Tech-Yeti

My new Monte Carlo on order is Red and I love it. I had been in the motor business for over 40 years until I retired and know your concern about red, but with modern twin pack paints you needn't worry.

This is the old yeti brochure http://www.skoda-auto.com.ng/shared/SiteCollectionDocuments/models/yeti/en/yeti-catalogue.pdf This is the current yeti brochure so you can compare https://tools.skoda.co.uk/content/brochure/brochure_yeti.pdf

I have a little TomTom, I've had it all my life It's better than the normal one, my TomTom is my wife It gives me full instructions, especially how to drive "It's thirty miles an hour", it says, "You're doing thirty five" It tells me when to stop and start, and when to use the brake And tells me that it's never ever safe to overtake It tells me when a light is red and when it goes to green It seems to know instinctively, just when to intervene. I'm sure no other driver has so helpful, a device. For when we leave and lock the car, It still gives it's advice. Despite all these advantages and my tendency to scoff I do wish that once in a while, I could turn the F****** thing off!

"If only Carlsberg did car insurance"

I think they are all the same, you are now just a policy number and no more. I have just left my insurance company after 13 years without claim, they wouldn't budge on price either, so I switched, and next year I'll do it again if they try a fast move by saying I got a new customer discount.

If the steering wheel is not the same position as it came from the factory, then the tracking has been adjusted wrong, perhaps only on one wheel or perhaps something is bent. As a rule of thumb all FWD tracking is set at ZERO to 2 DEGREES OUT. If the garage could not find the correct value, they should not have carried out any adjustments.

They alter the injector timing and duration, in other words when it injects and how much.

My wife likes the new Ferrari, but she's not getting one either. After reading all posts, my advice is: Get rid of the wife and buy a YETI.

After checking out the sites mentioned, and looking at all available pics, it seems that some only have one cable with 2 ends that connect between the fuel rail and the OEM fuel rail plug. In this case how will it measure the "Turbo Boost Pressure", failing to do this may result in a pinking like noise at low revs caused by more fuel with less air, a sure way to block the DPF. If in doubt or cannot make up your mind as to which unit, REMAP, it may be more expensive and semi-permanent, but if you really want more power !!!

I have just filled up the tank again and checked the MPG, its 58.2 and that is no long trips, but I do live in the country not a city. What I have also done is replace the Racechip box with the dummy plug to set it back to STD ECU, I'm going to check the MPG and performance today cause I'm doing a 200 mile round trip and I'll post again tomorrow to see what difference the chipbox makes. I also agree that fuel is monitored during idle, I have stop/start so I can see on the maxidot, the benefit of shutting down in stationary traffic.

I had that problem on another car, but it was OK at higher revs. It was caused by the pressure sensor on the intercooler not being connected to the chipbox

I did a full to full mpg test in early sept and got 61.8, but this was a round trip on open roads with no urban at all, the maxidot recorded over 64 for that trip.

I have a Racechip fitted to my Greenline off of a Bluemotion Golf, easy to fit the 2 cables (1, on the fuel rail, 2, on the intercooler pressure sensor). I don't drive mine hard very often, its mainly for fuel economy, my maxidot is at present showing 62.7mpg as my average over the last 1247 miles. On the occations that I have needed extra power, it produced so much so quickly that I found myself speeding. I have now changed the settings on the box to slightly reduce the power (easy to do on a rotary dial), all this did was bring down the power with no loss of MPG. When I first fitted it, I could not find the pressure sensor plug, so I emailed Racechip for some advice, they replied within a couple of hours and sent me a video showing me how and where, even though I had not bought it from them.. As an ex VOSA tech I have seen many of these boxes fitted, and think they are all alike as long as they come with 2 cables and not just one that fits the fuel rail, because all this type does is increase fuel quantity. How to decided on which chip box company is best is simple, send all the companies the same technical question email (How many cables does the chipbox have and where are they fitted) and wait for their replies, see who bothers and does not.

http://www.superskod...lbs-system-KI-R http://www.benzinfabrik.de/de/led-tagfahrlicht/smd-led-tagfahrlicht-set-fuer-skoda-yeti/ Yes you do need to fit resistors as the LED bulb low current draw is flagged up by the canbus as a bulb out warning, they should be in the kit.

Have you looked at just changing the brake pads to a high performance compound, it would be a lot simpler. Google it, call the company and discuss what you want to acheive and I'm sure you will get a recommendation. Try: http://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/

Maxidot (multi function display) and MFD are the same thing. The rear lights are part of the obligatory lighting curcuit and are completely seperate from DRL's, you can only choose one or the other, not both, unless you have access to a VCDS.

Most hearterly agree, I have an Amundsen in my Greenline as well as a TomTom Go 730, there is no comparison, TomTom will always come out top. The TomTom maps are free if you know how to share them. You can change the operating system whenever you like. There are addon applications for offroad. You can make up your own POI sets If you find a wrong turn indicated, you can correct it and the TomTom remembers it It goes on and on

That should be fine, the time that the camera or sensors are on, should cause no overloading on that circuit.

From the circuit for either reverse lamp. The reverse lamps are normally permanently fed with 12v, and illuminate when the earth to that lamp is provided by the reverse lamp switch on the gearbox.

Hi Roblatus V3 and V4 have both got 7 digit postcodes, just to make sure, I just tested both by selecting "single flag", then select " town in GB", then type in the postcode My Amundsen is October 2011 and is software version of 0357

0.75 cable can take up to a 30w load with no problems.

Wipers are normally fed with a permanent feed and are controlled via relays and resistor circuit boards to obtain permanent, delayed and intermitent action.

There is no safety issue with connecting to the rear wiper circuit, the fuse is quite capable of running a camera as well, the only reason I would choose the rev lamp circuit is just that it would only be live whilst in reverse.

It is better to connect a rear view camera to the reverse lamp circuit, that way the camera will only work when in reverse. The camera will use very little amps so it should not need a upgrade of the fuse.

Too many posts by people that know nothing about engineering and are using information that is googled.