Austin 7

Hi putt All three things are abnormal. No 1 Suggests that the haldex is not allowing the rear wheel drive to activate. It should do this very promptly, i.e. after less than 1 revolution of a slipping front wheel. No 2 Suggests a problem with the glow plugs and/or their controller. The light should go off very quickly in normal weather, after 5 or 10 seconds when cold, i.e. below about 5 degrees C No 3 Suggests that the fans/fan controller are getting an incorrect temperature reading. Just a thought, No 2 could be due to a faulty temperature sensor, i.e. the glow plug system "thinks" it's very cold. Paradoxically, the fan system seems to "think" its very hot. These things might be connected, or it could be just coincidence. Do you have any comeback with the seller ?

This "big mph" question has popped up frequently on the forum over the years. If I'm driving, I much prefer an analogue presentation which quickly answers the question "am I going faster than X". Even in your lower peripheral vision, you can be aware of the angle of the speedo needle. My father's Citroen only has a "big digit" speedo display (in the car centre, out of the line of vision) which you glance at, then have to work out in your head whether the speed is too fast. I find this much more cumbersome. It also means that passengers can easily see the speed, which isn't always a benefit.... If I occasionally want an accurate speed, I can look at the satnav display. I note that even in modern "glass cockpit" aircraft displays, there are often synthesised analogue needles on scales for easy reading of critical functions at a glance. So I don't really understand why people in the UK want a big display of MPH on their Yetis, especially if it's no more accurate than the analogue speedo. ( i.e. not very) Over to you, "big milers".

Hi Lico It is normal for the pedal to become higher and firmer with the engine stopped, especially if you pump it a few times. This is due to the action of the vacuum servo, which only works when the engine is running. Pumping releases the reserve vacuum. If you keep your foot on the pedal after starting, you may feel it drop down a little as the vacuum is restored. I suspect that with limited pedal travel, the microswitch that tells the gearbox that the footbrake is applied for starting (safety feature) is not quite being activated. I don't think either of these effects are anything to do with your problem. It would be worth checking the vacuum hoses, non return valves etc which go to the servo anyway. The handbrake self adjust mechanisms are within the rear calipers, and normally reliable. They gradually unscrew to take up rear pad wear, and are reset when you change rear pads. Not really something that would change from one day to the next. If careful replacement of the fluid and bleeding doesn't solve the problem, I would suspect a problem with the master cylinder. The only other possibility I can think of is that a worn wheel bearing or disc irregularity/runout (usually at the front) is slightly "knocking back" the caliper pistons, so that the first time you use the brakes after a long drive the pedal travel is longer. If you use them again soon after, they are normally OK. However, this doesn't quite fit with your description.

Hi davegsm82 I own a 2012 1.4 TSi with the CAXA engine, which is shared with Golfs and other VAG cars. I know that the gearbox and ratios are the same as the 1.2. I also know that the rear brake discs are larger in diameter, which might have insurance implications for a "modified vehicle". The exhaust has twin tail pipes but that's probably just window dressing. I have a horrible feeling that what on the face of it should be a straightforward job might be scuppered by some detail difference known only to VAG. You would certainly need all the ancillaries including the first part of the exhaust system and the ECU. Nothing is impossible, but it could burn up a lot of time and be uneconomic.

Hi walshyg This could be a problem with the antennas (aerials) rather than the Bolero itself. On FM it uses both the roof mounted rod AND the heated rear windscreen. It can rapidly and seamlessly switch between them to choose the best signal and avoid dropouts, a scheme called diversity. I don't know which one is labelled Ant 1 and Ant 2, but suggest you check by unscrewing the roof rod. If reception stops completely and it says Ant 1 no signal and Ant 2 no signal then its the heated screen aerial (or its cabling) that has a problem. If reception doesn't change and it continues to say Ant 1 no signal, then the problem is with the roof rod (water ingress ?) or its cabling.

Hi tintinandcharlie My 2WD Yeti (9 years old, 60000 miles) has always shown remarkably even tyre wear across the width of the treads, both front and rear. It has never been realigned since it left the factory. So I would say no, it isn't to be expected and a 4 wheel laser check by someone who knows what they are doing would be a good idea. Of course, if you regularly take roundabouts in an enthusiastic manner you may still get a bit of outer shoulder wear on the nearside front and rear.

