'Evening briskodians!

I'm currently keeping an eye on the fuel consumption, but everything's going pretty well!!!

Now the car drives correctly, with correct amount of power, I need to maintenance (aka replace) the brakes.

I own a Haynes, so I'm not asking for the procedure to follow, but...

Could you give me a hand on preparing the required tools to do so..?

At the moment, my list is :

- Jack stands

- Jack

- Wheel key

- A pair of pliers

After that, I know there will be a screw, but do know yet if it's an Allen key, or a Philips screwdriver. And that's only for the front part. :P

I need to check the manual for the back...

Can you give some of your lights on that please..?

By the way, I found a motor factor in the city center which does the same pricing as the UK web dealers, without the postage fees! ^^ That's why I'm working on replacing them!

Thanks in advance!

The front brakes are easy to change.

You will need a spanner and socket with rachet (13mm i think), some copper grease and some pliers or mole grips for easing the sliding pins back.

The biggest issue will be pushing back the caliper piston for which you will need something large like a pair of waterpump pliers. If you don't have this the only other option is to loosen the bleed nipple slightly which will allow it to go back. although this will mean you need to bleed the system up afterwards or have no brakes!

The sliding pins often seize so ease them back if they are like this and put a bit of copper grease on them!

As for the backs just see if they need changing first as they can last intergalactic mileages before they need changed as only about 20% of braking pressure goes to the back. If they look fine just check there is no seizure or fluid leaks from the cylinders by inspecting the sealing rubbers and pushing shoes side to side. If all is well tap the dust out the drum and put back on!!

i use a bigish G-clamp to push the piston back.

i use a bigish G-clamp to push the piston back.

Failing that, a Draper "ABS windback tool" for about £10 does the job just as well!

i use a bigish G-clamp to push the piston back.

...and of course a f-clamp works just as well (it has for me anyway)

Long time no see!!! ^^

I worked on my Felly this afternoon, and here is the report, and the questions, of course!

Following the Haynes manual, I had no problem at all to do the job...

But... While at it, I noticed that my outer CV gaiter (I think that the name of the part, you know the sort of cone/cylinder made of "rubber" which hold the grease...) was punctured on one side and was losing its grease slowly... I also notice a little "clong" sound, especially when I reach the end of the steering wheel (Which I try to avoid, as I know what the sound means...). :(

1 - Is it easy to replace this..? As I never did it before...

Also, I wasn't able to slacken the screw which retain the braking disks...

2 - Do you know a special technique to slacken those..? I tried to spray some WD40 on them (I took care to not spill some on the discs, as I didn't know for sure if I would be able to replace them), but no success.

And one more thing... Still I bought the car (start of April of this year), I have the brake light always ON, even while driving. In the manual, it says the braking liquid level is low, but I checked it and the level are OK, but the liquid looks dirty.

3 - Does this thing happened to someone there..? Am I right to think that my level switch float is dead..?

And one more thing... Still I bought the car (start of April of this year), I have the brake light always ON, even while driving. In the manual, it says the braking liquid level is low, but I checked it and the level are OK, but the liquid looks dirty.

3 - Does this thing happened to someone there..? Am I right to think that my level switch float is dead..?

If it's anything like mine it's very difficult to see through the brake fluid tank. I have found the best way is to rock the car side to side and look for the liquid wobbling. It's probably best topped up to "max" level to see if that keeps it happy.

I use the same technique, and the level is fine! Right between MIN and MAX!

But what about a default float (the sensor which is located on the "cork" of the tank)..? Could it be my only fault that light my dashboard light..?

I had to use a hammer and a screw driver to get the screw off the discs!

Just to let you know, as I didn't think about it first!

New discs and new pads fitted perfectly!

Really easy job to be done!

(1) You need to take the hub off to get to the CV joint to replace the gaiter, but it's well worth doing, because otherwise you finish up with a bill for a new driveshaft. From what you say, it needs doing soonest! Don't try and skimp with a "zip up kit, cos they only last a few months.

(3) I'd try cleaning the electrical contacts for the sensor, and, if the fluid looks dirty, it probably needs replacing! Also, if your brakes were well worn, that can cause the sensor to go off when you brake.