Monkhai

Physical buttons have texture which you can differentiate between on a button or across multiples or your position in a row. Plus individual buttons have individual telltale lights. A touch screen has no physical feedback as it’s all smooth. You HAVE to look away to find the button, press the button and then confirm the press. Regardless of the touchscreen point, VW messed up. For example front parking sensors are pressed when stationary, not in motion. why didn’t they put that on the touch screen instead? Why not have a single temperature wheel/multifunction wheel, then for dual zone the touchscreen can be done by the passenger? In the mk3, the low button placement wasn’t great, but this is worse. Why not at least add it to the MFD so things can be set via wheel button? As for hepatic feedback, that refers to vibrations which confirm actions such as the press of a button or your finger being over a button, not bringing up a hidden sub menu. The latter could be argued as more distracting. Even if we accept hepatic was almost there in cars... that’s not much consolation to those who almost didn’t die on the road because of a distracted driver. Sorry, but until it’s proven safe and there is minimal difference between common tasks whilst using both systems, then I think it should be banned along the mobile phone vein.

I think the German court judgements I linked too confirm it’s a bad idea. I can use a touch screen intuitively, as can SWMBO , but both think it’s dangerous whilst driving. Plus phones have hepatic feedback and cars don’t.

I had the same low dipped problem, which made driving country roads and night horrible. After multiple trips to the dealer and showing that another old car with halogen reflectors has better Dipped beans than mine with xenon lights. cue much messing around, checking and adjusting... Dealer stayed one of the dipped beams was set too high, so the other was being kept lower as the car thought beams were at max height. There were adjusted, and the lights levelled up properly for a good dipped beam. Now rather than seeing a few feet in front of you it is a good dipped beam. I don’t get flashed either, so confident to say it was fixed properly. Worth talking to the dealers again as I would imagine LED could suffer the same issue.

Immobiliser? Have you tried recoding the keys to the car? Also some cars have a fuel cut off device in the even of a forceful accident. Have you checked if the car has one and if it needs replacing or resetting?

So just to point out why the gu10 versions with no cover are dodgy.... There were batches where the high voltage was on the same pcb, with either HV or a chip that did the voltage conversion exposed to fingers. Others where the voltage was done on 5v drop to different segments and touching the wrong parts would give you a high voltage difference. Yes none of them should have been sold or made that way, but unlike real shops some of the online markets seem to not check what they sell etc.

Indeed I hadn’t noticed that particular one is a low voltage, but the gu10 versions like that are not and can be very dangerous.

The last ones can be quite dangerous without a cover as can be found online. Without a cover, some unsafe versions can leave you exposed to live high voltage.

The failing ones are around £5 per bulb up to 60 each for the hue. I would be of if the lasted 5 years or they didn’t change the housing design every year or so.

Fwiw nearly all my problems have been with one particular bug brand reputable manufacturer.

Probably easier to just get the whole filter housing tank assuming they’re not stupid money these days.

The gu10 have been good, sounds like a manufacturer quality issue to me so will contact them yet again.

I have to say I wouldn’t due to the weight. I would look at 312 as an option, but even on the standard setup I would consider EBC red stuff ceramic pads. Low dust, great stopping and lasted ages.

When you can be found guilty of the equivalent of using a “mobile phone” in Germany by using controls on an in car touchscreen and losing your appeal, some car manufacturers will pay attention. If by virtue of driving the car and using essential controls, you open yourself up to committing an offence , then popularity with consumers is likely to be reduced. Particularly in Germany I would think. When they start losing customers, then they’ll do something. That or if laws prevent them selling the cars.

So he hates the new display/controls and doesn’t seem particularly approving of the changes. It will be interesting to see what comes around for the next MY I think as currently it’s a no.

I’ve previously found Hue bulbs excellent although some of the drivers did seem to create a lot of radio interference. The failures have been mostly Phillips, Tp24 and a single Sylvania. I do find the GU10 have been more reliable than most. The bulbs are not dimmed, but are dimmable. This set are filament look led, the last lot were standard led. I’ll contact Phillips again as they replaced the last faulty bulbs. As they’re in a cluster it’s annoying as the bulbs seem to change look and are no longer available, necessitating changing of a number of bulbs when one goes pop.

I’m no expert but that bag looks ok to me. Either way I think the double walled design appears from pictures on here to have had fewer issues. That looks black which suggests oil. I would definitely be approaching the dealer and asking for a consideration due to Covid lockdown.

I've used LED bulbs for years now, as I really hated the CFL bulbs from years gone past. LED bulbs have never lived up to their long life claims of up to 25 years, but I swear they're getting worse. Quality brands (Genuine as directly from the manufacturer in some cases) seem to last at best 1 to 2 years before they start to flicker and have to be replaced. I don't mean a slight flicker either, I mean like an old Fluorescent tube, where the starter or ballast has gone. So does anyone else seem to think they're just expensive tat these days? Sure the price has come down, but they seem to last not much longer than an incandescent bulb, create radio interference and are infinately harder to recycle too.

Since the leaf uses electric to pump the brake fluid I would be a little bit careful as I seem to remember reading the higher DOT fluids might ignite more easily. (I could be wrong) I remember also hearing brake fluid services were more expensive on electric cars. Could be nothing, but I would say best to check first.

Or a split silica bag blocking something up.... so many possibilities sadly.

In that case do only what is listed as required on the service schedule in the car “handbook” and nothing more. Obviously you can do more like if you want to, but then you’re using your money, to increase the residual value of someone else’s depreciating asset. You’re already paying that depreciation in the lease charges, so why pay twice. The dealer is IMHO trying to make some money. As long as you change the pollen filter frequently enough and occasionally let off an AC cleaner in the car, it shouldn’t need anything. If it is leaking/faulty then the car is still in warranty. You’ll just hand it back at end of lease and if that is past the end of warranty, you’d do better to use the nearly £200 to buy the warranty extension.

Depends on the lease type.

Before you spend money, have you seen them on another car? I think they're underwhelming and you're probably best seeing the result in person to see if you think they're worth the time/money.

How many miles are on the car? Before you spend money on the solonoid, can you hear any squeaking/grumply noises from the cambelt end of the engine? If so you might want to consider just getting the belt, pully/tensioners and water pump changed as it could be due soon or the pully/tensioner could be on the way out (I believe some pully/tensioner revisions would start to fail early, although usually with a fairly obvious noise) Obviously you'll be best to check these with a suitably qualified mechanic with the correct equipment before doing anything.

Honestly, I think the dealer is being very reasonable here. You can do a lot worse than a full refund if you change the car with them and only £300 depreciation in approximately 6 months and go elsewhere. Personally unless you trust the trader, I would go elsewhere or at least carry out your own HPI check before any new car. EDIT: Ignore all of that, I see you managed to get a full refund, and I should have read to the end of the thread. Nicely done and to be honest with that being the case, I would say the dealer went beyond what they were obliged to do by law.

I got mine done last summer with the r134a refrigerant, but not at a main dealer. I personally would say if it’s not in the requirements, and it’s working I would be tempted to make sure the pollen filter has been done and set off an AC cleaning “bomb” and be done until much closer to the time. Best plan, ask the lease company as if they agree to pay then it’s their call.