Hi This is a reminder that Glow Plugs are no longer used just for cold weather starting, but are also used even when the engine is running as part of the (ever more complicated) emissions control system.

Hi Yetski Almost certainly a piston ring/bore issue, more information as to the remedial work if you search on this forum. Be aware that the burnt oil in the exhaust gas is also likely to have had a damaging effect on the catalyst. I'd suggest an independent VAG specialist as the best compromise between knowledge/skill level and cost. Also suggest you get a written quote first, as the final bill could be more than a 10 year old Yeti is worth. Sorry to be bearer of bad tidings.

Hi My understanding of the diesel throttle is that it is used under certain engine running conditions to partly restrict intake air flow, which encourages recirculated exhaust gas flow to the intake manifold. Diesels had no need of a throttle before the days of EGR systems. Engine power is determined (as it always was) by the amount of fuel injected. As long as there is enough (or more than enough) oxygen in the incoming air to burn it completely, then all is well. A secondary use of the throttle is to briefly cut off intake air at the moment the engine is switched off, to give a clean stop without shudder.

Hi Was that the rear bushes of the front wishbones, or the bushes of the rear wishbones ?

Hi I confess that I hadn't even heard of an oil separator for the 1.2 Tsi, and don't remember it figuring in the discussions on this forum over the years. It is a pretty simple piece of kit that ought to last for years. This video covers the one for the 2 litre engine, but it will be similar: I agree that there could well be an underlying issue with the PCV system which is stressing it. Maybe a blockage or faulty hose somewhere causing more pressure than the seal can cope with ? It seems a bit short-sighted of the dealer to just keep replacing a part like this without finding the cause. Hopefully their stock of spares isn't from a faulty batch. Your dealer ought to check the crankcase for excess pressure caused by too much piston ring blow-by, but let's hope that isn't the issue.

Hi yeti99 I think we need to know a bit more about your car. "My skoda" isn't much to go on.

Just a thought, at risk of stating the obvious: If you have a broken wire in a loom, then its replacement doesn't have to be minimised in length. As long as you join the source to the destination with a new piece of wire with appropriate cross section, it will work OK. So splicing in can be done some distance either side of the break, at a place where the loom is easier to get at. The original broken section of wire is left in place but disconnected.

Hi To my eyes the pins look tarnished, i.e. it hasn't dropped off recently. I suspect it's a case of the wiring loom having provision for all variants and markets, and whatever it's designed to connect to wasn't fitted to your car.

I wasn't suggesting anyone buy the Ebay loom, merely that it points to the original loom using all white wiring. One has to ask why wires are colour coded in looms. I guess the primary reason is to allow easy faultfinding and repair of individual wires, which a dealer would no doubt do if presented with a fault in the main loom. No-one in their right mind would attempt to change the loom in those circumstances. The tailgate is perhaps a different case, and I wouldn't mind betting that the "official" advice is to just change the lot. With garage labour rates as they are, that would be the most cost effective route. Old skinflints like me would of course find a way to splice in some repair wires. As to why the wires split and then fatigue apart after a few years, I wonder if it's just a case of new designers regularly being absorbed into the industry, and experienced ones retiring. There seems to be no mechanism for that experience to be transferred, so we see silly mistakes cropping up which experienced eyes could have predicted. The Yeti heated seats are an example, with the heating element carried up and round the side bolster on the seat cushion where everyone kneels to get something out of the car. The result is that sooner or later that's where a high proportion of them fail. I had a water pump fail in an Audi A3, the plastic impeller split. Water pumps always used to have metal impellers, but plastic was someone's bright idea. They are back to metal again now, but for how long ??

Well, there's a secondhand one on ebay at the moment from a German seller that appears to have a lot of white wires. Item 363178350186.

Hi I suspect it is original, presumably Skoda outsource to multiple suppliers and as long as the connectors are wired to the relevant pins they don't care about colours. Modern automotive wiring uses "thinwall" insulation which cuts down on size/weight and allows better heat dissipation (= higher current rating especially in the thinner sizes). The downside is that harder PVC is used to restore the strength against chafing, which makes it less suited to repeated flexing. You may have been unlucky with harder than usual cables, or may have used the tailgate a lot in sub-zero weather. The cable environment is dry, so any tarnishing might take many months. Anyway, glad you got it sorted and by publicising on the forum it may help other people with a similar issue.

