Hi Good old Soviet here,

Recently I needed two kits for my drivers side lock to fix it, as the key was becoming very stiff, and then the mechanism failed and the key would just turn without operating the Central locking.

I took the door card off to remove the lock, but the Haynes manual has this one wrong as there is no need to remove the door card. The lock on the MK1 Octavia LX is removed by just loosening the torx type screw on the edge of the door, which would be found covered by a small rubber grommet. (This should be remembered that there is not the need to remove the door card)

After removing the lock the two kits that I bought from local Skoda dealer for I seem to recall £1.99 for both worked fine, but there was a small problem that the casting ring on the barrel had broken away.

The kits did restore operation without the end of the broken barrel affecting operation but I am being the fussy person, who does not want it to fail again so I ordered the complete lock which took a week to arrive from Skoda at a cost of £18.04 and plus VAT.

This morning I am going to fit the lock, and I noticed that the internal mechanism is dry, with not grease and lubrication of any sort here.

I am thinking, it is not so strange that many people are having the problem with these locks if the quality control, is not trying to see lubrication.

I have now fitted this one, and I used a tube of 'copper ease' to put in to moving parts, as I don't need there to be trouble again.

Any Briskolian I would tell them to take out both locks of the MK1 and fill the barrel with copper ease, which is taking all of 5 minutes, but will save on future lock problems.

Soviet:thumbup:

Good info there but you're better off using a spray grease or just plain old tube grease packed in there instead of the Copper Slip. Grease is designed to help things move freely and add lubrication whereas Copperslip is a compound designed to prevent two non-moving components from seizing together before they need to be taken apart. I.e, a bearing needs grease whereas a steel bolt in an iron plate would need copperslip.

Good info there but you're better off using a spray grease or just plain old tube grease packed in there instead of the Copper Slip. Grease is designed to help things move freely and add lubrication whereas Copperslip is a compound designed to prevent two non-moving components from seizing together before they need to be taken apart. I.e, a bearing needs grease whereas a steel bolt in an iron plate would need copperslip.

Hi cloverleaf,

You have some good advice there, as I used the copper slip, because some one told me about it. You have explained the functions of the copper ease and spray/grease very well, and I may take the lock from the door again to add the grease to be safe with this.

Thank you as this information was very useful for me, as I have not used the copper ease before, but thought it would be good for the lock, but I now know the real use for this one.

Thank you so much for the good advice, and I can change this easily.

Regards

Soviet:thumbup::thumbup:

Another disadvantage with copperslip in the door lock, is thst when you put your keys in your pocket it transfers to your clothes and can be difficult to remove.

Another disadvantage with copperslip in the door lock, is thst when you put your keys in your pocket it transfers to your clothes and can be difficult to remove.

It's evil when on clothes, especially when you dont realise and wash stuff with SWMBO's best undies.

IIRC when my lock was replaced due to screw-drivering by a scroat (trying to get the windows to drop like on pre-mod locks) and it was tight, they simply WD40'd it.

I remember getting some of that copper grease stuff on my shirt and jeans once when doing the plugs in a Zetec engine.

The shirt and jeans had to be thrown out :eek::(

You do know that many modern locks are designed to be run dry and that in fact putting grease in can make them stick. This is because the pins will get stuck in the hardening grease and instead the lock is sent out dry but lubricated with dusted graphite.

Just a thought. Should you want this stuff locksmiths do sell it either as a powder or as a light spray oil which shouldn't bung up the lock but will add plenty of graphite to the cylinder.

:iagree: - alternatively you can make your own graphite powder with some sandpaper and replacement leads for a 2.0mm clutch pencil.

Another disadvantage with copperslip in the door lock, is thst when you put your keys in your pocket it transfers to your clothes and can be difficult to remove.

Hi Fordfan,

I will not need this to happen as it will cause problems with Mrs Soviet when she is doing the weekly laundry. This is another reason to change this.

Regards and Thanks

Soviet:thumbup:

It's evil when on clothes, especially when you dont realise and wash stuff with SWMBO's best undies.

IIRC when my lock was replaced due to screw-drivering by a scroat (trying to get the windows to drop like on pre-mod locks) and it was tight, they simply WD40'd it.

