wokwon

It's probably the whole door card. There are two actual LED emitters in the middle, each one feeds into a light pipe that spreads it out. Sounds like one of the emitters has failed. If they can just replace the emitter (it's a little PCB) great, but not sure it has a single SKU which might mean the whole card gets replaced. For the modules: See my post here:

Even without the stop start, mine sits at 14-ish for a while until it thinks it's replaced the starting energy then drops back to 13.6 for the rest of the trip. That's IMO too low, I'd prefer 13.8 or so for the lead-acid-calcium battery. If you've got an AGM I'd want even higher. They keep the voltage low for an emissions reduction thing (less alternator load = less fuel = fewer emissions). I don't know of the stop-start models have brake-energy-recuperation; I suspect that came in with the MQB platform. You'll want a DC-DC charger regardless of 'smart' alternator or not and they're pretty inexpensive these days considering the improvement in charging times they offer. You'd also be advised to run better wiring from the main fuse box under the bonnet to your caravan. Here in AU we tend to run large cables to an 'Anderson' plug at the rear bumper for charging van house batteries. Not sure what is typical in EU but having seen the wiring in the OEM trailer loom I'm not satisfied it can supply much current without significant voltage drop, further emphasising the need for a DC-DC charger.

Yes, mine rattled/creaked and had the frame replaced around year 3 which improved it but not 100%, still creaked a bit. It's also leaked when the drains blocked up, but I was aware this could happen and am now aware the dealers usually don't bother to complete the service item to clear the drains. I DIY it now annually. Now at year 10 the rubber is getting hard, brittle and flaky so we don't open it any more. That may be a regional thing, the Australia sun is harsh. It was a key reason why I didn't get a sunroof in the Kodiaq; the reputation of VW sunroofs.

Assumption: Elegance trim = climatronic (the automatic one), not climatic (the manual one) Not specifically linked. The relay for the rear-demister is controlled from the J519 control unit (AKA central electronics) whereas the blower motor control unit J126 is powered directly from the fuse box. Both of these units are instructed to operate by the climatronic control panel J255 but the magnitude of the rear window heating is simply on/off via a relay so I can't seem them being related. More likely the poor heating is due to a bad connection, perhaps on the glass connectors (that's just a guess from me). TLDR: J255 (Clima panel) --CAN--> J519 (CE) --POWER--> Relay --POWER--> Rear Demister J255 (Clima panel) --CAN--> J126 (blower control unit) --POWER--> Blower fan A VCDS or VAS scan would be helpful.

Oddly I couldn't find this adaptation in my Superb 2. My VCDS doesn't show this as an available adaptation channel in the 3T0 907 044 BS controller. But the change works fine in the Kodiaq (MQB Platform) and does indeed get hotter.

When I told the local 3rd party VW service guy (Volkstech in Bundoora) down here that I'd bought a Kodiaq he said "I'll see you when we replace the water pump under warranty".

This one is fairly common when the battery is disconnected. Roll the window fully up and hold the button for a second. Roll it back down and hold the button. Then repeat once. It'll re-learn its endstops and the one touch will work again. Can't help with the other stuff, sorry. I think, and someone may confirm, that the drivers door has the master module and the other doors have slave modules. So if the wiring to the master module is dodgy, then the slaves will be affected. I may be totally wrong with this (it could be the front doors are masters for the rear doors). A VCDS scan might reveal what is going on, or at least what is not communicating.

Welcome to the colonies. Watch out for roos at dawn and dusk.

Interesting, is this changeable in the adaptation? I might have a fiddle and see.

Hi @Graham Butcher your OP sounds similar to what I experienced when I had a cell in the battery fail. I drove to work fine, but when I went to go home that day the car wouldn't start and the dash lights went on and off with a lot of clicking. The battery looked like it was charging, voltage 13.8 - 14.something but wouldn't start the car. Had to replace it (RA came out and did it there). My Superb doesn't have stop start. It must have failed during the trip to work.

The back button on the steering wheel doesn't take you to the menu?

