mroberts

Yeah Mine has one broken one, need a thread remover to get it out. Good luck and safe when getting the car up high enough to refit it properly. I would say its definitely worth re-fitting it, mine is covered in scrapes and chips where stuff has hit it rather then the engine.

I just has a Toyota Auris 1.6 Auto for a hire car. It has a CVT. OMG totally hated it compared to my DSG. I like and most would probably agree that having the changes is kinda part of driving. I do 15-20k a year so have to be happy in my motor. CVT doesnt seam to provide any feed back at all, and quite often leaving junctions was screaming itself to death high in the rev range, where as a DSG would have changed up and up and the take off from the line would have been and felt soo much smoother and even safer at times. Saying that i absolutely love my DSG, works great on my PD right foot planted and just point the front end where you want it to go and hold on for the ride.

The undertray is secured using T15 & T25 Torx Screws. T15 on the sides and 4x T25 on the rear for future reference. It protects the gubbins on the bottom of the engine, prevents stones and debris from hitting the sump and anything else inside the lower engine bay lots of pipework electricals etc etc. It also smoothes out airflow under the front of the car. it prevents a certain amount water and salt at this time of year getting on all the gubbins. It also has sound deadening design on the upper surface. But i feel your pain, when you drop tools the always end up on it, and without raising the car a bit its difficult to reach all the screws as octys are quite low body wise.

Talking of which where is the flipping oil cooler on a MK II TDI PD? ive seen aftermarket ones but i assume the octy has one somewhere? its not in the bumper or Rad stack so where is it hidden? or where should an aftermarket one be placed? It has to be a good thing to have one im sure?

Absolutely agree, My MK II 140 TDI PD has pipework i could have made better with toilet roll tubes, fits badly rattles abit and must leak a huge volume of air before it gets close to the MAF. So i was thinking the same, get rid of the silly scoop in the top member and get a decent sealed unit for getting the air in without losing half of it, therefore making the turbo work less than having to suck in the replacement extra air thats being lost in the intial section of the intake system. One other thing ive notced, is that as i killed my 2005 Intercooler (there is a tread about replacing it) and replaced it with a 2009 (version which is a different design) my car has a definite increase in torque and is definitely pulling a whole load stronger and smoother. I would have loved a full alloy IC but cant spend £450 on one and i doubt there will ever be a second hand one on the market.

Im thinking yes you are probably right, but in the old days people said you didnt get the same MPG with Auto's. I just wonder if you should get better wear with DSG as smoother changes, more ECU controlled Traction control etc etc as its all linked in with the DSG system. In the weather here in Brizzle when its been -2 to + 5 my goodyear Efficeint Grip Performance's have been slippy slidy on the damp cold roundabouts and junctions even with 6mm of tread left, so basically thinking the next set will be all season once i have decifered which ones of course as there seem to be a fair few popular choices on here.

As always great advice. Trolley jack definitely required to get the car up on stands. seems modern stands are just too tall to be sensibly fitted under car using the widowmaker. the car is also quite low as standard so more cash but better safer life is the way to go. seeing as i have no plans to change the motor as its only done 110k and excellent and sound body work i will be buggering around with it for ages yet so a bit of investment in tools and equipment is well worth it. Ive already increased my tool box quite alot after doing EGR & cooler delete and Intercooler replacement. soon its brake tools to do the back discs n pads.

I only need to use an extra inch or so for getting the car high enough to get the stands under the suspension supports.. So only initial jacking then it's sat on 2ton stands so safe enough. I'm An engineer so bit anal about safety. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anybody able to comment if all seasons last as long on a DSG as opposed to manual. Should they have the same wear rate? 55k good for 3 1/2 sets of fronts of normal summer tires? As next set i'm thinking all season for the first time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

best advice as well as posting is get searching on here, ive picked up loads of interesting stuff and help from here. maybe you will be able to get your mind restful and get buying.