Hi Gadgetman,

I am beliving you when you are saying that this stuff is evil for the clothes. Lucky SWMBO to be having best undies, which must not be spoiled.

You also had a bad lock, but what is this screw-drivering by scroat? I don't get this one.

Nice to here from you again.

Soviet:thumbup:

I remember getting some of that copper grease stuff on my shirt and jeans once when doing the plugs in a Zetec engine.

The shirt and jeans had to be thrown out :eek::(

Hi Chickens eyebrow,

This copper thing seems to be the one to be avoided if it does this to clothes, and so I must remove this as soon as I have time to do.

Thank you.

Soviet:thumbup:

You do know that many modern locks are designed to be run dry and that in fact putting grease in can make them stick. This is because the pins will get stuck in the hardening grease and instead the lock is sent out dry but lubricated with dusted graphite.

Just a thought. Should you want this stuff locksmiths do sell it either as a powder or as a light spray oil which shouldn't bung up the lock but will add plenty of graphite to the cylinder.

Hi Cheezemonkhai,

This lock could be the one designed to be dry, but I do not think so, as so many Skoda owners with MK1 are getting the lock problem.

I have heard of this thing called Graphite grease, but this is a black one I think, and would dammage clothes with the key also.

I have not seen the spray for this, or a powder however, but maybe this has no colour?

Regards to you, and Thank you

Soviet:thumbup:

Hi Good old Soviet here,

Having had the old lock in all the pieces, the design is very basic here, and is not, what I believe you are calling, 'state of the art'.

And so to me it would seem, that Skoda should be using a grease, or the graphite one with no colour maybe.

Basically speaking here, the lock is just a sprug loaded paddle that is allowing the key to be turning both ways while engaging in the central locking switch.

The word I have now got for this is primative design.

Soviet,

Thank you for all the help my friends.

Hi Gadgetman,

I am beliving you when you are saying that this stuff is evil for the clothes. Lucky SWMBO to be having best undies, which must not be spoiled.

You also had a bad lock, but what is this screw-drivering by scroat? I don't get this one.

Nice to here from you again.

Soviet:thumbup:

LOL, it's very common on VAG locks (inc Ford Galaxy mk1 - why didnt ford deploy the newer locks which werent susceptible?).

Pre 53 platers had a flaw in their design, where the lock could be damaged in such a way that all the windows would drop and the car unlock. They tried it on my Mk1 53 plate which had the new locks. No entry, but a new lock needed along with handle and door repair at £200

Infact, had this happen twice. Second time got away with a lock, which was only about £30 fitted IIRC

NO NO NO, do NOT use grease inside barrel locks. The reason they come without it is that grease dries up, the little springs and tumbler pins are very lightweight and you end up with them sticking.

Result? Can't open the door.

This may not happen so quick on a clean new lock but happens regularly on old locks when someone greases them!

I use only PTFE/Teflon dry lube, similar to what cyclists use for dry chain lube, in locks. Grease is for the hinges, door straps and the door catch.

Greg.

Hi Good old Soviet here,

Recently I needed two kits for my drivers side lock to fix it, as the key was becoming very stiff, and then the mechanism failed and the key would just turn without operating the Central locking.

I took the door card off to remove the lock, but the Haynes manual has this one wrong as there is no need to remove the door card. The lock on the MK1 Octavia LX is removed by just loosening the torx type screw on the edge of the door, which would be found covered by a small rubber grommet. (This should be remembered that there is not the need to remove the door card)

After removing the lock the two kits that I bought from local Skoda dealer for I seem to recall £1.99 for both worked fine, but there was a small problem that the casting ring on the barrel had broken away.

The kits did restore operation without the end of the broken barrel affecting operation but I am being the fussy person, who does not want it to fail again so I ordered the complete lock which took a week to arrive from Skoda at a cost of £18.04 and plus VAT.

This morning I am going to fit the lock, and I noticed that the internal mechanism is dry, with not grease and lubrication of any sort here.

I am thinking, it is not so strange that many people are having the problem with these locks if the quality control, is not trying to see lubrication.

I have now fitted this one, and I used a tube of 'copper ease' to put in to moving parts, as I don't need there to be trouble again.

Any Briskolian I would tell them to take out both locks of the MK1 and fill the barrel with copper ease, which is taking all of 5 minutes, but will save on future lock problems.

