Monkhai

Find a new dealer... many gear boxes have inspection holes and for those that don’t they can remove the starter to check the DMF. Neither of those are a £600 gearbox off job. Something else to note is that there was a number of people who reported an issue with one brand of clutch, where the release mechanism could fail in such a way that it would still work, but slowly that eat away and the housing from the inside if it occurred. Sure someone will chip in with a link.

Interesting that that looks like a fatigue failure. If it is, I wonder if they just can’t take the vibration or something else. wonder if there is a modified version.

No idea, I drive diesels, but unless you contaminate them with something in the fuel/oil etc, I would think a good while. Take it the exhaust doesn’t have any holes near either sensor that shouldn’t be there?

They look nice on a non-VRS estate in race blue...

I changed two in quick succession pre and post on a car around 100k. They’re not too expensive from the after market suppliers.

Well we shall see, the printer crashes to the point it needs the power pulled and it’s only managed 5 pages.. warranty call is in, but nothing as yet. going back to the supplying company today, if not fixed by the end of the week they can have it back.

For an extra £50 I would go main dealer unless you totally trust your garage as people have been known to do them wrong.

I sure as hell wouldn’t drill the cat unless you want a big bill. Are you using any fuel additives and have you checked the wiring? If it is faulty,then you’ll probably see fuel economy improvements to pay it back quickly. Also I assume coils etc have been checked too.

Rest assured, you’re not the only one! Maybe the belts degrade more rapidly in the vicinity of English, Welsh, Scottish or N Irish accents 😂

The clutch is thicker than the one you replaced, which may have a bearing.

Depends which country. I believe most say inspect and the U.K. says otherwise. guess it’s down to the importer.

I admit it’s all antidotal or low production engines where I see anything. edit: the which would you prefer question still applies.

Can't add anything hugely useful here, bare the obvious question about bleeding the master and slave cylinders on the clutch when you changed it? I assume the clutch cylinder located at the clutch end was tested and good ro replaced too?

I did the first one at 10k... Personally, I would ask this question, which is what would you rather have buying second hand: - 1 change at 1000 miles and the next at 19,000 miles - 1 change at circa 10000 miles and the next at 20,000 miles a year later? As you're on the two year fixed servicing, I would suggest just wait for the 10,000/1 year service. If that's not where you want to go, perhaps consider if it's worth running the car for 3 months or say 5000/6000 miles and then changing it then. Don't forget that modern manufacturing leaves much less debris and I believe the engines are usually bench run anyway, before being drained, fitted and correctly filled.

Personally I go with the first one almost certainly but after that it depends on the value of the car, the condition of the first belt and the mileage. That 5 years doesn't appear in some other countries, so there's probably some room. Obviously as said above though, it's a risk, but if the car is worth very little at belt change two and you're well under mileage, you have to decide how you personally feel and cost vs return etc.

Have the guest network, but a common printer albeit with a vlan. However it is a weak point and dmz is approximately the solution I created, but I can see a replacement printer In the not too distant future. Kyocera just seem to ignore any questions you put to them and are clearly not set up for this sort of thing.

RDE step1 = RDE1. As for what he first year tax is, depending on the emissions and value of the car I have seen some significant numbers.

On the Octavia you can go into air con config and set the low medium and high settings for the AC. In very hot weather high makes quite a difference. edit: The video just looks like the Climatronic flaps are just changing the direction of airflow in reaction to conditions. put the system temperature to LO, make sure you select the vents from the air flow and that the fan is on max (Speed should be automatically set to max with temp to lo). Does it drop off then?

Is it at a particular rev range or at any point? You say no fault codes are stored, but is the car going into limp home mode or just dropping then surging?

Don’t be certain is was a duff Duracell. Plenty of online marketplace sellers sell knock off batteries of major brands. I had a set of “Panasonic” batteries that looked to be very cheap, first one worked for a short while rest were dead. On closer inspection the printing on the packet seemed a tiny bit blurred, so I assumed they’re fakes and they got binned. There are a lot of poor quality batteries that are branded with a big brand logo and flogged as the genuine article when they are not.

Here, a server which is externally connected and a few ssh systems on v4 and v6. It will of course be firewalled and any internal wireless disabled. If I wanted WiFi direct , then that would be gone. The external wireless will have to be double checked to make sure it’s properly locked down and likely upgraded to wpa3 when available (hopefully as a software update rather than new APs). Corporate network wise, some guests need to be granted printing rights, which means they’re very exposed. On all networks it means security patching on anything that can see the printer is even more important as a non root vulnerability there is still more than enough to own the printer. Having seen how easily printers can and have been used to monitor internal comms, I just think it’s **** poor.

I would suggest that the seal dried out during lockdown or that water was in the system and has made a mess of the metal in the system. did they recheck the gas pressure?

That's their line and from a functionality point of view no. If it was a USB printer I wouldn't care. As it's network enabled, then security holes in the SSH/webserver or any of the other protocols need to be easily patchable to maintain network security. Everyone else it's varying degrees of easy, but this lot claim it's an on site engineer.

Certainly a fan of brother, I am just selling on my old MFC-L8520dn which is a tank of a mono MFP. If I didn't need colour there would certainly be no need to replace it and it's been going for years. I like the brother machines, but sadly the current generation 8900/8690 are sufficiently large you have to add the cost of a new table into them. The nice thing about the kyocera is the very long life of these parts as they're ceramic, but also the fact that the toner is just a tub of toner and not all the gubbins that are built in. This makes for a very low cost per page and low environmental impact. Sadly the firmware issues above/in my other thread means they're mostly useless until that is fixed. Xerox - Some are excellent, some models less so, but there are plenty of reports of things not working and support is very variable. HP - Usually reliable, not too expensive to buy, but the toner costs are painful and as above the generics can be booted out pretty quickly with a firmware update.

Well no feedback from the Forum, but a call to their customer services line was greeted by the service desk person explaining how difficult it was and that it needed and engineer to come on site to update it. Not sure how that will fit in with network security, but frankly it means even if I do lock this one down and live with it, they won't be appearing anywhere I work/recommend if I have any say in the matter.