I have a 2005 (55) 2.0 TDI 140BHP PD with DSG. (BKD Engine) Not heardabout any oil pump failures but then again havent looked either (maybe ingnorance is bliss or a ticking time bomb) i have up until my ownership full skoda SH no issues with the Oil Pump and ive just done 110K. My biggest issues for me so far are the EGR / Sticky turbo vanes - sorted myself doing a EGR & cooler delete and turbo clean (less than £150) and bursting my intercooler soon afterwards, which i put down to the turbo actually working properly and providing the correct amount of boost, and a dodgy non-oem intercooler which was put on after a front end crash rebuild. Again i replaced myself. I absolutely love the car. drives well, gives good MPG. only iwsh i had Cruise but i know that can be done for like £150 by people on here. My car or rather maybe my driving does mean i eat tires like a full set every 12-18 Months (or i havent picked the most suitable tires for the car) i currently have Goodyear Efficent Grip Performance fitted. i think mine is still worth around 3k to about 2k depreciation after adding 60K to it and a few bumps lol I dont know if thats helpful or not but hey thats what these forums are for peopels opinions.

mine does the same, the lip on the front bumper is for ever touching the down side of even standard speed bumps. i have been considering a superskoda splitter but think it will just get trashed.

I love my DSG. I drive manuals for hire cars from work but much much prefer my DSG. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

skodaparts.com is great with fast delivery etc and good prices also eurocarparts again good prices and delivery and service there is also superskoda.com for enhancements that are rather nice if you have money burning a hole in your pockets and maybe darkside developments.

volks page is great. just got the DSG and BKD Engine guides. most exellent. just wish the whole page was in english. I find the workshop manuals page bl**dy hard to navigate and find anything.

i have warm enough air quite quickly in my PD. a few mins and its good enough to drive. thanks to this thread ive put the A/C on as i dont normally and re-circ and this morning it was damp n cold but cleared much better with the A/C etc. its been cold and damp all day in brizzle and i hope when i get to car it will be nice n quick this eve to warm up. i only do 4 -5 miles each way to work and it just about hits 90 Deg by the time i get to work in constant traffic. a good blast between roundabouts helps too. Cold denser air makes my Octy feel a hell of alot more torquey too, unless that 2009 IC is that much better than the 2004 IC i used to have on it lol

Have to say that looking at REVO is expensive ! at least £50 notes more than my garage recommended tuner down here in Brizzle.http://avontuning.co.uk/ Especially as you then need to add a similar amount for the DSG tuning. could be near £550/£600 for both stage 1 and DSG.

Cooper Tyres are the new owners of Avon. an american company been around for 110 years and deffo not bad. ive used Avons both before and afterwards and always found them to be good tyres. Im sure you would get used to a DSG, when you say pulls you into a roundabout, it does, kinda encourages you to go in a bit faster than you would in a manual i guess but you get used to it. The rest just sounds p1ss poor salesmanship when the car isnt prepped properly, and not fully as described.

Sounds just like mine was doing in the summer. easy as there is a huge amount of help here and other VAG forums. dump the EGR and its cooler, Innotec Turbo clean kit, problem solved, awkward but not technically challenging and can easily be done for lesst than £150 and a few hours over a weekend, + removal of the EGR from the computer System.

I have a DSG octy and if its proper bad like a few years ago, steep inclines and drops were no issue at all, and even without having to crawl. stick the thing in drive let the massive amount of torque created by the car at idle just pull you along no probs at all even on country lanes etc even with summer tyres. But i did notice this morning that my Goodyear Efficent Grip Perfomance's are struggling when its cold (below 5deg) in the wet when going round roundabouts.

I might not have a VRS (I wish) but my slightly older 2005 has a DSG. I love it. Sport mode is great, even Drive is good in my 140 PD. i had a auto Saab 95 2.3t 170BHP Auto before and that was harsh as hell and no where near as good as my octy gear box. I personally like the Blue.

I saw that they hdo have a kit but on their website it looks as if it iis only for LH drive cars: http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Diverter_Valve_Relocation_Kit_for_Audi_VW_SEAT_and_Skoda_18T_150180_HP--product--156.html

How much is a DSG Re-map? i need to get my Engine re-mapped after deleting the EGR, so could go for a package deal if its worth it. not that i have ever driven it in manual mode, only ever D or Sport as i dont have flappy paddles on my Ambiente.

Castrol Edge All the way for me. 5W30 Fully Synthetic meets the VW specs. http://oilselector.castrol.com/c/uk/eng/recommendation/c1ae54e32ee5da136fb91f285aaef361/Skoda/Octavia-II-1Z-(2004-2013)/Octavia-II-2-0-TDI-(103-kW)-(2004-2010)

sounds like i was doing the right thing. So thanks folks for the confirmation. Happy Motoring Days