen. - I've not figured out how to set the AM radio to 9kHz channel spacings yet. Have emailed support to ask. - The old AUX port and the weird iPod connector thingy in the centre storage obviously doesn't work any more as it's not connected to anything. I don't think I ever used this anyway. Oddly, my iPod classic 160GB was still in there, plugged in and still worked. I forgot about it probably 5 years ago. - The volume control is a bit coarse. This may be an artifact of having the under seat amp, but the jumps between levels are significant. Some pics of the unit installed. It does poke out a bit around the edges but not obnoxiously so. So the point of this post is, if you're sick of your RNS-510 but like me were worried about the under seat amp, don't be. This unit was around $500 Australian Dollarydoos including the GPS antenna adapter and the camera adapter.

Interesting, thanks. Mine came pre-assembled. Makes me wonder now if they were counterfeit.

The valve stem on the ones I ordered are part of the sensors. As far as I can tell the valves themselves are just bog standard schrader valves screwed into the stem. If you do find out that they are a variant of the standard schrader valve please do update this thread as I'd like to know that.

I retrofitted the TPMS to my Skodiaq, but I've used 5Q0907275 sensors. I did make the mistake once of choosing Chinese clones of them and they all failed (all 4) within about 9 months. Since then I've replaced them all with branded (Huf) units which have all lasted. The failure mode was that they'd start reporting 0psi for a short time which would get longer and longer until they stop reporting completely. The ebay items for these sensors claim these part numbers are interchangeable although I've not validated it: 5Q0907275B,5Q0907275C,3AA998275,5Q0998270 I just change them myself when they failed as I have a bead breaker and some 600mm tyre irons. The TPMS module that I fitted to the car was 5Q0907273B; not sure if different modules have different sensor requirements (regional frequencies maybe).

Presumably they mean a 'clean display mode'. My home alarm panel has this, where you start the mode and touches are not registered for 30 seconds while you wipe the display.

I got a third party one from AliExpress that fitted perfectly and came with the correct clips. The link is now dead but you might want to search there too.

It's probably the whole door card. There are two actual LED emitters in the middle, each one feeds into a light pipe that spreads it out. Sounds like one of the emitters has failed. If they can just replace the emitter (it's a little PCB) great, but not sure it has a single SKU which might mean the whole card gets replaced. For the modules: See my post here:

Even without the stop start, mine sits at 14-ish for a while until it thinks it's replaced the starting energy then drops back to 13.6 for the rest of the trip. That's IMO too low, I'd prefer 13.8 or so for the lead-acid-calcium battery. If you've got an AGM I'd want even higher. They keep the voltage low for an emissions reduction thing (less alternator load = less fuel = fewer emissions). I don't know of the stop-start models have brake-energy-recuperation; I suspect that came in with the MQB platform. You'll want a DC-DC charger regardless of 'smart' alternator or not and they're pretty inexpensive these days considering the improvement in charging times they offer. You'd also be advised to run better wiring from the main fuse box under the bonnet to your caravan. Here in AU we tend to run large cables to an 'Anderson' plug at the rear bumper for charging van house batteries. Not sure what is typical in EU but having seen the wiring in the OEM trailer loom I'm not satisfied it can supply much current without significant voltage drop, further emphasising the need for a DC-DC charger.

Yes, mine rattled/creaked and had the frame replaced around year 3 which improved it but not 100%, still creaked a bit. It's also leaked when the drains blocked up, but I was aware this could happen and am now aware the dealers usually don't bother to complete the service item to clear the drains. I DIY it now annually. Now at year 10 the rubber is getting hard, brittle and flaky so we don't open it any more. That may be a regional thing, the Australia sun is harsh. It was a key reason why I didn't get a sunroof in the Kodiaq; the reputation of VW sunroofs.

Assumption: Elegance trim = climatronic (the automatic one), not climatic (the manual one) Not specifically linked. The relay for the rear-demister is controlled from the J519 control unit (AKA central electronics) whereas the blower motor control unit J126 is powered directly from the fuse box. Both of these units are instructed to operate by the climatronic control panel J255 but the magnitude of the rear window heating is simply on/off via a relay so I can't seem them being related. More likely the poor heating is due to a bad connection, perhaps on the glass connectors (that's just a guess from me). TLDR: J255 (Clima panel) --CAN--> J519 (CE) --POWER--> Relay --POWER--> Rear Demister J255 (Clima panel) --CAN--> J126 (blower control unit) --POWER--> Blower fan A VCDS or VAS scan would be helpful.

Oddly I couldn't find this adaptation in my Superb 2. My VCDS doesn't show this as an available adaptation channel in the 3T0 907 044 BS controller. But the change works fine in the Kodiaq (MQB Platform) and does indeed get hotter.

When I told the local 3rd party VW service guy (Volkstech in Bundoora) down here that I'd bought a Kodiaq he said "I'll see you when we replace the water pump under warranty".

This one is fairly common when the battery is disconnected. Roll the window fully up and hold the button for a second. Roll it back down and hold the button. Then repeat once. It'll re-learn its endstops and the one touch will work again. Can't help with the other stuff, sorry. I think, and someone may confirm, that the drivers door has the master module and the other doors have slave modules. So if the wiring to the master module is dodgy, then the slaves will be affected. I may be totally wrong with this (it could be the front doors are masters for the rear doors). A VCDS scan might reveal what is going on, or at least what is not communicating.

Welcome to the colonies. Watch out for roos at dawn and dusk.

Interesting, is this changeable in the adaptation? I might have a fiddle and see.

Hi @Graham Butcher your OP sounds similar to what I experienced when I had a cell in the battery fail. I drove to work fine, but when I went to go home that day the car wouldn't start and the dash lights went on and off with a lot of clicking. The battery looked like it was charging, voltage 13.8 - 14.something but wouldn't start the car. Had to replace it (RA came out and did it there). My Superb doesn't have stop start. It must have failed during the trip to work.

The back button on the steering wheel doesn't take you to the menu?

Mine is also very old, runs in a virtual windows 7 box but as my car is a 2013 it suffices. I can't speak of its provenance as the mods here are death on that sort of thing. In terms of the wiring, while I'm not qualified or an expert, I can't see how an airbag or tensioner/igniter can be fired if the battery is disconnected as they all need power to ignite. So in that sense, as long as you disconnect the battery I think you'd be fine to disconnect and reconnect. Here is what I managed to find in my copy (the front seat belt section pasted in just for the recommendation to disconnect the battery). They do bang on about ESD a lot but I expect that is an arse covering exercise as I have spent some small amount of time designing an automotive module for a car and they always have heavy ESD and input protection. The last section talks about when power is reconnected / re airbags and I've highlighted a particularly amusing section. Seems to be OSHA gone mad but presumably something bad has happened in the past and these clauses address it. For my own experience, I've never bothered but that may be survivor paradox talking there. Maybe you could leave the drivers window open and use a broom stick to press the start/stop button? You might need a brick on the brake pedal too I suppose. --- ---

See if this helps: ---

@Graham Butcher are you combi or sedan? I can pull it out of ELSA but I suspect they're quite difference hence the question.

If you're stuck you can always use the key to press the "start" button (instead of using your finger). That brings the key close enough to the button for the backup RFID reader to acknowledge the key. This bypasses the radio key check and will allow you to start the vehicle.

Yep that one: