wokwon

Unfortunately no, the LED headlights' controller is integrated in the headlight housing (it's actually a separate module but is screwed/plugged in to the headlight housing - "LED LEIMO MODULE" in the picture at the bottom). There isn't a relay for high beam as such as the LED units are temperature monitored and if they get too hot, the output is reduced (probably by using PWM). I have a wiring diagram but it's 60 MB so can't upload it here. The relevant screenshots out of it are below. Anyway, if you're handy and game, you could open up the headlight housing and tap a sense wire off the high beam emitter and use that to trigger a MOSFET or similar but of course your warranty will be voided by that. Or pop off the 'leimo' module and try to attach to that The diagram shows that there is a plug from the main beam emitter to the leimo module and you could access that. Unfortunately it's on the underside of the headlamp unit so you'll need to remove the front bumper which means you need to remove the wheel arch surrounds (and the clips on these ALWAYS break on me). There is another possible solution, the central electronics module has spare outputs that can be configured ex-factory as outputs. These are typically used for cars that are configured ex factory as taxis, driver training or safety cars etc to trigger auxiliary devices. I don't know how to configure these but I suspect it'd need VAS or ODIS. AU dealers will have NFI about these. Screenshot from the wiring diagram, you can see the big grey box "MX2" is the whole headlight housing unit, the A27 'leimo' controller module is within that and the headlamps are connected internally within the housing, and not exposed to the outside wiring.

Basic settings you need VAS or VCDS. Also if they're playing up (too low) search this forum for 'headlight level sender' as there are three of them on the suspension strut towers and if suspension work is carried out without being careful, then the arms break off the modules. https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/xenonalignment.html

Sorry, I don't know for your market. Here in 'straya, the dealers put such large markups on parts I tend to get mine from Ebay Germany or Ebay Lithuania for genuine OEM pats.

Heh, opposite from me. My Kodiaq came factory with all LEDs (The only non-led is the glove box light) and they are a really harsh cold white that I really don't like. I looked at them and they seem to be 3528 sized LEDs so I've ordered some 4000K ones to tame them down. That'll be a fun weekend, re-soldering surface mount LEDs. I would have been happy with nice warm halogen lights On a side note, I looked at the door strips. They are comprised of a single RGB LED that shines down a light pipe. There are two light pipes per door (covering roughly half each). The LED is mounted on a small PCB with a "811C6C M85267" 8 pin SOIC on it. That seems to be some sort of LED driver. The PCB has only 3 connections (presumably VCC, GND and data; I2C maybe?). The LED (roughly a 5050) on the PCB has 6 pins so it's either a RGB LED, or the old style WS2812-B (the new ones have 4 pins, the old ones had 6). The phosphor is cloudy, not clear so I'm guessing it's an RGB LED and not a WS2812 as I've never seen a cloudy one of those. This was disappointing as I'd hoped that the RGB signal came all the way from the door controller and that I would be able to tap off it, buffer and drive some more lights (e.g. light up the storage pocket). It seems instead there is some sort of comms protocol happening and with both not being able to find out what the IC is, and not having a logic analyser (and enough spare time ) I stopped there.

If no air flow, I'd say your fan blower motor has failed or the wiring to it has failed. A VCDS / VAS scan will probably tell you. The blower motor in LHD cars is behind the glove box. My document here (PDF) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/220727-option-code-or-part-number-for-ptc-heater-element/?do=findComment&comment=4990846 explains how to get the glove box out to inspect it. In terms of how to remove the actual motor, I'm not sure but others in this forum have done this before (sometimes some seals fail, rain gets in and the motor gets wet and fails). Before that though, assuming you have Climatronic (the automatic climate control thingy as opposed to the manual one where you just choose hotter or colder instead of a setpoint) try resetting the vent servo flaps. You can do this by holding in 'AC' and 'FACE AIR' buttons on the climatronic (I think, hopefully someone will confirm). The AC button light will flash and all the servos will drive themselves through the full movement to learn their endstops. You can hear this happening. If this doesn't happen, you might have a larger problem and should consider a scan with VCDS or VAS to get more info. OTOH if you have climatic (the non-automatic one) then I think it has an old-school fan speed resistor which might have failed. You can determine this by putting it on the highest fan setting and if the fan works there, but not at any lower setting then that's probably your problem. I'm thinking you have climatronic though as you mentioned that fan lights come on.