Soviet:thumbup:

Hi Greg, This is most interesting what you are telling me here, and when the copper ease has been taken away, then I will get some of this PTFE/Teflon dry lube.

Thank you for putting me right on this one, but where am I likely to buy this from?

Soviet

A bike shop. If you have unknown junk in the locks blast it out with some spray solvent - eg carb cleaner or brake cleaner, let it dry, then fill it well with the runny PTFE/Teflon dry lube and work the key a few times. You should be good after that!

I have used light oil with PTFE in it before, but that's as far as I'll go as I have seen a steering lock that had to be smashed out, just because it was greased and the key no longer turned.....

Greg.

So my 03 plate VRS is susceptible to yobbos breaking in by hammering the door lock?? :-s More details of how they do this pleasssee

A bike shop. If you have unknown junk in the locks blast it out with some spray solvent - eg carb cleaner or brake cleaner, let it dry, then fill it well with the runny PTFE/Teflon dry lube and work the key a few times. You should be good after that!

I have used light oil with PTFE in it before, but that's as far as I'll go as I have seen a steering lock that had to be smashed out, just because it was greased and the key no longer turned.....

Greg.

The combination brake cleaner and PTFE/Teflon lube sounds interesting. Will try it on the tailgate locks on the family Skodas - both completely stuck now.

NO NO NO, do NOT use grease inside barrel locks. The reason they come without it is that grease dries up, the little springs and tumbler pins are very lightweight and you end up with them sticking.

Result? Can't open the door.

This may not happen so quick on a clean new lock but happens regularly on old locks when someone greases them!

I use only PTFE/Teflon dry lube, similar to what cyclists use for dry chain lube, in locks. Grease is for the hinges, door straps and the door catch.

Greg.

The Teflon/PTFE lube is another version of the Graphite lube I talk of but obviously using PTFE in place of the graphite for the same effect.

The point you raise about the grease drying out and sticking the pins is however exactly the one i was making.

So my 03 plate VRS is susceptible to yobbos breaking in by hammering the door lock?? :-s More details of how they do this pleasssee

I don't think anyone will publish this on a public forum as with this info you can get into too many cars.

Suffice to say your best bet is a delocking kit for the doors.

I don't think anyone will publish this on a public forum as with this info you can get into too many cars.

Suffice to say your best bet is a delocking kit for the doors.

At which point most of this discussion becomes academic.

Update: Following greg123's advice I attacked the completely stuck lock on my tailgate:

1) CRC Brakleen lavishly applied;

2) CRC Lock Oil Pro (haven't tried that one before, but label was reassuring).

I applied steady pressure on the key that suddenly moved! and now the lock is as good as new.

I'm a firm believer in CRC's chemical products - the classic CRC 556 (probably just the same stuff as the maybe more well-known WD40) has saved me many times in the future when rolling (or not rolling) in cars less reliable than my present one.

A bike shop. If you have unknown junk in the locks blast it out with some spray solvent - eg carb cleaner or brake cleaner, let it dry, then fill it well with the runny PTFE/Teflon dry lube and work the key a few times. You should be good after that!

I have used light oil with PTFE in it before, but that's as far as I'll go as I have seen a steering lock that had to be smashed out, just because it was greased and the key no longer turned.....

Greg.

Hi Greg,

Thank you for answering me with information on this one. I will now do as you suggest.

I hope this will then be perfect for the car in its life.

Regards

Soviet:thumbup::thumbup:

Update: Following greg123's advice I attacked the completely stuck lock on my tailgate:

1) CRC Brakleen lavishly applied;

2) CRC Lock Oil Pro (haven't tried that one before, but label was reassuring).

I applied steady pressure on the key that suddenly moved! and now the lock is as good as new.

I'm a firm believer in CRC's chemical products - the classic CRC 556 (probably just the same stuff as the maybe more well-known WD40) has saved me many times in the future when rolling (or not rolling) in cars less reliable than my present one.

Hi SwedishSkoda, How are you? nice to be speaking again.

I have used this one called WD50, and I am finding that it works fine at the start of things, and later when it drys, the problem is returning. Its is very good for freeing thing that may be stuck, but when it drys the problem will be worse again.

Regards to you.

Soviet:)