Hi. The tyre related noise is a puzzle. I agree that "Loaded the Tyre" actually means "Affixed a balance weight to the wheel". The left rear wheel has more weight on it when turning right at speed, so conceivably if there was a very small clearance between a protruding balance weight and something static (like a brake backplate) then a slight distortion could take up that clearance and result in touching. But I must confess that seems a bit unlikely. You would expect to see shiny marks left on the bits that touched. I think the new noise is something different, unless you can remember noises and assure us it sounds exacly the same. I agree that a CV joint is the most likely suspect. A CV joint only needs a tiny bit of wear/play to exhibit knocking noises. Not enough to see or feel by hand when up on the ramps. The standard test is to drive round in an empty car park on full lock with power applied and listen. At low speed there will be no weight transfer from side to side as in the situation above. Clearly, if it is starting to wear and you do nothing it will just keep wearing till it is completely knackered and there IS detectable play.

Hi WillieRP Those motor brushes look big enough to last about 30 years and are unlikely to be the issue if the motor is misbehaving. If you have multiple electrical faults in the tailgate then as you say, it's highly likely to be a problem with the loom where it bridges the hinge, especially any earth connection which will be common to several items. You could try rigging up a temporary earth wire between the metal of the tailgate and the bodywork of the car, and see if the faults clear.

Hi Jokkmokk This behaviour is normal for the 1.4 TSi. Under certain conditions of engine temperature, outside temperature and humidity, the engine management software uses a special mode to rapidly heat the exhaust catalyst. The idle speed is raised and the valve timing is altered, which gives the unusual exhaust note. In theory you can still drive off and use the car normally, but I find it is best to keep the engine below 2000 RPM to begin with or it becomes jerky. The alternative is to wait for a minute and play with the radio and seat settings, once the revs drop to normal you can move off. I mostly notice this behaviour when the car has been used in the morning and then left for a few hours. If I start up to go out in the afternoon when it is "half warm", I get fast idle mode.

Hi oldstan A 2011 1.2 will have a chain driven cam. I think the water pump is driven from the poly-vee belt. You should be able to see this, it's not enclosed. There is also an electrically driven auxiliary water pump somewhere, which can run even when the engine isn't turning.

Hi This has all the hallmarks of the 12 volt supply to the car electronics being momentarily interrupted or dropping below a threshold voltage when you attempt to draw current. As suggested, the first thing to check is the integrity of the battery connections and cables. I recommend that the battery terminal posts and the inside of the clamps should be wire brushed clean, then a very THIN smear of vaseline applied before tightening. Faulty/loose high current connections can behave rather oddly sometimes, with vibration or even surges of current making them come and go seemingly at random. The second thing to check is the health of the battery itself, which any competent garage should be able to do cheaply. However, in my experience batteries are either OK or consistently poor rather than intermittent.

Do you have a phone in the car trying to pair with the infotainment system ?

Hi Scott If I understand correctly, everything works except that the GPS position is stuck. The most likely cause is that the GPS antenna (within the multiple antenna assembly) or its cabling are faulty, so you are getting no satellite reception at all. Various people on this forum have reported antenna failure, usually due to water ingress. So I think that replacing the antenna (and having a check of the various connectors whilst you are at it) is the most logical next step. The GPS only uses a single roof-mounted antenna, i.e. there is no fancy multiple antenna switching / diversity setup as used on FM. The GPS antenna has a tiny pre-amplifier immediatly next to it, which has a low power DC feed.

Hi The main water pump is mechanically driven by the timing belt and is the one that's often replaced at the same time as the belt. It only runs when the engine is running. The auxiliary water pump is electrically driven, so that if the engine is quite hot the coolant can still be circulated for a while after the engine has stopped. I suspect that it can also be switched on automatically to boost circulation if the coolant is especially hot and the engine is running but not very fast, e.g. idling in traffic. IF it is the auxiliary water pump making the noise, it suggests that something has failed and is causing internal rubbing, or some foreign object in the coolant has come to rest inside it.