No recoding, the button is just a button. All the key token code stuff lives in the 'start authorisation unit' under the dash.

I might be remembering wrong, but I seem to recall there was a highline and lowline version of these. The highline one had tails also in the boot lid but the lowline did not.

You do the flap reset thingo. What that does is drives the flap all the way until it stalls. The HVAC controller makes a note of the position of the potentiometer attached to the motor for that end. Then it drives it all the other way until it stalls, makes a note. Then after that it more or less knows where it is relative to the ends.

I realise I didn't answer your actual question: Even with the digital amp thingy, there are only 4 channels from the Columbus to the digital amp. The amp has a built in crossover and individual wiring to the speakers. The amp also has a can-bus connection that performs at least power control (i.e turn off or on) and probably other stuff like changing EQ etc from the Columbus. Without the digital amp, still 4 channels, just directly connected to the Columbus. If you code for line level output, you'll get 4 channels line level output. There are 3rd party tricky boxes that can generate more channels from this (e.g. a center and sub) and perform proper EQ (using sampling microphones etc). I've not used any of them, I just came across them when looking to improve the audio and never got past the 'looking' stage. Also be aware that the tweeter in the doors is heat-staked on, not held in with screws. So if you're considering replacing it, it'll be a one way trip.

Should also point out, do not connect the battery while any airbag is unplugged. You might generate a code you cannot reset. Maybe.

This might be a bit mangled as ELSA gets confused between left and right hand drive, but see if this helps: (The potentiometer is built into the flap motor, it's a servo). I'm guessing you mean the face-vent outlet, not the foot outlet? I"m guessing the below is correct as it talks about knee air bag and I think only the driver side has it. You wouldn't need to take the dash, centre console or seats out. Go in from underneath the dash. I've not done the drivers side but I've had the pass side out a few times and it wasn't that hard. Here is the subsection for "remove right footwell vent": Here is 'remove knee airbag":

I *think*: Lowline: 4 channels from the columbus, crossover (probably just a capacitor across the tweeter) in the door, only 1 pair to each door so you'd need to put a crossover within the door. Highline (Elegance with the extra amp thing): Wiring to individual speakers in the doors, Tweeter, Mid and Woofer in the front, just Tweeter and Woofer in the rear doors. They don't pre-wire all options, if you have lowline you'll only have 1 pair going to the door (plus the wiring for all the other malarkey in the door). Evidence: First diagram: Lowline J503 is the Columbus, the speakers connect directly to it. Highline: J503 is the Columbus again, but this time the speakers are connected to J525 which is the "digital sound package control unit" i.e. the thingy under the seat. Each speaker has it's own pair from the amplifier.

It's all Greek to us here in the penal colonies.

Those bits on the A8 in SA where the middle lane is overtaking for both directions are terrifying.

