maccy

Hmm,this is interesting as I have a problem with the passenger door lock on my 6Y5.The door will not unlock with the fob but will always lock.Interestingly you can hear the motor as if it is unlocking,and also feel it but it doesn’t open.It has to be unlocked using the internal handle.Any ideas anyone ?

So,decided yesterday to have a look at this problem as the weather has warmed up considerably, removed the belly plate and there it was,a broken wire on the brown plug,when I moved the wires to have a closer look the other wire fell off! Cut the wires off the other end of the connector plug and soldered in 2 short lengths of fresh wire,started car and it’s blowing cold within about 30 secs.Result! Thanks for the advice Wino and Jars

An update on this, I had the local mobile aircon man out today,he plugged his machine in and said straight away”it looks like there is plenty of gas pressure”.He then dis-connected the plugs from the compressor and pressure switches and plugged a hand held controller in.Switched it on and the aircon was cold straight away.He then did the same as me and checked the fuses, all OK.So I said I would look into the control problem myself and what do I owe you,he said just give me a drink and I can come back when it’s sorted to top up the gas.So I need the wisdom of this forum before I start digging.Has anyone had a control problem and what was the outcome ? Also are there any schematics available on the internet,or does anyone have one they can send me as the Haynes manual has zilch.Thank you in anticipation.

As we are on the topic of “paint codes”,does anyone know the code for the hubcap paint on a 2005 Fabia Estate please.

Hello all,I have a question for the team.If the pressure in the air conditioning circuit drops for any reason,is there a switch that stops the compressor running.My 2005,Fabia 6Y5 aircon has stopped working today,I have checked the fuses and they are fine.I have had the car for 5 years and the aircon has never been touched.Is there any recommended service period for it possibly ?Thanks in anticipation.

Don’t take it personally,he is an arse to everybody.

eBay item:271774912587. About £7

This interests me as my thermostat is only a few months old and the engine is very slow at warming up again.What are the tabs for as I have never seen them before,I am guessing they might be left over from the plastic moulding process maybe,or are they to keep the stat from moving ? The previous post mentions holding the thermostat,does this mean do they break off? Has anyone seen this and where do the tabs go to? Are metal thermostat housing available,as I have only seen plastic ones.

Couldn’t you simply connect it without removing the the two main terminals ? Just remove the nuts,fit connectors and refit the nuts ?

TPS Derby are the same.

I have found on the Skoda rear discs,it’s usually the old pad rusted up where it slides on the caliper and wears oddly plus usually overheats and you can smell it when you stop. Maccy.

The TPS near me in Derby has stopped selling to the public.Trade only so they said when I went in a few weeks ago for a small pipe bracket.

Is there a non-return valve on the servo pipe ? Is there any chance it could be on backwards ? That would make the brakes very poor indeed.

I have both lengths in my 1.9 Tdi.A couple had failed the first winter I had the car and I got two from a local supplier.When I took the old ones out I found that the new ones were a touch longer.Didn’t seem to make any difference when it was running.Which reminds me they haven’t been checked for a few years I will have to check them out now that the cold mornings are creeping on us.I still have no idea which are the correct ones.

The valve on top of the fuel filter is an option,although I always thought it was a pressure regulator.Another option is a non-return valve in the line into the filter head to stop fuel creeping back to the tank overnight,but that does not cure the base problem.Somewhere in the fuel system something is letting air into the pipe work which then lets fuel run back towards the tank creating a bubble of air in the lines.When you start after a long period of standing the car fires instantly with the fuel in the system,as soon as it starts it pulls the air in and misfires and splutters to keep going.A way to try to get around this maybe would be to turn the ignition on and off a few times to let the pump in the tank flush out the air.I personally would be looking at fitting new fuel pipe clips everywhere to stop any fuel run back.Good luck,let us know how you get on. PS.It won’t be a glow plug problem as it is too warm to even need them at the present time.

Aah,I see,so if the smoke level is below this is it a pass or is it the other way around?

Could you explain”plate value” this is new to me.

Looks like the fuel running back problem.

When mine went one of the thrusts was so worn one of them fell into the sump,(the one that is loaded when you put your foot on the clutch pedal) on its way to the sump it mangled the reluctor ring and bent the thrust double.I am not heavy on clutches so I can only assume that it was worn with a heavy clutch user before I had the car.If I can find it I will have a go at putting a picture of it on the forum.I can only assume that when the car went around a corner,centrifugal force pushed the crank over onto the unworn thrust and let the worn one slip out.Any more news Sebseb ?

Mine switched off totally on cornering only.If I remember correctly on left handers.

I don’t want to be the harbinger of doom,but my old Fabia with a 1.4Tdi engine had exactly the same thing and it took forever to find it.The car eventually stopped totally and had to be recovered.It turned out that the crankshaft thrust washers were so worn,the one nearest to the flywheel fell out and the crank moved away fromthe crank sensor.It had also damaged the reluctor ring.The garage that fixed it took the sump off,straightened the bent reluctor ring and fitted a new set of thrusts and the problem was sorted.It happened twice that the car stopped for no apparent reason and then just started again .You really need to check the end float on the crankshaft ASAP.The first time it happened I hadn’t had the car very long and I always wondered if that is why the car was so cheap to get rid of it.

My 1.9 Tdi did exactly the same from when I purchased it in 2014.Just recently changed the cambelt,tensioner,water pump etc.but also fitted a new thermostat.It is now great,a few minutes and it is up to 90deg.C as it should be.I noticed that the old thermostat had not got the O-ring that should fit around the periphery and was loose in its recess.My theory is that the stat was loose enough for coolant to flow past it constantly thus taking a long time to get to operating temperature.I have tested the old stat and it is working fine as far as my thermometer is telling me.

Mine look different to these,not absolutely sure but I reckon they need changing side to side,the offset on the spring should match the offset on the two levers I think. Maccy.