Mine is also very old, runs in a virtual windows 7 box but as my car is a 2013 it suffices. I can't speak of its provenance as the mods here are death on that sort of thing. In terms of the wiring, while I'm not qualified or an expert, I can't see how an airbag or tensioner/igniter can be fired if the battery is disconnected as they all need power to ignite. So in that sense, as long as you disconnect the battery I think you'd be fine to disconnect and reconnect. Here is what I managed to find in my copy (the front seat belt section pasted in just for the recommendation to disconnect the battery). They do bang on about ESD a lot but I expect that is an arse covering exercise as I have spent some small amount of time designing an automotive module for a car and they always have heavy ESD and input protection. The last section talks about when power is reconnected / re airbags and I've highlighted a particularly amusing section. Seems to be OSHA gone mad but presumably something bad has happened in the past and these clauses address it. For my own experience, I've never bothered but that may be survivor paradox talking there. Maybe you could leave the drivers window open and use a broom stick to press the start/stop button? You might need a brick on the brake pedal too I suppose. --- ---

See if this helps: ---

@Graham Butcher are you combi or sedan? I can pull it out of ELSA but I suspect they're quite difference hence the question.

If you're stuck you can always use the key to press the "start" button (instead of using your finger). That brings the key close enough to the button for the backup RFID reader to acknowledge the key. This bypasses the radio key check and will allow you to start the vehicle.

Yep that one:

And when you go over 125. Or is it 140?

Yes that's what I have and yes it can be installed with the virtual pedal. The kit for that towball actually comes with a new set of sensors for the virtual pedal as the originals need to be removed and repositioned which would destroy the adhesive tape. The dealer who installed my tow kit (Geelong) didn't install the replacement sensors, they just taped them to the bumper with painters tape. Consequently every time I walked past the rear of the car the boot opened. I had to remove the bumper and attach them in the correct position using the adhesive tape that was already on them but never used by the dealer. To be fair to them, they were newly a Skoda dealer having previously been Ford I think so the techs were probably learning as they go. I scanned the installation manual and attached it to this post if you'd like to review it.

It was installed pre-delivery, presumably by the dealer. (wasn't a perfect job but that is off topic). If it's out, and you pull the button it flops down and then you push it back up with your foot until it goes "clonk" and the magnet sticks again. You can't remove the actual tow ball, it's the same piece of metal as the gooseneck. Very different to the typical Hayman-Reese thingo that is common in AU.

I had it from delivery, that's pretty much how it works. Do you have any specific questions? It sits pretty close to the bumper, how much clearance do you need for the bike rack?

Even max brightness it's not that bright. I had the door cards off once and took a look. They consist of two LEDs per card and a light pipe. The LEDs are roughly in the middle. The LEDs connection to the car seems to be some sort of signalling connection, it's not just LEDs powered by e.g. the door module. Each emitter board had a SOIC-8 chip on it (I couldn't find any info about this from the part number but it's probably similar to an I2C LED driver type thing). So basically, the car seems to talk to the lights via a signalling protocol and the little board itself converts that to the RGB to drive the LED. Would need something like a logic analyser to reverse engineer the protocol. Of course if you wanted you could just solder directly to the LED emitter and drive it that way too. . . .

Yes you do need to remove the bumper, but it's actually not that hard: ---- ---

Thanks @DEL80Y I found them this weekend, after a week of the drivers side footwell being...sloshy. The Superb 2 (3T ~2013) Combi front drains come down the corners of the plastic sunroof tray and terminate in a rubber grommet in the door frame, in between the top and bottom door hinges. You don't need to remove the plenum cover like my version of ELSA tells me to (it lies). I also couldn't get a bowden cable down it from either end, possibly because of the guk in it. As a last resort, I turned the regulator on the compressor wayy down and blew air in from the top and it blew the guk out and worked after that without needing to lower the roof lining at the front. I suspect I was very lucky I didn't blow the hoses off. The rear, just dropped the head lining (in the combi it's just velcro'd on), popped the hoses off the nipples at the sunroof tray and blew them out too. The bottom end is behind the bumper bar and I didn't feel like taking that off so I was lucky that it cleared from the top (one was totally blocked, one was slow). At the same time I pulled off the front wheel arch liner and cleared the leaves and miscellaneous organic matter out. So I guess if someone else gets stuck, try a gentle air compressor. And while the Octavia and Yeti's hoses end up behind the plenum cover, the Superbs ones come down into the door frame.

Agree with pab567. @psycho6149 I've no idea which of the below applies to your car but hope it helps. --- --- ---

Interesting failure mode, hope the replacement goes OK.