They only offered the Kodiaq here in AU as TSI. There were a few older 2017 TDIs but were old stock and didn't have the virtual cockpit so I had to get a petrol instead. I wasn't really happy with the way it drove, coming from the CFFB 3T Superb (was remapped with Superchips (now bankrupt lol)) the CZPA petrol was slow to react and lacked any sense of urgency when asked. It would rev high when pressed but didn't seem to do a lot other than make noise. Late last year after I'd got 15,000km on the car I had the ECU remapped by a company called Exceltune here in Melbourne 'straya. It was the type of remap where they take out the car engine control module and hook it up on the bench. No opening of the ECU was required. Since then the engine output has certainly improved. Torque from 2000 RPM is way up and it has much more shove without having to rev like a Honda. It stays in 7th gear a lot more now on highways. Overtaking is much much improved. It is rougher when the engine is in panic mode (i.e. when you stab at the accelerator) but in normal driving is much more gentle surge of torque without being shouty (i.e. more like a diesel ) Fuel economy improvement is not noticeable compared to a diesel tune. On the latest run from Melbourne to Canberra and back, I averaged 7.2l/100km as opposed to 7.7-ish before the tune but simple wind direction or weather could explain that difference. This run is approx 6.5 hours at 110km/hr though rolling hills. My beloved CFFB diesel does the same run at 5.8 l/100km but doesn't have radar cruise control :( Boost is higher, I've seen peaks of 21PSI compared to it maxing out at about 14 before it was tuned. 20PSI+ for a standard cylinder head is a bit worrying but it seems to peak and then reign it back so it should be OK for longevity. I was under the impression that the CZPA had a smaller turbo than the similar engine in the Tiguan and didn't think it was able to achieve 21PSI. No codes logged since and no warning lights or faults have appeared. I've not tried the launch control since the tune but it's a DQ500 DSG so rated for 500Nm so the slightly-less-than 400Nm that in theory it puts out now should be fine. Water and oil temps did not increase at all. Cat temp also doesn't seem to be higher but I would only expect that when the extra is being used. I declined the offer to put it on the dyno post tune (it was extra cost and the car is a shopping trolley not a race car) so I'm not sure what it's actually putting out, but 170-ish kW and 400-ish Nm (from 2250 - 4000 RPM) is about what to expect based on the supplied generic dyno charts. So 2 months in I'm a lot happier and it's much nicer in urban and rural driving. They were also working on an awesome black Golf R that had $40k spent on it which was pushing insane power but it also sounded stupid (like a giant 2 stroke lawn mower). To pre-empt some questions: - No, insurance doesn't care here. No change to premium. - Yes, if Skoda can prove that the tune caused a failure they may choose to not provide warranty for that part(s) but cannot void the whole car warranty just on the basis of a tune. This is my third ECU tuned VW and so far the tunes have not caused any of the failures on these cars. - No, in Vic we don't have annual MOT or equivalent emissions testing - Cost was $AUD1,295 which is about three shillings Stirling on the current conversion rate. - No special requirement for fuel, stays at 95 octane or better (as per the owners manual) but I run 98 anyway (as Costco sells only 91 or 98 and their 98 is cheaper than branded stations 95).

There's no wiring for the other one either (I've had the boot lid cover off, only the side with the fog light has a wire to run it). You'd need to run a wire across to the new cluster (wouldn't be hard). The boot lid cover is a pain to get back on though.

I was comparing to my previous MT2013 3T Superb 2, which did use engine braking, but did not apply the brakes on descent. I guess it doesn't meet the definition of modern though, as it's based on the A5 platform that started at VAG circa 2004-ish. It is that behavior that would have been nice to be able to be selected on-demand. Having 3 options now though would mean they'd probably need to put the LIM/ACC button back on the cruise stalk (was taken away MY2019 when the Virtual Cockpit was introduced) to make mode selection faster (the menus on the screen are a bit slow). Within the sphere of NS Kodiaq (this forum), Cruise Control does not use the brakes. Active Cruise Control does. I don't think the speed limiter does (I've never used it), I think it just goes 'bong!'

I've sometimes wished that I could choose between ACC and normal CC as I don't need the car braking down hills on some roads. Even with the aggressiveness set to comfort it would have been nice to flip the active part off. Having said that, I'd still rather have ACC all the time rather than not at all.

The black round tube thing (2nd picture) pulls out, it's an outer tube on the trim that fits over an inner tube that's part of the plastic part screwed to the door. It's a bugger to get out and needs unreasonable force. A trim removal prybar will help here, or a huge flat screwdriver. Make sure you pull inline with the tube or it'll snap off. The long square tube things in the pictures 2 and 3 have the bent metal clips at the ends, again pry or pull with unreasonable force and they'll pop out. Putting it back in is very hard with 1 person, as you push one end and the other end pops back out. A 2nd person is a big help here. TL:DR Grit your teeth, close your eyes and yank

Apparently the M21's are getting the new key fobs that only respond to the radio if they've been in motion for the past 5 mins. This was introduced to stop the relay-attack. So I guess in that case you'd need to add a step of shake-car first I wonder how much wobbling is required.

Assuming you have climatronic (the full auto system), try a servo end-stop relearn. This process runs each air control servo to the ends to learn where they are. Hold down the AC and face-level vent button. The lights will flash alternately and all the vent flap servos will move and learn their end-stops. When the lights stop flashing, the process is complete. This video demonstrates it: Failing that, you'll need a scan with VAS or VCDS. I've previously had servo wiring fail (for the recirculate control, not the servo you're talking about) and got a message as below so VCDS might show you a failed servo or wiring: 9472881 - Motor for Fresh Air / Recirculated Air Flap B108B 71 [009] - Actuator stuck Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 9472882 - Motor for Fresh Air / Recirculated Air Flap B108B 54 [009] - Missing Calibration / Basic Setting Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 9476881 - Position Sensor for Fresh/Recirculated Flap Motor B109B 11 [008] - Short to Ground Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

I got a naff plastic cover for mine to prevent it opening the boot in my pocket. Works well.

This is a guess but: - Your passenger window is sticky or requires more torque to close - Therefore the pinch protection triggers every time - Therefore the remote close is disabled as the car thinks someone's arm is in it. - Then as the remote window close is disabled, the system never gets to the remote mirror fold step (it's after remote close) You can make it work by holding the up because: - This resets the pinch protection - This then re-enables the remote closing (until the it's disable again because the window is slow/sticky) - If the remote window closing succeeds, then the system proceeds to remote mirror fold. You might wish to address the sticky/slow window and it might resolve the other problems. I'm not sure where you'd start with that but someone will probably have some suggestions. It could be things like: - Poor wiring connection (poor connection = power loss = looks like motor torque high); failing door loom? - Window tracks obstructed or dirty (harder to close = motor torque high) - Window misaligned (AFAIK It's just glued into the moving bar thing inside the door and people have had it fall out before) = stiff = motor torque high

Might be poor keyfob reception. Where is the keyfob in this case? Is it surrounded by something metal or conductive? Did you put it in an aftermarket case (I've seen some chrome ones that would probably block the signal). You might want to change the keyfob battery (it's just a CR2032, don't buy a cheap one, get a brand name one like Maxell, Energizer or Panasonic and avoid ebay there are lots of fakes). The car will detect low keyfob battery and let you know but there are scenarios where the battery is low or faulty and the car might not detect it. It is possible to monitor keyfob signal strength using VCDS (Start authorisation module, measuring blocks) but given that you need to turn the Ign on to start monitoring, it's not going to be very useful in this case. What year is the vehicle? I understand that sometime in MY2020 they changed to a new generation of keyfobs that will only respond to the car if the fob has been in motion within the past 5 mins. This is to avoid the relay-attacks where someone can use a radio to relay the authorisation from the car to a key that might be say left near the door on the hall table. Don't forget the fallback, if the battery in the fob fails, use the fob to press the start button. This uses the legacy method of RFID instead of radio but needs to be very close, pretty much touching the start button to work.

Not directly heard of but no reason why it would be impossible to fail. Most of them are just basic thermistors. The cabin temperature sensor is behind the small 5mm-ish glossy circle in the clima control panel. It's possible to put the clima in diagnostic mode where the controls can select values to be read out on the media screen. I don't have a channel map for the Superb 2, only for the old A5 VWs. This would enable you to display a direct read-out of the cabin temp sensor (and other sensors). There are additional sensors in the intake plenum, and in each outlet (left centre and right high outlets, winscreen and left and right footwell outlets). There are two outside air sensors, one just behind the front bumper (don't think this one is used for clima, think it's for engine only) and one in the intake plenum (often combined with an pollution sensor). There is also a sunlight sensor just aft of the windscreen defrost vent outlet that can measure sunlight intensity to the left and right sides. These are all considered when selecting the airflow and heating/cooling settings so a failure of any could cause odd things to happen. VAS/VCDS would probably make the failure obvious.